Any tip what to do to warped boards?

[RONWEN]

...anyone heard of an Italian make Meber?

I've never owned or operated a Meber, but I do know they have been making bandsaws for over fifty years just outside of Balogna, Italy.

Their machines seem to be well regarded. They were the first company to build bandsaws for Laguna Tools, back when Laguna was considered top of the line.  Laguna later switched to ACM, also in Italy, and then to several other suppliers in several different countries.

John, are you aware of ANY poor quality bandsaws from Italy?  [unsure]

 

[PaulMarcel]

John, are you aware of ANY poor quality bandsaws from Italy?   [unsure]

Those from 'porto di merci' are questionable  [tongue]

 

[RONWEN]

I'm more likely to toss a straight/flat piece of wood in the burn pile than a really warped piece.

I believe that to be true -- you seem to get a bit of inspiration from that which isn't straight & narrow.  [wink]

 

[Scott B.]

Step Two:

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You broke my heart Scott -- there appeared to be a fair amount of thick cherry & other hardwoods in there...  [sad]  [crying]

No cherry, I promise.

 

[joraft]

John, are you aware of ANY poor quality bandsaws from Italy?   [unsure]

Ron, I have not run across any.

I don't know why the Italians have such a reputation for manufacturing quality bandsaws. It could be that for so long they have supplied more to the rest of the world than any other country. They have a huge interest in maintaining a stellar reputation.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

In spite of my Festool addiction, I am normally a rather frugal kind of guy and I hate to throw things away.

But, a pile of twisted wood can take a lot of time away from more productive shop activities and wind up creating a heartbreak anyhow.

I spend a lot of time at the lumberyard carefully matching grain patterns and finding just the right figure for that curved leg, so its very unlikely that the scrap pile will yield anything very useful.

So, unless there is something very special about this wood that merits the time needed to salvage it, it sounds like firewood to me.

Move on, find better wood, sticker it well, mill it to near spec (if not joining that day), then mill to final specifications just before you join it.  Glue up the day you cut the joinery if you can.  Then you will have well made furniture that stays that way!

 

[Nigel]

...anyone heard of an Italian make Meber?

I've never owned or operated a Meber, but I do know they have been making bandsaws for over fifty years just outside of Balogna, Italy.

Their machines seem to be well regarded. They were the first company to build bandsaws for Laguna Tools, back when Laguna was considered top of the line.  Laguna later switched to ACM, also in Italy, and then to several other suppliers in several different countries.

Thanks for the info John.

 

[flair woodworks]

I'm more likely to toss a straight/flat piece of wood in the burn pile than a really warped piece.

I believe that to be true -- you seem to get a bit of inspiration from that which isn't straight & narrow.  [wink]

You mean, like my mind?

 

[RC]

Nothing special in this pile - just that its pressure treated so can't go and burn it.

I managed to give some of them last night to a friend whos going to repair some rotten backyard barcounter roof posts where the twist doesn't really matter. So at least not all of is waste.

I regain more space, he get free lumber to fix his roof - everyone wins [big grin]

 

[RC]

So, build yourself a shed and get some tools to go in it! I will send you some plans if that would help.

Thanks for the offer Peter, unfortunately living in an attached house means that I can't build any permanent structures that aren't identical to my 10 neighbors and have building permits cleared from the town.

So I'll just have to quietly work on insides of our current garden shed and maybe come up with creative ways of turning it into a dry space with heating somehow. It would be easiest to just pull the old one down and rebuild from ground up, but that would call too much attention to itself.

 

[Tinker]

Reiska, Did you mention you have the HL 65?
I have the 850 and use it all the time for warped & twisted lumber.  Using winding sticks, i can get one side almost purfict (spelling pun? yes).  On very wide board surfacing, i have not the skill or touch to get rid of edge ridges from the corners of the blade, but i can get the overall surface close to flat. the final touches get smoothed down with hand planes or, sometimes just a touching up with the RO 150.  Once one side is flat, the board gets flattened on both sides, and parallel, by going thru the planer. If too wide for the planer, it is a good time to sharpen your skills by doing the other side with your HL 65 and hand planes. 

That part can be funnnnn.
Tinker 

 

[RC]

Thanks Tinker  [wink]

I'm actually trying to make up my mind on what to do a table top I have that has warped into a slight upside down U-shape - do I try to straighten it with my Stanley 4C or the EHL65 or just sand the old lacquer off and let it stay warped under the new lacquer I'm planning on putting on it. It is solid fir of about 5cm (2") thick so I think I would need to remove about 3-5mm of material on both sides to flatten it out again so it feels a bit large to do by hand but I'm quite lost on what sort of technique to use with a hand held power planer to tackle something like this since it's a 900mm x 1500mm table top. I've never used a power planer for anything else but planing edges of boards.

Can one use a power planer like a normal hand plane i.e. plane across a surface to flatten it with long strokes?

 

[Tinker]

>>>Can one use a power planer like a normal hand plane i.e. plane across a surface to flatten it with long strokes?