When I am not in a hurry to get things done for a customer or wife, I enjoy slowing down and using hand tools. But I don't like doing the "donkey work" with hand tools. So I am looking at getting a Festool track saw and possibly the combo with the drill. Maybe a jig saw as well. I have a table saw that I roll out onto the driveway to use so I don't make a mess in the garage. But its an old contractor saw that kind of scares me and makes a mess/loud. Ultimately I would like to get rid of the table saw and find a happy medium where I can do things mainly with hand tools but use the track saw for accurate cuts, and whatever other power tools, then do the joinery with hand tools. Anyone else in a similar situation? and if so what have you found to be a good mix?
Any hybrid woodworkers? What Festools do you use most? Or consider must-haves?
- Thread starter spetka
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What do you want to build? First tool would be a tracksaw. I'd consider the Mafell instead of the Festool tracksaw. The TS55 is dreadfully underpowered. I'd also skip all of the Festool drills. I'd rather have 3 Milwaukee's for the same price, which I do. The Domino is great, and would be my next recommendation if you plan to build furniture.
I have to disagree on the drill part of the above poster, I love my Festool drill, first thing I grab when I need a drill or screwdriver and I have others, but I grab that one.
I find the 55 track saw to be fine, its a bit underpowered but cuts up 3/4" baltic birch just fine and that is all I use track saws for, cutting sheet goods. I have a proper table saw for real wood.
if you do a lot of shelving, the LR32 is wonderful, but awfully expensive compared to competition, I sold my old templates when I got it though.
Domino is a wonderful time saver, but again awfully expensive when a good doweling jig and dowels will do the same work, just not as quick.
You can build just about anything with a good track saw, I won't get into the brand war, I like my TS55 and tracks, I found that connecting tracks is awful, buy the longest one piece track you can for the 8ft. sheets. When I was going to downsize my garage because we were moving, I was going to get rid of my table saw and just go with track saw...luckily, I didn't have to, we more than doubled my shop space by moving elsewhere
I find the 55 track saw to be fine, its a bit underpowered but cuts up 3/4" baltic birch just fine and that is all I use track saws for, cutting sheet goods. I have a proper table saw for real wood.
if you do a lot of shelving, the LR32 is wonderful, but awfully expensive compared to competition, I sold my old templates when I got it though.
Domino is a wonderful time saver, but again awfully expensive when a good doweling jig and dowels will do the same work, just not as quick.
You can build just about anything with a good track saw, I won't get into the brand war, I like my TS55 and tracks, I found that connecting tracks is awful, buy the longest one piece track you can for the 8ft. sheets. When I was going to downsize my garage because we were moving, I was going to get rid of my table saw and just go with track saw...luckily, I didn't have to, we more than doubled my shop space by moving elsewhere
Birdhunter
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I’m struck by your comment about your contractor saw scaring you. To me, my table saw is the foundation for my shop. I’d recommend replacing your saw first. I’m a believer in the SawStop products. The Professional saw is outstanding both in its design and its build quality. And, it has the safety feature. I have the Industrial model, but it is over kill for what you do.
The only unique Festool product is the Domino. It’s a total game changer. I’ve got a bunch of their other tools, but the Domino is amazing.
The only unique Festool product is the Domino. It’s a total game changer. I’ve got a bunch of their other tools, but the Domino is amazing.
The TSC 55 has more grunt than the corded version - plenty for most things up to cut capacity. I'm guessing you're talking cordless 55 if you mentioned the kit.
If you get one of the combo kits the T18 is my favorite drill. I prefer the version where you can swap the heads rather than the new 'E' that just has a chuck. The T18 has 1/2" chuck for big bits and plenty of power - the PDC might be even better if you are hogging out huge holes all the time. There's also little to no run-out with Festool drills. Something that can't be said about other drills I've used from other brands.
For jigsaw that would be one I'd recommend another brand. Unless you really want cordless to go with your other tools. The barrel Carvex is ok, but not great. For great(but corded) check out the Mafell P1CC. It's a real treat to use!
