Best caulk for sealing around the tub?

Bob Marino

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About 6 years ago, I had my second story bathroom completely done over. Since then I have recaulked around the tub a dozen times. In certain places there is a fairly wide gap between the top of the tub and the wall tiles. I have used silicone caulk with and without sand and within a matter of months always get cracks/splits in the caulk. Yes, I do clean and dry the area before re-caulking. Any suggestions?

Bob
 
John Bates said:

Duh! If I didn't move for the 16k in yearly real estate taxes for this 3 bedroom, 1 bath home, I sure ain't going to move about caulking. ;)

Bob
 
The best is silicone caulk.
Make sure you are using silicone caulk, thourougly remove the old caulk and let the cleaned out area dry out. If the space between the tile and tub is large, you can put in a foam filler rod and then seal with caulk.
It sounds like what you have been putting on is silconized latex caulk which is not suitable for bathtubs.
You also may be having problems because your tub is flexing and cracking the seal because there is no support under the base. This usually happens with improperly installed fiberglass tubs.
Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
The best is silicone caulk.
Make sure you are using silicone caulk, thourougly remove the old caulk and let the cleaned out area dry out. If the space between the tile and tub is large, you can put in a foam filler rod and then seal with caulk.
It sounds like what you have been putting on is silconized latex caulk which is not suitable for bathtubs.
You also may be having problems because your tub is flexing and cracking the seal because there is no support under the base. This usually happens with improperly installed fiberglass tubs.
Tim

Thanks Tim.

I have to go back and check about the caulk. Is Silicone caulk available with sand/grout, or is that to be avoided?

  Bob
 
Bob Marino said:
Is Silicone caulk available with sand/grout, or is that to be avoided?

Last time I checked, silicone caulk is available sanded but only in specialty bath/kitchen stores or by special order. Unfortunately what is often sold as "sanded silicone" is siliconized latex caulk so you must read the label.
Do not use grout between the tub and tile. It will fall out.
If you need to fill a large space and want sanded silicone it really isn't the best approach. Use the backing rod and then the silicone to seal.
You can test to see if you are getting flex between the tub and tile by either pushing down in the middle of the tub with the palms of your hand or stepping in the tub and walking back and forth while looking at the joint. I will be fairly evident.
Tubs with thin walls, tubs not set in a base to support the bottom or improperly sized joists are the usual problems. Water weighs a lot.
Tim
 
I use a product called Lexel.  It's available in your local Ace/True Value stores.  Very similar to silicone, flexible, adheres very well.  But definitely look into Tim's suggestions about movement first. 
 
I think Tim is right about movement/flex of the tub being the likely issue here.  Some questions, is this a fiberglass or acrylic tub?  Is there grout in the gap? 
 
Brice Burrell said:
Len C said:
expensive but might be cheaper in long run as it should not crack.  Hard to find locally.
http://www.amazon.com/9-81OZ-WHITE-KERDI-FIX-SEALANT/dp/B003K1NVY8

Just so you know, "Schluer" translates directly into "outrageously overpriced". [wink]

LOL. I like Kerdi products, perhaps that is my German bias.
That Kerdi sealant like the Lexel is definitely hydrophobic but over time may not necessarily stand up in a submerged situation. Some labels will even state clearly, not for submerged areas. Because this joint is subjected to areas that remain submerged for some period of time, and are sometimes exposed to caustic chemicals in cleaners even 100% silicone seal needs to be removed and reapplied every 10 years or so.
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Brice Burrell said:
Len C said:
expensive but might be cheaper in long run as it should not crack.  Hard to find locally.
http://www.amazon.com/9-81OZ-WHITE-KERDI-FIX-SEALANT/dp/B003K1NVY8

Just so you know, "Schluer" translates directly into "outrageously overpriced". [wink]

LOL. I like Kerdi products, perhaps that is my German bias......

It mush be a German bias thing because I believe Tom Bader likes Kerdi products too.  Me, I have zero interest the Kerdi system.  Don't get me wrong Schluer makes some nice stuff but they are like Hafele, with just a little effort you can find a similar product at half or a third of the price.       
 
Brice Burrell said:
I think Tim is right about movement/flex of the tub being the likely issue here.  Some questions, is this a fiberglass or acrylic tub?  Is there grout in the gap? 

 Could be some flex, but I thought the caulks would have some inherent flex in them? I guess it comes down to how much flex we are talikng about.
I know that when I recaulk tomorrow, I will have the tub half filled with water.
I'm not sure of the material of the tub, may even be cast iron?

Bob
 
Bob, if the tub has a cold metallic feel its cast, if it feels light and plastic like, its fiberglass or acrylic.  Generally, it's considered best practice to set fiberglass/acrylic tubs in a bed mortar so the base is fully supported.  They also need to be properly attached to the walls.  Low bid contractors don't always bother with the extra step of the mortar, nor correcting out of square walls so you get a nice fitting tub/tub surround.

Almost all caulks flex, its just a matter of how much and under what conditions.  100% silicone is the best, assuming you don't have a really big gap.  If we're talking 3/8" or less then silicone is good.  If the gap is 1/4" or bigger then you'll want to use backer rod.  The backer rod does two things, first it backs up/gives the caulk something to stop it from pushing all the way into a big gap.  Second thing is it gives the caulk the best shape/form for flex and adhesion.  The shape is sort of like an hour glass, wider on the ends for adhesion and thinner in the middle so it can flex without pulling itself off what it is adhered to.  Sizing the the backer rod correctly is also fairly important for the ideal caulk joint.  The backer should compress only enough to hold in place.  You don't want to jam a 1/2" backer in a 1/4" gap since it will reduce or eliminate the chance of the perfect hour glass shape for the caulk.  Check out this image to get an idea of what I mean.
       
 

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Bob,

Hi - is this the only bathroom?  Could moisture be a contributing factor?  I know when I need to do maintenance on our place, letting it dry out is always a hassle.

Cheers, Sam

Hey!  When is my order showing up?  I just ordered like yesterday!!! 
 
Samo said:
Bob,

Hi - is this the only bathroom?  Could moisture be a contributing factor?  I know when I need to do maintenance on our place, letting it dry out is always a hassle.

Cheers, Sam

Hey!  When is my order showing up?  I just ordered like yesterday!!! 

Yes, the only full bath, the other is in the basement. It's not moisture per say, it's clearly from the  cracks in the caulk.

B
 
  Thanks All,

Ok, off to buy some silicone caulk and foam backer rods. Perhaps the non use of the backer rods proved too much for the caulk in those deep/wide spaces.

Bob
 
Bob,

Another thing that you can do is fill the bathtub up with water prior to caulking.  That will widen the gap if there is tub movement.  Leave the water in until the caulk cures.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Bob,

Another thing that you can do is fill the bathtub up with water prior to caulking.  That will widen the gap if there is tub movement.  Leave the water in until the caulk cures.

Peter

Peter beat me to it.

This one tip is the best advice I've ever received on caulking a tub. It's worth its weight in...  well, water.

[big grin]
 
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