David Rips
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I need to cut aluminum profiles for some outdoor furniture I'm making. Any know a good blade to use with my TS 55? There seem to be many to choose from.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Best Blade to Cut Aluminum
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David Rips
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Thanks. I've seen this blade advertised and it gets good reviews although few of them. I'm really trying to determine if I should use my DeWalt 12" Miter saw or my TS 55. This blade is expensive and I can't find any information about how long it will last. Miter saw blades are less, but I don't think I'll get as good a cut.
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How much are you cutting and what exactly? Can you describe the job in more detail?
I have multiple customers that cut aluminum all the time with Festool saws and they have never complained. One even replaced a really expensive saw designed to cut extrusions with a Kapex because the cuts were more accurate. They are big extrusions used for monster theater-type digital screens. The mating needed to be accurate and the Kapex beat out a machine that was many times more expensive.
Tom
I have multiple customers that cut aluminum all the time with Festool saws and they have never complained. One even replaced a really expensive saw designed to cut extrusions with a Kapex because the cuts were more accurate. They are big extrusions used for monster theater-type digital screens. The mating needed to be accurate and the Kapex beat out a machine that was many times more expensive.
Tom
David Rips
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I'm making long benches for installation on a Trex deck. I'm cutting 45x45 and 45x90 aluminum profiles for legs, braces and stretchers. I'm attaching wood for seats, backs and kickers. Using PVC caps for exposed profile ends. I'm concerned about the quality of the cuts where the profiles join at right angles. Hope that helps, and thanks.
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I still don't exactly know what you're cutting but it sounds like "L"-shaped extrusions?
If they are, set up is going to be trickier with a guide rail but can certainly be done more than one way. Try not to clamp the work on both sides of the blade.
I would have the saw fully plunged and play with the motor speed. Chances are good that you don't want it turned up all the way, but maybe it works better. I would set up so full plunge can be made because less of the blade is cutting the work and it should run cooler and easier.
My experience with aluminum is that it is a great heat sink so tooling doesn't tend to be the hot element in the cutting consortium. I've never had to use a cooling medium cutting aluminum. Steel is a different matter...
Just make sure, (as always), that you are cutting and not dwelling. If the saw speed is too high and the feed rate is too low, you will be dwelling. The cuttings remove heat from the blade. If the blade is dull or otherwise compromised, you will be dwelling. If you are not making good cuttings in any milling process, including drilling, you are dwelling and likely damaging the cutting tool. That includes softer materials.
I first learned that when I was a kid, a real kid - about 9 or 10. My father handed me his cool drill, (1-speed corded), and asked if I wanted to drill the next hole. Naturally I did, so he let me. We were drilling a piece of angle iron several times for mounting. When I drilled, not much happened except some little chunks. He said to push harder. I did to the best of my ability and then something burned me. I hesitated.
My dad snatched the drill from my hands and said I was dulling the bit. He finished the hole and made nice shavings the whole way.
Then, he pointed out the difference in the shavings he made and the chunks or squeaking noises that I made and explained the whole thing to me. I never forgot it.
Another thing I've learned is not to wear flip flops.
Tom
If they are, set up is going to be trickier with a guide rail but can certainly be done more than one way. Try not to clamp the work on both sides of the blade.
I would have the saw fully plunged and play with the motor speed. Chances are good that you don't want it turned up all the way, but maybe it works better. I would set up so full plunge can be made because less of the blade is cutting the work and it should run cooler and easier.
My experience with aluminum is that it is a great heat sink so tooling doesn't tend to be the hot element in the cutting consortium. I've never had to use a cooling medium cutting aluminum. Steel is a different matter...
Just make sure, (as always), that you are cutting and not dwelling. If the saw speed is too high and the feed rate is too low, you will be dwelling. The cuttings remove heat from the blade. If the blade is dull or otherwise compromised, you will be dwelling. If you are not making good cuttings in any milling process, including drilling, you are dwelling and likely damaging the cutting tool. That includes softer materials.
I first learned that when I was a kid, a real kid - about 9 or 10. My father handed me his cool drill, (1-speed corded), and asked if I wanted to drill the next hole. Naturally I did, so he let me. We were drilling a piece of angle iron several times for mounting. When I drilled, not much happened except some little chunks. He said to push harder. I did to the best of my ability and then something burned me. I hesitated.
