Attachment that not everybody know is in the market for OF 1400 & OF 1010

[TylerC]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] [member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member] These OF 1010 accessories were discontinued for the same reason why most things are discontinued: They simply didn't sell well enough. Even since the trim router was introduced, sales of the OF 1010 accessories declined. Honestly, this is fine with us, because we feel that the trim router is a better option.

 

[ear3]

Thanks for the update [member=57769]TylerC[/member]

What's done is done, and since I have my accessories I'm not complaining, but I would point out that one of the reasons for the lack of sales might have been due to their not even being listed in the main Festool catalog for the past several years.

I understand that you sometimes have a thankless task coming on here, where every enduser is suddenly a product development specialist and marketing guru, so just wanted to say thanks for continuing to field our questions. [big grin]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] [member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member] These OF 1010 accessories were discontinued for the same reason why most things are discontinued: They simply didn't sell well enough. Even since the trim router was introduced, sales of the OF 1010 accessories declined. Honestly, this is fine with us, because we feel that the trim router is a better option.

 

[gsdvorak]

I purchased the 700 router specifically for edge trimming and absolutely love it for this purpose; however, the depth issue mentioned earlier in this thread has caused issues a couple times.  For those of you that use these accessories: 
  1) which specific accessories are necessary to get the 1010 router horizontal?  All 4 of the ones listed above?
  2) Is setup quick or do you have to fine-tune each time?
  3) How thick can your edging be for this solution to work?  Or, will it trim 3/4" edging?

Thanks All,
Gerald

 

[Gjarman12]

Although I haven't used it, I've been thinking about buying it for awhile and might have to pull the trigger soon. I think the required parts are.

486052 - angle arm
486058 - edging plate

I think the chip deflector (486242) is optional and recommend (what I've read in other posts).

I would like to know about the ease of use too as I'm considering a dewalt 611 or bosch colt that might have the ability to work in a CNC in the future too.

 

[Vondawg]

Watch MK's video (first post)

 

[ear3]

[member=20329]Gerald_D[/member] Chip deflector is technically "optional", but I would definitely get it along with the angle arm and edging plate, as it really does take care of most of the sawdust, which otherwise becomes very messy.

The setup is super easy.  I keep my unit already assembled in the 1010 systainer, and it takes under a minute to mount it to the router and adjust it.  One can work with our without a bearing guided flush trim bit, but it's easiest and safest I think to work with a bearing -- this also makes positioning the height a snap, since you lower the router (using the microadjust dial on the angle arm) till the bearing just kisses the wood.  I've heard it recommended that you have the bearing a millimeter or so above the surface, but I've found it works best when the bearing is actually riding on the surface (though not so much that it will leave a mark). 

In terms of length, you're limited only by the side of your bit.  I've trimmed banding as thick as 1" with it.  The things to keep in mind when you start working with thicker (1/2"+) banding is:

1) if the banding projects significantly above the surface of the board, its best to take it in multiple passes

2) there is a limit to bit projection enforced by the deflector.  I've never measured it, but there will come a point where the bottom of the bit hits the plastic.  You can simply remove it and deal with the sawdust if you need to run the bit that deep.  It might be possible also to file away a small amount from the center of the deflector (which has a half-circle shape) and use a very small diameter flush trim bit so you get clearance for the bearing.

You can also use it for things like sliding dovetail joints, though after experimenting with this over the weekend, I still prefer the router table.  But I know other people have had success using this method.

I purchased the 700 router specifically for edge trimming and absolutely love it for this purpose; however, the depth issue mentioned earlier in this thread has caused issues a couple times.  For those of you that use these accessories: 
  1) which specific accessories are necessary to get the 1010 router horizontal?  All 4 of the ones listed above?
  2) Is setup quick or do you have to fine-tune each time?
  3) How thick can your edging be for this solution to work?  Or, will it trim 3/4" edging?

Thanks All,
Gerald

 

[gsdvorak]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]  Thanks for the info and [member=41086]Vondawg[/member] for pointing me to the video.  I guess I'm getting lazy on the FOG lately (or too much in a hurry)- there is some nice info in this thread and I would have saved you some time typing if I only would have read the rest of the messages. 

I will definitely need to add these items to my arsenal- I have a second OF1010 that I purchased as a demo from my dealer that I will dedicate simply for this task. 

I wish Festool would quit discontinuing accessories I suddenly 'need'- I'm trying to save up for the Vac-Sys and, between the MFS system (which I had on my wishlist) and others, it just keeps setting me backward.

Anyway- Thanks again for the help!

Regards,
Gerald

 

[MrToolJunkie]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]  Thanks for the info and [member=41086]Vondawg[/member] for pointing me to the video.  I guess I'm getting lazy on the FOG lately (or too much in a hurry)- there is some nice info in this thread and I would have saved you some time typing if I only would have read the rest of the messages. 

I will definitely need to add these items to my arsenal- I have a second OF1010 that I purchased as a demo from my dealer that I will dedicate simply for this task. 

I wish Festool would quit discontinuing accessories I suddenly 'need'- I'm trying to save up for the Vac-Sys and, between the MFS system (which I had on my wishlist) and others, it just keeps setting me backward.

Anyway- Thanks again for the help!

Regards,
Gerald

I hear you on the other stuff that keeps setting you back - I am in the same boat!

I would get all the accessories for the 1010 so that you have the ability to follow curved work. The chip deflector I think is a must have. You can easily trim 3/4 inch edge banding with these accessories and it is easy to set this up with the router -- super accurate with the adjustment screw as well. I have kissed the face of masking tape before -- so it allows fine tuning within .001 of an inch less. Very accurate.

