Anyone used Ipe' for outdoor furniture?

Brice Burrell said:
kevinculle said:
With an annual cleaning and oiling the appearance of Ipe is beautiful and we've been doing that so far.  At some point we may let it go grey but it sure looks nice after oiling.

Oiled Ipe looks amazing, the amount of maintenance is daunting.  I have no doubt you'll let gray at some point. [big grin]  Would you mind sharing some pictures of your decks?

Here in Michigan we have just exited a loooong winter and deck cleaning and oiling season is near...expect a few weeks before pix are available.
 
OK so after a few days powerwashing and a few more oiling we're done for this year.
 

Attachments

  • 20180509_1.jpg
    20180509_1.jpg
    4.6 MB · Views: 851
  • 20180509_2.jpg
    20180509_2.jpg
    3.7 MB · Views: 816
  • 20180509_3.jpg
    20180509_3.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 1,056
  • 20180509_4.jpg
    20180509_4.jpg
    3.7 MB · Views: 756
  • 20180509_5.jpg
    20180509_5.jpg
    4.2 MB · Views: 708
  • 20180509_6.jpg
    20180509_6.jpg
    4.8 MB · Views: 785
kevinculle said:
OK so after a few days powerwashing and a few more oiling we're done for this year.

Good looking deck...it's beautiful when its oiled.  [thumbs up]

Was that deck just power washed with no sanding?

The reason I ask, is I have to do the same thing, sanding & oiling every year to a teak table, 10 teak chairs and a teak chaise lounge. It's a real PITA. If I could just power wash and then oil that'd make a huge difference.
 
The approach I use is to powerwash thoroughly to remove most of the oxidized gray surface, then spray on Messmers Deck Cleaner with a garden type sprayer keeping the surface wet 15-20 miutes then lightly scrubbing with a deck brush and a final powerwashing.  I use the widest spray nozzle on my powerwasher and get close enough that the fan is about half the width of a nominal 6" deck board and do 3 passes on each board going down each side then up the middle.  The hardness of Ipe lets you powerwash more aggressively than with cedar or treated SYP.  I don't sand except for prominent scratches as the general opinion is that sanding leaves a more closed surface that doesn't allow the Ipe Oil to penetrate as deeply.
 
I was going to ask what finish you use but since you mention Messmers I assume you’re also using their stain also.  I use Messmers UV Plus Natural, but I can no longer get it locally and no one will ship it to Hawaii since it’s considered Haz Mat.  Really like the look.  Not sure what I’m going to use when I run through my last gallon.  I need to sand since power washing doesn’t remove all staining plus I get bleach overspray since I need to power wash and bleach concrete several times a year. I’m in a very wet environment.  Lots of algae, mildew, etc.

I use West Systems Gflex to treat all end grain and any surface underneath where water tends to hang or drip from.  Also if joints aren’t glue with epoxy, they are embedded in polyurethane caulk.

2018043007171222-iOS-Upload-File-34724969-M.jpg


2018043007040103-iOS-Upload-File-108675-M.jpg
 
I've been using Ipe Oil for the finish and I am satisfied with it...I just wish it would last 2 or 3 years!
 
kevinculle said:
The approach I use is to powerwash thoroughly to remove most of the oxidized gray surface, then spray on Messmers Deck Cleaner with a garden type sprayer keeping the surface wet 15-20 miutes then lightly scrubbing with a deck brush and a final powerwashing.  I use the widest spray nozzle on my powerwasher and get close enough that the fan is about half the width of a nominal 6" deck board and do 3 passes on each board going down each side then up the middle.  The hardness of Ipe lets you powerwash more aggressively than with cedar or treated SYP.  I don't sand except for prominent scratches as the general opinion is that sanding leaves a more closed surface that doesn't allow the Ipe Oil to penetrate as deeply.

Thanks 🙏  for the info...I'm going to try your method with one of the chairs and see what happens. [smile]
 
Back
Top