My dad snatched the drill from my hands and said I was dulling the bit. He finished the hole and made nice shavings the whole way.
Then, he pointed out the difference in the shavings he made and the chunks or squeaking noises that I made and explained the whole thing to me. I never forgot it.
Another thing I've learned is not to wear flip flops.
Tom
David Rips
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Fantastic information. I greatly appreciate it. I've also learned the no flip flop rule. Even a small screw from 3 feet is a pointed reminder.
When making my work benches, I had to cut a number of 40 series extrusions. I tried once with a standard blade and promptly bought the aluminum blade Tom mentions. It works great with a very square cut and a nearly polished finish. I did learn a few things by trial and error. For me the "3" speed setting worked best. Second, you want to clamp the extrusion very securely.
[attachimg=1]
I used one extrusion as my guide bar secured from below and a flip stop out of the shot for repetitive cuts. I then used the surface clamps to push against the guide and the 2x4 on top. Why? Try it once without and the torque applied to the extrusion by the saw will amaze you.
Also as Tom says, keep your speed through the cut steady.
Good luck.
Dick Perry
[attachimg=1]
I used one extrusion as my guide bar secured from below and a flip stop out of the shot for repetitive cuts. I then used the surface clamps to push against the guide and the 2x4 on top. Why? Try it once without and the torque applied to the extrusion by the saw will amaze you.
Also as Tom says, keep your speed through the cut steady.
Good luck.
Dick Perry
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ccarrolladams
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I am one of Tom Bellemare's many customers who use Festool saws and blades to cut aluminum.
In addition to my custom cabinet business, in which we use TS55, TS75 and Kapex, I own a metal fabrication factory. My metal fabrication facility does a wide range of contract projects.
For cutting aluminum extrusions and sheet/plate, I find the Festool Aluminum/Plastic blade works as effectively as any I have tried and remains sharp also as well and as long as any. For cutting sheet/plate I use Festool guide rails and either a TS55 or TS75 depending on the thickness of the material. With the Festool blades I have not found use of coolant necessary.
For cutting bar stock and extrusions, I was a early adapter of the Tiger Stop, That firm makes a less expensive version call Saw Gear designed for woodworking. For cutting steel we use saws designed for the purpose with various kinds of blades. Originally one of the Tiger Stops we use to cut aluminum had an expensive saw that was accurate make right angle cuts, but not accurate making miters and bevels. Not long after buying my first Kapex for my woodworking I bought another for the metal fabricating. That same Kapex is still being used 6 and sometimes 7 days a week, with the Festool blade.
Let me add that I also use the Aluminum/Plastic blades with certain kinds of wood in the cabinet shop. Sometimes those blades make the best quality cut. Almost always one of the woodworking Kapex is fitted with an aluminum blade. We put one on a TS55 when needed for certain kinds of plywood.
In addition to my custom cabinet business, in which we use TS55, TS75 and Kapex, I own a metal fabrication factory. My metal fabrication facility does a wide range of contract projects.
For cutting aluminum extrusions and sheet/plate, I find the Festool Aluminum/Plastic blade works as effectively as any I have tried and remains sharp also as well and as long as any. For cutting sheet/plate I use Festool guide rails and either a TS55 or TS75 depending on the thickness of the material. With the Festool blades I have not found use of coolant necessary.
For cutting bar stock and extrusions, I was a early adapter of the Tiger Stop, That firm makes a less expensive version call Saw Gear designed for woodworking. For cutting steel we use saws designed for the purpose with various kinds of blades. Originally one of the Tiger Stops we use to cut aluminum had an expensive saw that was accurate make right angle cuts, but not accurate making miters and bevels. Not long after buying my first Kapex for my woodworking I bought another for the metal fabricating. That same Kapex is still being used 6 and sometimes 7 days a week, with the Festool blade.
Let me add that I also use the Aluminum/Plastic blades with certain kinds of wood in the cabinet shop. Sometimes those blades make the best quality cut. Almost always one of the woodworking Kapex is fitted with an aluminum blade. We put one on a TS55 when needed for certain kinds of plywood.
