Any interest in a replacement for Kapex angle gauge?

[Michael Kellough]

Michael
Do you think you can get accuracy to 0.1* with a miter saw?
I said that my gauge was accurate to 1/2* because it is tough to set any saw with much more accuracy than that.
The space between the degree markings for miters between 0 and 60* on my gauge are approx.  0.25" so I suppose you could approximate angles with much more precision than 1/2* just by eye.

Yes, and I'm sure you too do better than that routinely, but maybe you don't realize it.

Having never seen your device I can't comment on it but you do yourself a disservice saying it's good to 1/2* because I'm sure it's way better than that, or you wouldn't be proud of it.

I'm not sure if you're talking about your device or your miter saw when you talk about the space between markings but if it's the miter saw then that is a good demonstration that 1/2* degree is pretty big when it comes to fitting miters. The Milwaukee 12" SCMS has digital readout of the miter angle as well as a physical scale. If you use one you'll notice that even though the dro is in 0.1* increments the readout doesn't change until the physical curser has moved a noticable distance on the scale.

I think that is what you're talking about in the last part of your post. So, yes, you can do better than 1/2* by eye. When you bump the miter arm over "just a hair" you're making an adjustment a good bit finer than 0.1*.

I thought 0.1* was something insanely small until I bought the Bosch Digital Angle Finder a couple of decades ago. I quickly found out for duplicating simple angles transferring from any old sliding bevel gauge was much more accurate and much faster. The digital angle finder is useful for getting in the ballpark when miters ares are required for molding etc.

The inexpensive digital sliding bevel gauges (if reasonably accurate) may be the best all around device for setting miter saws...unless you have a saw with a laser and a clever transfer device.

 

[Cheese]

I said that my gauge was accurate to 1/2* because it is tough to set any saw with much more accuracy than that.

A number of years ago I replaced standard Doug fir treads & risers in an existing staircase, with maple items. It didn't take more than fitting the first tread before I realized that the +/- 1/2* that I thought would be acceptable wasn't even close. I needed to be in the +/- 1/4* realm to even start the project. What I ended up needing was around +/- 1/8*.