Any books or resources on trimming frameless (32mm) cabinets?

[xedos]

"Trim" to me includes simple profiles for joining the boxes and making transitions to the walls or the next box. Anything beyond the basic boxes is what I consider to be trim.

Thanks,

RMW

Don't think I mis-understood you at all.  I simply think you're not fully onboard the Euro train.  There are NO PROFILES for joining boxes, simple or otherwise.  The carcasses get screwed together and they're done.  The face / plane of the door or drawer front(s) simple continue in one plane - that's the transition. when you get to a corner or a end wall you use a profile filler (to match your door and continue the plane) that is scribed to the wall just like you would a framed stile. 

So, "trim" for you will be a profile filler and toekick that usually clips onto leveling legs - though practically no one installing euro will call that stuff "trim"  Tom's two pics show how ends are handled by 99% of Euro cabinet makers. 

here's one we did a few years back with , smoked glass uppers 3/4" end panels on the left with profiled fillers on the right scribed approx 1" wide.  Notice the wine cooler doors are flush / in plane with the cabinet door fronts.  pretty much the same as Tom's except it's lacquer and glass instead of veneer. 

2nd pic is an inside corner treatment.

 

[rmwarren]

"Trim" to me includes simple profiles for joining the boxes and making transitions to the walls or the next box. Anything beyond the basic boxes is what I consider to be trim.

Thanks,

RMW

Don't think I mis-understood you at all.  I simply think you're not fully onboard the Euro train.  There are NO PROFILES for joining boxes, simple or otherwise.  The carcasses get screwed together and they're done.  The face / plane of the door or drawer front(s) simple continue in one plane - that's the transition. when you get to a corner or a end wall you use a profile filler (to match your door and continue the plane) that is scribed to the wall just like you would a framed stile. 

So, "trim" for you will be a profile filler and toekick that usually clips onto leveling legs - though practically no one installing euro will call that stuff "trim"  Tom's two pics show how ends are handled by 99% of Euro cabinet makers. 

here's one we did a few years back with , smoked glass uppers 3/4" end panels on the left with profiled fillers on the right scribed approx 1" wide.  Notice the wine cooler doors are flush / in plane with the cabinet door fronts.  pretty much the same as Tom's except it's lacquer and glass instead of veneer. 

2nd pic is an inside corner treatment.

Then I must have misstated my question, read "trim" as the act of finishing and making transitions.

Thanks to everyone for the input and ideas. Rather than screwing the carcasses together in an unbroken line I'm leaning towards adding a filler similar to the base cabinets in the Keith Johnson video. Something to break up the continuous plane of doors/drawer fronts.

I do have one tricky transition to drywall where the boss wants to continue the material we are using for end panels/doors/drawers across a short section of wall (like paneling) to an outside corner, and her idea is to end the panel in line with the drywall corner and blend it in. I'll post a sketch later to make this more understandable, but to me this looks like a problem waiting for me to make it happen.

To be clear, this is a closet install, so there won't be any dead corners for lazy susan type solutions. It's a pretty simple "J" layout starting and ending in a finished panel, + a short section starting from a wall (inside corner) to the outside corner drywall mentioned above. The flat panel area would have a wall mirror, and perhaps hooks for belts, etc.

Again, thanks for all the input. I need to go back and digest everything, which will probably lead to some more questions.

RMW 

 

[tjbnwi]

This is how we assemble the fillers. The tall piece is probably a capitol.

New miter lock head, I see I have to adjust the shim stack.

Tom

 

[rmwarren]

This is how we assemble the fillers. The tall piece is probably a capitol.

New miter lock head, I see I have to adjust the shim stack.

Tom

Thanks Tom, that makes it easy to visualize. The nuance of making them deep enough to cover the toe kick is a great tip, Easy to overlook as a neophyte.

RMW

 

[tjbnwi]

You’re welcome.

Tom

 

[rmwarren]

Here's the area I'm most uncertain how to handle. (Ignore the wire shelving, they were tossed in there at the end of construction as "temporary" around 12 years ago..., I'm determined to have this looking good for the next owners.)  [tongue]

[attachimg=1]

We are discussing replacing the shelves with 2 tall built-ins, then extending the upper carcasses over the mirror to the drywall corner. SWMBO wants to panel the wall below the high cabinets with the same material, making the transition back to drywall exactly at the corner bead.

[attachimg=2]

I can see making a panel like Tom's fillers and then trying to scribe it to the drywall corner, but I'm skeptical I can pull this off without something looking wonky. I haven't checked yet to see if the wall is plumb, but framers...

