Any reason not to choose the rail with the holes when purchasing the TS 55?

[TGJR]

I finally made the plunge into Festool ownership by picking up a TS 55. The dealer was willing to swap the normal rail for the holey 55" rail. I chose not to but now I am second-guessing my decision. I do plan on picking up a 1400 router and the hole drilling system in the near future. My initial thinking was I would pick up the larger 95" holey rail when the time comes but now I'm thinking having a 55" holey rail would be convenient.

So my question is, why would I want the regular 55" rail when I can have the one with holes at no extra charge?

 

[Bob Marino]

I finally made the plunge into Festool ownership by picking up a TS 55. The dealer was willing to swap the normal rail for the holey 55" rail. I chose not to but now I am second-guessing my decision. I do plan on picking up a 1400 router and the hole drilling system in the near future. My initial thinking was I would pick up the larger 95" holey rail when the time comes but now I'm thinking having a 55" holey rail would be convenient.

So my question is, why would I want the regular 55" rail when I can have the one with holes at no extra charge?

No reason at all, if you have not used it yet, ask to swap it out.

Bob

 

[wow]

Nope. In fact it's highly recommended.

If I were FestoolUSA's marketing guy I'd discontinue the non-holey rail, just on the chance that it might push or cajole someone into the LR32 system at a later date.

 

[TGJR]

Thanks! I initially decided on the rail with the holes but then changed my mind as I wasn't sure of the differences between the two. I'll definitely be swapping the rails.

 

[Bob Wolfe]

Get both, then you can rip 8 foot sheets by joining them, built two kitchens that way. I prefer the 1010 on the holey rail

 

[Dwayne]

That is what I did.  Join for handling 8 ft and ready if I ever pick up LR32 hole system

 

[shed9]

Get both, then you can rip 8 foot sheets by joining them, built two kitchens that way. I prefer the 1010 on the holey rail

I second the 1010 on the rail over the 1400.

 

[batcave]

The holes should be standard on all the rails.

 

[Sparktrician]

Get both, then you can rip 8 foot sheets by joining them, built two kitchens that way. I prefer the 1010 on the holey rail

I second the 1010 on the rail over the 1400.

+1!!!  I bought two 1400mm holy rails to save space in my tight shop.  They're much easier to transport, too. 

 

[mastercabman]

Nope. In fact it's highly recommended.

If I were FestoolUSA's marketing guy I'd discontinue the non-holey rail, just on the chance that it might push or cajole someone into the LR32 system at a later date.

+1!
I suggested that long ago!

 

[jeh]

Get the 55" rail w/holes if that is the only rail you will have. The 95" rail is not the best purchase unless you have a lot of others. As your only rail it is of limited use as it is too long for practical use, but long enough for breaking down sheet goods. The 55" is a good size to start with. You can add another 55" rail w/holes later and be able to cover sheet goods for cutting, routing, or shelf holes.

Consider getting the parallel set and it makes repetitive cuts too easy and it works with any rail. You'll need the entire set if you want to cut narrow stock. It's one of the best accessories Festool makes. I have a large table saw and use the parallel guides to break down plywood into manageable pieces when I don't have a helper or am working onsite with a portable table saw that can't deal with 4x8 panels. Watch the video(s) on YouTube for an explanation of how they work.

It's too bad all of the rails don't have holes.

 

[Throwback7r]

+1 on the  parallel set I did not understand it until I went to one of the classes. Learned and ordered, they were at my house when I got back from the training class.

 

[SittingElf]

I have a large table saw and use the parallel guides to break down plywood into manageable pieces when I don't have a helper or am working onsite with a portable table saw that can't deal with 4x8 panels. Watch the video(s) on YouTube for an explanation of how they work.

It's too bad all of the rails don't have holes.

Jim,

I'd really like to see how you use the parallel guides with your table saw. Any chance of a video or at least pictures?

Cheers,

Frank

 

[jeh]

I have a large table saw and use the parallel guides to break down plywood into manageable pieces when I don't have a helper or am working onsite with a portable table saw that can't deal with 4x8 panels. Watch the video(s) on YouTube for an explanation of how they work.

It's too bad all of the rails don't have holes.

Jim,

I'd really like to see how you use the parallel guides with your table saw. Any chance of a video or at least pictures?

Cheers,

Frank

Frank,

I was a little to quick with my wording and see that it does read as if I did use the guides with my table saw. I'll clear it up:

At the shop:
Table saw as much as possible. If I have a helper I'll use it break down sheet goods, if not I'll use the TS75 + parallel guides. Once the pieces are a manageable size I'll switch back to the table saw because it is the most accurate and easiest to setup of the two. I have a fairly generous out feed and indeed table, but as I've gotten older I've found that I'd rather not run 4x8's solo on the table saw.

On location:
TS75 with the parallel guides.

I am old school and have always had a heavy duty table saw. You can't beat the convenience and repeatability. My first saw was a decent stationary craftsman model and then moved to a Delta Unisaw. It was a huge improvement and made me realize the lesser saws are death machines. I was happy with the Unisaw and luckily still have all my digits on both hands. I was lucky enough to be asked to try out the SawStop prior to its release and given the option to buy it at a greatly reduced price in exchange for feedback. I committed to buy it within days of setup. It's as a good as the Unisaw without the risk of mutilation. I know too many cabinetmakers who are working with a partial set of digits on one hand and sometimes two. If someone is thinking of a table saw it is the only chose especially for the casual woodworker.

All that said the TS55/75 are great saws that come close to replicating a table saw. They are more than adequate for most and the parallel guides make them even better. The only issue I have is with the rail connector being crappy and the need to own a lot of rails. I won't join two together so I have every size from the 32" up to the 118" less the 106", which is an oddball size. If I did it again I'd skip the 42" the others get a lot of use. I'd like to see a redesign on the joining system, because it sucks and it is the weakest part of the Festool "system". I am familiar with the Betterly and it does make sense if you don't have a longer rail available.

 

[Sparktrician]

I am familiar with the Betterly and it does make sense if you don't have a longer rail available.

I've found that the Betterley makes connections dead-on.  My shop is small, and I don't have room to swing a larger rail without likely hitting something.  When space permits, I'll happily spring for a 3000mm rail, but for now, two 1400mm rails makes so much better sense, plus they are much more easily transportable for site work.