Anyone use/have used a Collins Coping Foot on their jigsaw?

Hi Ed

Nice scribes but as confirmed that looks like cornice.
Against a flat wall your going to have a large "shadow gap"?

Also it won't fit picture rail hangers?
Apologies if you already had these factors in hand.
 
windmill man said:
Ed

That's cornice

Oops, it was sold as picture rail, we have had a trial just on a straight wall and liked the way it looked, would be disappointing if we can't use it, not financially as it was quite cheap, but we are putting wood panelling on one wall and we were planning on using that 'shadow gap' to hide the join. My missus reckons I'm a right wally now.

Oh well, gives good practise for my scribe cuts, by the time I've practised on 50 odd metres of Cornice  [eek]
 
Sorry Ed 

Type 14 is the one you come across mostly , I believe you can still get the matching hanger shells (hooks) if you are going to put it to its intended use .  There are lots of houses with "picture rail" installed but they are actually  frieze rail  , it was a decorative feature rather than a means to hang pictures

John
 
Thanks John, we went with the type 10 in the end, by the time I rout a small rabbet in the bottom, it will probably lose the bottom bead. I've bought enough for the first two rooms in 4.5 mtr lengths so that solves one problem anyway and should give plenty of offcuts to practice on.

I thought it was strange when I couldn't quite get the corners square initially.
 
Ed
If you are putting panelling on one wall don't route the moulding . Put a packing strip the thickness of the panelling above the panel , then apply the rail .If  you don't it will not match the adjacent walls.
Also be careful where you put the rail in relation to your door architrave head (height wise)

John
 
I haven't used a Collins coping foot yet but I have a Ryobi cordless jigsaw and a Bosch jig saw.  There is a big difference.  The blade movement of the Ryobi is sloppy compared to the Bosch.  I would not want to try the Collins on the Ryobi, I would use the Bosch. 

It will be awhile before I am good enough for stain grade work.  I've coped plenty of joints with a coping saw but only on paint grade work.  Not so tough when you can just smear caulk in a 1/16 gap.  I plan to start the Collins on paint grade and do stain grade later after some practice.
 
JimD said:
I haven't used a Collins coping foot yet but I have a Ryobi cordless jigsaw and a Bosch jig saw.  There is a big difference.  The blade movement of the Ryobi is sloppy compared to the Bosch.  I would not want to try the Collins on the Ryobi, I would use the Bosch. 

It will be awhile before I am good enough for stain grade work.  I've coped plenty of joints with a coping saw but only on paint grade work.  Not so tough when you can just smear caulk in a 1/16 gap.  I plan to start the Collins on paint grade and do stain grade later after some practice.

Which of the Ryobi cordless jigsaws do you have? I have had two with the latest model (LED light, no Laser) a much better jigsaw than the earlier version (laser) which I gave away. Using the coping foot on the Ryobi, I cut the scribe joints above and have cut quite a few since with it that I am happy with.

I did buy the Carvex and have the coping foot for that too, but I have not had time to try it out yet.
 
Ed Bray said:
...
I did buy the Carvex and have the coping foot for that too, but I have not had time to try it out yet.

Mine came in yesterday...
I'll note that that David Collins is a pleasant fellow to chat with on the phone and do business with.
Now to figure what to do with it. My mind is usually set up like a combo of the Matrix and Tron with square/straight/normal, and the Collins foot seem like more of a Gaudi/Maloof organic flowing style.
 
Love it.  I have a Carvex barrel body and learned to use it inverted.  Scary at first pulling that blade toward you.....
But this very affordable shoe lets you get a joint far better than a miter.  IMO
 
wrightwoodwork said:
Generally when doing a room of skirting the side opposite the door is done first then chased back to the door. On a square room the reason it is done in that order is if thier is any shrinkage in the timber you won't look straight into a gap when you open the door. Now if there is a recess in the room I will also fit the piece at the back of the recess first before I chase the skirting into the recess after starting with the wall opposite the door. Again for the same reason so if thier is any movement. Basically you should always be trying to hide any movement and when you open the door any movement shouldn't be visible straight away.

When running base I walk into a room, turn right, and start measuring.  I'm right handed and prefer to cope rights.  For crown I turn left because I cut and cope in position.  I switch directions or double cope if I'm coping into preassembled trim units but that's about it.  There are always enough different angles that joints can be viewed that if one opens you will see it regardless of the direction it's oriented.

The jigsaw the foot is used on doesn't matter as long as it fits.  Mine lives on a dedicated Bosch jigsaw.  I have tried the Festool gold blade for coping but always go back to the Bosch 244 blades the foot is designed to work with.  I have no problems scrolling or cutting straights with it. The Festool blades are too stiff. I always leave the line and file it righteous. 
 
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