My preference is to hold the panel back off the corner slightly, but I don't think that will look great either. Haven't wrapped my mind around how I finish off the upper cabinet in relation to the lower panel either, as that would end at the same corner. The easy thing might be a floor-to-ceiling end panel, but that corner is where we make the turn into the closet and I'm reluctant to have a panel stick out into the space.

I appreciate any thoughts on this.

RMW

 

[guybo]

Why not have a little Fun with 80/20 [big grin] or more fun

 

[4nthony]

Why not have a little Fun with 80/20 [big grin] or more fun

I was thinking something similar as well.

I really like the look of the Finn-Juhl panel walls. You could put a combination of cabinets and shelves. On the left side, open shelving could prevent the need to scribe any kind of filler piece. A mirror could be integrated into the panel as well. Alter the proportions to fit your space.
https://finnjuhl.com/collection/shelving-and-panel-systems/panel-system

 

[guybo]

thats nice and clean, on my short list is a domino kerf wall for keys and mail

 

[rmwarren]

Why not have a little Fun with 80/20 [big grin] or more fun

I see what you did there... [cool]

Seriously though, worth considering something like that. Thanks.

RMW

 

[woodferret]

That drywall corner I would replace with a tear away L-bead. https://www.trim-tex.com/products/tear-away-l-bead

Anytime wood meets plasterboard and a crisp even seam needs to be made - bead.  Very likely you'll need to float portions of the wall because a seam is somewhere up that vertical.

Example of a false beam cap I used to terminate a wall.  Your bookcase 'edge' would be narrow, but it might be nice to also give it more chunk and L-bend it around that actual structural corner and then L-bead into that.

[attachimg=1]

edit: there are also several architectural reveal and shadow bead varieties too that give larger gaps.  Usually you see them with modern baseboards.  They'll let you see the 'edge/back' of the wood vs the one I used.

 

[squall_line]

Why not have a little Fun with 80/20 [big grin] or more fun

I was thinking something similar as well.

I really like the look of the Finn-Juhl panel walls. You could put a combination of cabinets and shelves. On the left side, open shelving could prevent the need to scribe any kind of filler piece. A mirror could be integrated into the panel as well. Alter the proportions to fit your space.
https://finnjuhl.com/collection/shelving-and-panel-systems/panel-system

I like the cut of your jib, Anthony.

I'm looking at panel/rail systems for the basement entertainment area of our MCM ranch.  Vitsoe, Container Store, Menards hanging rails, custom built, etc.

Way too many of them call into the category of "if you have to ask, you can't afford it."  That's the price for period-correct, I suppose.  But since this place isn't even within spitting distance of a 7-digit price tag, there's no way I can justify dropping the kind of money Vitsoe and others would want.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Why not have a little Fun with 80/20 [big grin] or more fun

I was thinking something similar as well.

I really like the look of the Finn-Juhl panel walls. You could put a combination of cabinets and shelves. On the left side, open shelving could prevent the need to scribe any kind of filler piece. A mirror could be integrated into the panel as well. Alter the proportions to fit your space.
https://finnjuhl.com/collection/shelving-and-panel-systems/panel-system

Really like those shelves. Haven’t seen that profile on shelves before.

 

[tjbnwi]

Here's the area I'm most uncertain how to handle. (Ignore the wire shelving, they were tossed in there at the end of construction as "temporary" around 12 years ago..., I'm determined to have this looking good for the next owners.)  [tongue]

[attachimg=1]

We are discussing replacing the shelves with 2 tall built-ins, then extending the upper carcasses over the mirror to the drywall corner. SWMBO wants to panel the wall below the high cabinets with the same material, making the transition back to drywall exactly at the corner bead.

[attachimg=2]

I can see making a panel like Tom's fillers and then trying to scribe it to the drywall corner, but I'm skeptical I can pull this off without something looking wonky. I haven't checked yet to see if the wall is plumb, but framers...

My preference is to hold the panel back off the corner slightly, but I don't think that will look great either. Haven't wrapped my mind around how I finish off the upper cabinet in relation to the lower panel either, as that would end at the same corner. The easy thing might be a floor-to-ceiling end panel, but that corner is where we make the turn into the closet and I'm reluctant to have a panel stick out into the space.

I appreciate any thoughts on this.

RMW

At the door side, design/build the cabinets so they flush out with the door trim.

The hall side, from the corner come out a distance of 50% of the totals depth(if you post some dimensions I can calculate the distance) from the edge of this panel angle to the left. You can do this in one angle or an angle and a flat.

Something like below.

Tom