I have the Mafell tracksaw, but would only recommend that over the Festool if you would prefer the Mafell/Bosch rails. That's really the biggest difference other than a bit more power in the corded 55 Mafell saw.
If you get one of the combo kits the T18 is my favorite drill. I prefer the version where you can swap the heads rather than the new 'E' that just has a chuck. The T18 has 1/2" chuck for big bits and plenty of power - the PDC might be even better if you are hogging out huge holes all the time. There's also little to no run-out with Festool drills. Something that can't be said about other drills I've used from other brands.
For jigsaw that would be one I'd recommend another brand. Unless you really want cordless to go with your other tools. The barrel Carvex is ok, but not great. For great(but corded) check out the Mafell P1CC. It's a real treat to use!
I have the Mafell tracksaw, but would only recommend that over the Festool if you would prefer the Mafell/Bosch rails. That's really the biggest difference other than a bit more power in the corded 55 Mafell saw.
Birdhunter said:
Yeah, if money and space were no object I would get a Sawstop. But having to share space in a 2 car garage makes it challenging. Was hoping I could use a track saw for most things and maybe a small bandsaw or even a jobsite saw. I think Sawstop has a smaller saw. I really only use my table saw when I need to rip a bunch of stuff. Like for example if I need 20 pieces 3" wide etc.
I’m the same - I like to break down timber with machines and power tools, then do the detail and finishing with hand tools if I have time.
For fine work I do dovetails by hand, for less fine work I use the Leigh jig for example.
I use the table (PM2000) saw as my main tool, I got it before any Festool. The first Festool I got were the Domino which is just so useful and unique, and the OF1400 router for mortises, dovetails etc.
I actually started doing cabinets after furniture, so the track saw (TS55) and jigsaw (P1CC) came later, as did various Festool sanders as I learned that sanders ain’t sanders.
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For fine work I do dovetails by hand, for less fine work I use the Leigh jig for example.
I use the table (PM2000) saw as my main tool, I got it before any Festool. The first Festool I got were the Domino which is just so useful and unique, and the OF1400 router for mortises, dovetails etc.
I actually started doing cabinets after furniture, so the track saw (TS55) and jigsaw (P1CC) came later, as did various Festool sanders as I learned that sanders ain’t sanders.
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None of the hybrid woodworkers that I know relies on a track saw to prepare their stock. Track saws work great in handing sheet goods, but you'll struggle with cutting stock for average builds that a handtool wooworker normally deals with.
Simply search on this forum, and you should find many discussions about people getting all kinds of accessories or shop-made solutions to make repetitive cuts, etc., just because they don't own a table saw. If your interest is in traditional woodworking using hand tools, you can't replace a table saw with a track saw...period.
So get a good table saw to replace your contractor saw. The Saw Stop PCS that Birdhunter suggested will work for any amateurs as well as serious woodworkers, if the budget is there. (My shop is my two-car garage where until last year, two full-size SUVs were parked every night. I own a PCS (with an ICS-mobile base, which means I can wheel the saw with ease after a woodworking session)).
I cut a lot of dovetails by hand, but I don't want every joinery to be dovetails. That'd be ridiculously boring. So, the domino joiner (DF500) is the machine I use most after the table saw. After preparing stock and joinery with power tools, you'll still have ample opportunities to use hand tools, depending on what you have. Grooving with a plow, molding with a combination plane, mortising hinges with chisels and a router plane, sizing a door with a plane, etc. etc. are some examples. I remove all machine marks, chamfer edges, etc. with a handplane.
By the way, with a DF500, you can do frame & panel doors with lightning speed, and dadoes are largely a thing of the past -- just to mention a couple of the benefits of using dominoes.
Simply search on this forum, and you should find many discussions about people getting all kinds of accessories or shop-made solutions to make repetitive cuts, etc., just because they don't own a table saw. If your interest is in traditional woodworking using hand tools, you can't replace a table saw with a track saw...period.
So get a good table saw to replace your contractor saw. The Saw Stop PCS that Birdhunter suggested will work for any amateurs as well as serious woodworkers, if the budget is there. (My shop is my two-car garage where until last year, two full-size SUVs were parked every night. I own a PCS (with an ICS-mobile base, which means I can wheel the saw with ease after a woodworking session)).
