ATTN: TSO Products / domino drill guide

[usernumber1]

Hello sirs,

any possibility of engineering something like the DD40 drill guide but for the domino.
https://www.timberwolftools.com/dowel-template-800-mm-with-quick-acting-clamping-device

I'm guessing a modified plate or some sort of "key" attachment for the existing base would work, just need a precisely machined template

thanks, love your work

 

[neeleman]

It's already made by FC Tools based in the UK.
And called DAJ (Domino Alignment Jig System). There's also a Deluxe version.
There's a nice video about the jig by ManorWood.

 

[usernumber1]

not sure it's the same thing, i think FC tools missed the point of indexing off edges, they are using tight holes instead and the whole rail seems complicated in relation to the mafell solution

Not to mention availability in NA or any integration with existing TSO products - which they almost(!) built themselves - they want you to build your own 'template' and use pencil marks for aligntment using the bigfoot,
https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/dbf-45-bigfoot-v2-0-base-system-for-festool-domino/

so close!

 

[ChuckM]

RE the jig seen used in the FC Tools video: If Festool had designed and produced its DF500 to work in such a complicated manner to complete a basic simple butt joint, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have owned a domino machine.

 

[sancho57]

Hello sirs,

any possibility of engineering something like the DD40 drill guide but for the domino.
https://www.timberwolftools.com/dowel-template-800-mm-with-quick-acting-clamping-device

I'm guessing a modified plate or some sort of "key" attachment for the existing base would work, just need a precisely machined template

thanks, love your work

anything is possible but probable is another story.

 

[Birdhunter]

I enjoy using my DDF40 with both the short and long guides. The doweling machine requires high precision thus the guide. The Domino works fine with just pencil marks if you use the tight/wide technique.

 

[usernumber1]

I enjoy using my DDF40 with both the short and long guides. The doweling machine requires high precision thus the guide. The Domino works fine with just pencil marks if you use the tight/wide technique.

time savings - i need to bang out 20 boards, 5 domino each i dont want to mark anything if i can help it.

i've been using the winglet attachments but they are slow to adjust if boards are different. the way ddf40 does it seems perfect and simple

 

[ChuckM]

time savings - i need to bang out 20 boards, 5 domino each i dont want to mark anything if i can help it.

i've been using the winglet attachments but they are slow to adjust if boards are different. the way ddf40 does it seems perfect and simple

Assuming you're using the paddles/pins to register the cuts on both sides, 20 boards would mean less than 60 placement lines to pencil (57 to be exact, 19 boards x 3, excluding the outer 2). If marking them out is considered time-consuming, how about placing thin strips of painter's tape (about 2mm wide) to indicate the mortise placement locations?

If using the narrow setting on one board and wide on the mating board, the strips do not have to be placed dead accurate and square on the boards. There's no need to measure; distancing the three mortises by eye is good enough -- if time saving is an objective. In fact, under the narrow/wide configuration, full pencil lines are not even necessary. Big visible dots marked with a thick pencil on the mating boards would be good enough for positioning the machine.

The DF500 cross stop actually speeds up the mortising quicker than using pencil lines or tape in typical cases, but one needs to use it often enough to be efficient with it. I usually mortise the boards against a planing stop, bench dogs or the posts of holdfasts on the workbench without the need for clamping/unclamping of anything. It's like using a router dovetail jig: the more often it's used, the more efficient it becomes. But I've never joined anything more than 14 boards using the cross stop.

 

[xedos]

WoW, $300 - $600 to save what, half an hour of layout for twenty boards ?

I love tools and gadgets as much as the next guy, but your time must be really valuable to warrant that.  Or you just hate layout. 

 

[tsmi243]

As was mentioned, the Domino doesn't need perfect positioning as the doweler does.  That means you don't need a precise jig. 

You might try using a drywall T-square as a story stick.  Run a strip of painter's tape over it to cover the inch marks, and use a fine marker to place your own marks.  Peel off the tape when you move to a new project.

 

[Birdhunter]

I mark one board and use those marks to mark all the other boards. Thus, no measurement errors. I put a W or a N on each side.

Also, the Mafell Doweler is slow to drive into the wood. I’ve tried plugging it into my Mini and into the wall. No difference. It doesn’t seem to bog down, it just drills slowly.  Big difference between plunge speeds and force required between Domino and DDF40. Doweler requires a lot of force.

Warning, if you remove one bit on the Doweler so as to drill just one hole, Don’t forget to screw in the set screw on the side where you removed the bit. Please do not ask how I discovered this secret

The Mafell guide is ideal for panels, but it needs a surface to lie on. The board must be wide enough to support the guide.

Where I love to use the Doweler is joining table legs to the stretchers.on smaller tables, I might have room for only one Domino mortise. With the Doweler, I can easily get 2 or even 4 dowels in. Great machine as long as you are very precise.

If I were to design a jig for the Domino, I’d make an H shaped part where the base of the Domino snugly slides into in either direction. The center of the H is wide and thick enough th slide in a rail marked with graduations. There would be a way to lockdown the H at desired locations. Multiple H parts could be mounted on the rail like storysticks.  I’d make the H parts out of some really tough plastic material and the rail out of aluminum.

 

[ChuckM]

If I were to redesign the Domino machine, I'd make the whole fence and mortising action rotatable to make angled mortising possible without using a jig (think: ladder or louver shutter).

Blame Birdhunter for this off-topic comment. [big grin]

 

[usernumber1]

The story stick idea is great that's basically what the ddf40 drilling template is. / could use a square or a ruler or the rails or one of those cheap self clamping saw guides. would have to think about it for the edges tho

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] thanks, that's basically what i've been doing. I have them dialed down - there is no drift over at least 6 dowels. I can use 6 dowels with tight setting on both sides they will fit perfectly. They are just a bit fiddly when changing widths. also a bit unwieldy when putting down and picking up.
when i do faces i have to get a rail of some sort to ref against.

it kinda gets annoying after 10 times so i checked the mafell rail and thought maybe a 'notched story stick' that's a rail can be used for both faces and edges.

yea i'd pay money for that

 

[usernumber1]

If I were to design a jig for the Domino, I’d make an H shaped part where the base of the Domino snugly slides into in either direction. The center of the H is wide and thick enough th slide in a rail marked with graduations. There would be a way to lockdown the H at desired locations. Multiple H parts could be mounted on the rail like storysticks.  I’d make the H parts out of some really tough plastic material and the rail out of aluminum.

i'd be down for that