Any guidance on Domino cross stop usage?

[jcrowe1950]

Hi Folks,

    Just edge joining a couple of oak boards. I used the cross stops set on 200mm and the resulting mortises were just off enough to not allow connection....I will go re-drill them on one side but I'd really like to use this technique as I have lots of edge joining to do. Mind you, vast previous experience with edge joining boards but the Domino makes it so easy to make the faces flush. Any current advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[squall_line]

Here's an older thread with some good content:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/domino-cross-stop-problem/

The suggestions in that thread: 1) XL DF 700 manual has the cross-stop adjustment/calibration information in it, rather than the DF 500 manual.

2) Don't pull hard/tight against the previous mortise, as it may cause flexure in the cross stop.

And, of course, practice on scrap if you have any, just to get a better feel for it.

 

[usernumber1]

i spent a good amount of an hour calibrating mine. they are good for at least 1800mm on tight setting. about 7x 19mm dominos

also simple to make a quick excel calculator to tell you what spacing to use : if you have an length (x) and you want dominos of (z) size

 

[ChuckM]

Hi Folks,

    Just edge joining a couple of oak boards. I used the cross stops set on 200mm and the resulting mortises were just off enough to not allow connection....I will go re-drill them on one side but I'd really like to use this technique as I have lots of edge joining to do. Mind you, vast previous experience with edge joining boards but the Domino makes it so easy to make the faces flush. Any current advice would be greatly appreciated.

See rely #12 in this thread:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...s-and-improves-precision/msg639859/#msg639859

 

[Birdhunter]

Not sure why you would not use pencil marks and the narrow-wide mortise method. Fool proof. No calibration required. Works every time.

 

[ChuckM]

Pencil lines work well. I use the cross stop only when I have a batch of panel glue-ups to do because it's faster, and most importantly, I have practically no pencil lines to remove.

 

[jcrowe1950]

Not sure why you would not use pencil marks and the narrow-wide mortise method. Fool proof. No calibration required. Works every time.

First off, thanks for all the thoughtful replies. BH, in direct reply to your query, the cross-stops were included in my D500 kit and IMO, they should be useful or not included. I am fully cognizant of my lack of experience with this accessory and actually chaulk it up to user error. That said, I think with practice that I can master this process. Of course I use pencil lines and narrow/wide process all the time but I also like to master the esoteric applications. Festool has a video showing the process and if they can master it, so can I..... [big grin]

 

[ChuckM]

jcrowe,

For a video version of the cross stop procedures which I laid out in reply #12 of the quoted thread, watch the Live Episode 61, starting from 19:00.

I believe this is the first time a video from Festool that actually shows how to use the cross stop. All other Festool marketing videos I came across did not cover the use of the cross stop in detail, and the product itself does not come with any instruction notes either.

In short, just remember this: Whenever registering with the cross stop pins for milling panels, use the wide (middle) setting only.  The tight setting is used only at the beginning with the paddles.

 

[Birdhunter]

I wonder how many “takes” it took to get everything to fit.