I cut a lot of dovetails by hand, but I don't want every joinery to be dovetails. That'd be ridiculously boring. So, the domino joiner (DF500) is the machine I use most after the table saw. After preparing stock and joinery with power tools, you'll still have ample opportunities to use hand tools, depending on what you have. Grooving with a plow, molding with a combination plane, mortising hinges with chisels and a router plane, sizing a door with a plane, etc. etc. are some examples. I remove all machine marks, chamfer edges, etc. with a handplane.
By the way, with a DF500, you can do frame & panel doors with lightning speed, and dadoes are largely a thing of the past -- just to mention a couple of the benefits of using dominoes.
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Sam Murdoch
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A good bandsaw can take all the angst out of ripping on a table saw (add a carbide tooth blade). That with a jointer for solid lumber and the track saw for panel work makes the table saw nearly obsolete in my experience. I pretty much only use mine for dado work. That can be done with other tools safely and efficiently. The Domino is one of the most useful tools too.
I think it really depends on the stock you are working with.
For me, all my furniture is solid hardwood. I’m typically starting with stock like this:
Which would be a huge pain to prep with a track saw. So jointer, planer, table saw is my preferred stock prep method.
If you are using prepped boards then I can absolutely see that a track saw would be a practical choice.
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For me, all my furniture is solid hardwood. I’m typically starting with stock like this:
Which would be a huge pain to prep with a track saw. So jointer, planer, table saw is my preferred stock prep method.
If you are using prepped boards then I can absolutely see that a track saw would be a practical choice.
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Where I buy wood, they pretty much only have S3S or S2S. So i haven't really needed a planer, though I do have a 6" jointer that I rarely use. Most of the big stuff I build is 3/4 plywood with solid frame(3/4') doors usually ply panels. My next big project is adding pull out drawers in the kitchen. My wife wants as much can be done for the cabinets and pantry. So its going to be a lot of breaking down BB ply.
I would like to get a domino at some point, but not in the budget just yet.
I would like to get a domino at some point, but not in the budget just yet.
I like the band saw for ripping thick stock which I can’t rip in one pass on the table saw eg over 3”
Also I can get longer boards up to 8’ through my bandsaw where I can only get max 5.5’ through my table saw due to small shop size.
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Also I can get longer boards up to 8’ through my bandsaw where I can only get max 5.5’ through my table saw due to small shop size.
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Mario Turcot
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My most used and hard to replace Festool tools;
DF 500,
Vac-Sys
DF 500,
Vac-Sys
I am in the bandsaw camp over a table saw for furniture and a well tuned saw with the right blade can give you extremely smooth and accurate cuts. I actually think a jigsaw is a core tool and capable of lots of fine cutting if set up properly and using the right blades and technique. Track saws excel at sheet goods for sure. I used these types of tools for years and have built all kinds of furniture without using a table saw. I have a cabinet saw that I have not used for some time. I recently got a Mafell Erika for thinner rips and it is a joy to use, but had no issues making other things with repeat rips and track saws and jigsaws. Just requires thinking about the operation and jigs. In a non production setting this works fine, at least for me.
ScotF said:
I watched some Matt Estlea on YT and he seems to take the same approach. No table saw in his shop - bandsaw all the way.
Many ways to skin the cat I think. For me, having learned the craft using a table saw I didn’t even think about not starting with one.
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spetka said:
Hi [member=75485]spetka[/member]
I used to have a large table saw as well as other heavy duty woodworking machines. I sold the lot and bought into Festool. The tracksaw on a tracksaw cutting station takes away the need for a big panel or table saw. I still need a small table saw for ripping narrow stock and use my CMS-TS for that. I have a bandsaw which is perfect for resawing and making veneers. A planer-thicknesser (or two separate machines) is a must.
When I was working outside building a shed I found the tracksaw, on an accurate tracksaw cutting station, was able to do a lot of what I would routinely take to the Kapex.
Peter
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