Any interest in a replacement for Kapex angle gauge?
- Thread starter morts10n
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joiner1970
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Nothing wrong with the kapex angle finder in my book.
Consider the recent posts in "Tools and Accessories" regarding "Kapex miter Gauge accuracy"
Users must line up a laser to a line on the transfer device over and over, and instead reach for other measurement devices that read angles accurately but have to find the miter angle with math (easy for me and others...cumbersome for many)
I have a prototype that reads the miter angle directly and uses no batteries!
Users must line up a laser to a line on the transfer device over and over, and instead reach for other measurement devices that read angles accurately but have to find the miter angle with math (easy for me and others...cumbersome for many)
I have a prototype that reads the miter angle directly and uses no batteries!
Cheese
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I've used a sliding T-bevel for years with my mitre saws. They work great, no pencil, no protractor, no math. The secret is to purchase a good T-bevel that locks solidly and doesn't allow the blade to move even a little when locked-up. The Woodpeckers T-bevel is by far, the best I've ever used.
Kev
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I'd have to say that'd put me in the curious, but not at all interested camp.
I don't have accuracy problems with the KAPEX or it's companion "smart bevel" .. still not getting any hints here on why yours is supposedly better. To me you're looking at a pretty small market if your total potential is those that own a KAPEX, that are also disappointed and are further inclined to consider something in proto form.
(not being negative, just trying to be constructive)
"Throw your Kapex transfer device away" is not something I'll be doing. It's useful with the KAPEX and on it's own. Further, it's accuracy is directly related to how well you use it.
On a general note, rubbishing something and saying yours is better without even having an example to show wouldn't typically get a lot of miles with people I know. Your familiars may be different ...
Also, as [member=44099]Cheese[/member] says, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a good T-bevel gauge.
I don't have accuracy problems with the KAPEX or it's companion "smart bevel" .. still not getting any hints here on why yours is supposedly better. To me you're looking at a pretty small market if your total potential is those that own a KAPEX, that are also disappointed and are further inclined to consider something in proto form.
(not being negative, just trying to be constructive)
"Throw your Kapex transfer device away" is not something I'll be doing. It's useful with the KAPEX and on it's own. Further, it's accuracy is directly related to how well you use it.
On a general note, rubbishing something and saying yours is better without even having an example to show wouldn't typically get a lot of miles with people I know. Your familiars may be different ...
Also, as [member=44099]Cheese[/member] says, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a good T-bevel gauge.
BMAC
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I don't have a Kapex and it sounds like transferring angle using the Kapex angle gauge device has its issues from the differing threads posted.
An alternative I use for cutting crown is a Starrett Angle Finder and I take that reading and enter it into an iPhone App called "Crown Angle" and it automatically calculates the bevel and mitre angles required to cut the crown on the flat.
Maybe this would help some of you with a Kapex to determine what bevel and mitre angles need to be set (I know that this wouldn't help with the nuances of setting angles outside of the detents issues).
I have an awesome Hitachi 12" mitre saw that has a digital readout for the bevel/mitre angles which I set from the calculations the app provides, so my crown joints are tight with no gapping.
Granted, my saw doesn't have the dust control abilities that the Kapex has when hooked to a DC but my shop stays pretty much dust free as I use a FastCap Saw Hood which works great.
An alternative I use for cutting crown is a Starrett Angle Finder and I take that reading and enter it into an iPhone App called "Crown Angle" and it automatically calculates the bevel and mitre angles required to cut the crown on the flat.
Maybe this would help some of you with a Kapex to determine what bevel and mitre angles need to be set (I know that this wouldn't help with the nuances of setting angles outside of the detents issues).
I have an awesome Hitachi 12" mitre saw that has a digital readout for the bevel/mitre angles which I set from the calculations the app provides, so my crown joints are tight with no gapping.
Granted, my saw doesn't have the dust control abilities that the Kapex has when hooked to a DC but my shop stays pretty much dust free as I use a FastCap Saw Hood which works great.
Hey Kev
When I say prototype, perhaps I used the wrong term. It is completely designed with no further enhancement needed. I have a dozen and have used the same one for 15 yrs now. I designed it way before Kapex came out. This is designed for any miter saw. Not trying to be elusive, just trying to " gauge" interest!
Cheers
When I say prototype, perhaps I used the wrong term. It is completely designed with no further enhancement needed. I have a dozen and have used the same one for 15 yrs now. I designed it way before Kapex came out. This is designed for any miter saw. Not trying to be elusive, just trying to " gauge" interest!
Cheers
Cheese
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BMAC said:
Ya I also tried to use my Starrett angle finder with my saws, but because I couldn't lock it down tight, it always moved just a little bit so I went back to the Woodpeckers sliding T-bevel.
Just curious, were the 2 photos you just posted in their proper orientation when you attached them to this message? There's been a lot of images being automatically rotated incorrectly lately.
BMAC
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Yes, I noticed that they were upside down but when I click on them at least on my iPad they are displayed correctly.
I think that when I took the pictures with my iPad that I had it upside down and of course on the Apple products everything looks as it should when you take the picture. I apologize if others can't see it correctly and when I have a chance later I'll retake pictures and post them properly
I think that when I took the pictures with my iPad that I had it upside down and of course on the Apple products everything looks as it should when you take the picture. I apologize if others can't see it correctly and when I have a chance later I'll retake pictures and post them properly
Michael Kellough
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morts10n said:
No idea what the OP was talking about but 1/2* (0.5*) is not something to brag about. Even 0.1* results in a poor fit compared to what you can get with the transfer tool, with practice.
Michael
Do you think you can get accuracy to 0.1* with a miter saw?
I said that my gauge was accurate to 1/2* because it is tough to set any saw with much more accuracy than that.
The space between the degree markings for miters between 0 and 60* on my gauge are approx. 0.25" so I suppose you could approximate angles with much more precision than 1/2* just by eye.
Do you think you can get accuracy to 0.1* with a miter saw?
I said that my gauge was accurate to 1/2* because it is tough to set any saw with much more accuracy than that.
The space between the degree markings for miters between 0 and 60* on my gauge are approx. 0.25" so I suppose you could approximate angles with much more precision than 1/2* just by eye.