Here is a video I did a few months ago with this in action:

 

[Holmz]

...

Here Festool, let me help you out, I won't charge for this service...try this, due to the increasing costs of hardgoods and raw materials, some of the accessories for the OF 1010 can no longer be viably & economically manufactured which goes against the grain of Festool philosophy that great tools should  be available to the masses at a reasonable price. Thus, because our manufacturing costs have skyrocketed lately due to the cost of raw material, we feel we can no longer manufacture these items at a reasonable price...............

The same materials are used for other tools, so I am unconvinced.

 

[Flatsawn]

[member=20329]Gerald_D[/member] Chip deflector is technically "optional", but I would definitely get it along with the angle arm and edging plate, as it really does take care of most of the sawdust, which otherwise becomes very messy.

The setup is super easy.  I keep my unit already assembled in the 1010 systainer, and it takes under a minute to mount it to the router and adjust it.  One can work with our without a bearing guided flush trim bit, but it's easiest and safest I think to work with a bearing -- this also makes positioning the height a snap, since you lower the router (using the microadjust dial on the angle arm) till the bearing just kisses the wood.  I've heard it recommended that you have the bearing a millimeter or so above the surface, but I've found it works best when the bearing is actually riding on the surface (though not so much that it will leave a mark). 

In terms of length, you're limited only by the side of your bit.  I've trimmed banding as thick as 1" with it.  The things to keep in mind when you start working with thicker (1/2"+) banding is:

1) if the banding projects significantly above the surface of the board, its best to take it in multiple passes

2) there is a limit to bit projection enforced by the deflector.  I've never measured it, but there will come a point where the bottom of the bit hits the plastic.  You can simply remove it and deal with the sawdust if you need to run the bit that deep.  It might be possible also to file away a small amount from the center of the deflector (which has a half-circle shape) and use a very small diameter flush trim bit so you get clearance for the bearing.

You can also use it for things like sliding dovetail joints, though after experimenting with this over the weekend, I still prefer the router table.  But I know other people have had success using this method.

I purchased the 700 router specifically for edge trimming and absolutely love it for this purpose; however, the depth issue mentioned earlier in this thread has caused issues a couple times.  For those of you that use these accessories: 
  1) which specific accessories are necessary to get the 1010 router horizontal?  All 4 of the ones listed above?
  2) Is setup quick or do you have to fine-tune each time?
  3) How thick can your edging be for this solution to work?  Or, will it trim 3/4" edging?

Thanks All,
Gerald

I recently got the edge guide for the OF 1400. Does the chip deflector work with the dust hood or does it replace the the dust hood. I'm going to try it on my 1400 router just wondered if you were referring to only the 1010.

I have a Festool 492732 Chip Catcher OF 1400 and a Festool 492000 Dust Hood OF 1400 
Would this work or would I need a Festool 445497 Chip Guard For OF 1400 And OF 2200 Edge Guides instead?
 

Thanks Mark

 

[ear3]

[member=5854]Flatsawn[/member]  The Chip Deflector (486242) only fits on the 1010.  I've never tested the edging plate on the 1400, but my understanding is that you should be able to work with the standard chip catcher that comes with the router (492732).  Have you ytested it out that way?

[member=20329]Gerald_D[/member] Chip deflector is technically "optional", but I would definitely get it along with the angle arm and edging plate, as it really does take care of most of the sawdust, which otherwise becomes very messy.

The setup is super easy.  I keep my unit already assembled in the 1010 systainer, and it takes under a minute to mount it to the router and adjust it.  One can work with our without a bearing guided flush trim bit, but it's easiest and safest I think to work with a bearing -- this also makes positioning the height a snap, since you lower the router (using the microadjust dial on the angle arm) till the bearing just kisses the wood.  I've heard it recommended that you have the bearing a millimeter or so above the surface, but I've found it works best when the bearing is actually riding on the surface (though not so much that it will leave a mark). 

In terms of length, you're limited only by the side of your bit.  I've trimmed banding as thick as 1" with it.  The things to keep in mind when you start working with thicker (1/2"+) banding is:

1) if the banding projects significantly above the surface of the board, its best to take it in multiple passes

2) there is a limit to bit projection enforced by the deflector.  I've never measured it, but there will come a point where the bottom of the bit hits the plastic.  You can simply remove it and deal with the sawdust if you need to run the bit that deep.  It might be possible also to file away a small amount from the center of the deflector (which has a half-circle shape) and use a very small diameter flush trim bit so you get clearance for the bearing.

You can also use it for things like sliding dovetail joints, though after experimenting with this over the weekend, I still prefer the router table.  But I know other people have had success using this method.

I purchased the 700 router specifically for edge trimming and absolutely love it for this purpose; however, the depth issue mentioned earlier in this thread has caused issues a couple times.  For those of you that use these accessories: 
  1) which specific accessories are necessary to get the 1010 router horizontal?  All 4 of the ones listed above?
  2) Is setup quick or do you have to fine-tune each time?
  3) How thick can your edging be for this solution to work?  Or, will it trim 3/4" edging?

Thanks All,
Gerald

I recently got the edge guide for the OF 1400. Does the chip deflector work with the dust hood or does it replace the the dust hood. I'm going to try it on my 1400 router just wondered if you were referring to only the 1010.

I have a Festool 492732 Chip Catcher OF 1400 and a Festool 492000 Dust Hood OF 1400 
Would this work or would I need a Festool 445497 Chip Guard For OF 1400 And OF 2200 Edge Guides instead?
 

Thanks Mark