Best Clear exterior finish
- Thread starter Thompmd
- Start date
Don’t use Walnut? What is the project and can it be covered like patio furniture or under an eave like a door? Is it in direct sunlight? They do make transparent deck stains and Penofin has an oil based product that comes in Redwood and clear. You could try Ipe Oil or Natural in Penofins Architectural oil? There’s also boiled linseed oil. Just depends on the application and wood species. Walnuts a dark wood so a light oil or stain will still preserve the grain.
It’s a woodshed that I’m using the Walnut to wrap the exterior so it will be hung vertically against the treated frame. The location is in the edge of our woods so it does get a few hours of sun. It’s pretty open and gets good air flow. I just wanted a product that would slow the fading as much as I could.
You could try Osmo UV protection. I find it extends the recoat period by 2-3 times.
https://www.rawsunshinecoast.com.au/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil-extra/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://www.rawsunshinecoast.com.au/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil-extra/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
try this it will work, never tried it on walnut? What is your timeframe. If you’re not in a rush you could do a few test piece and leave it out in the elements, see what performs better. Aren’t there cheaper solutions to siding a shed? Is a woodshed to work out of or to store firewood or wood slabs?Thompmd said:
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It’s to store firewood. Most of my projects are Kiln Dried Walnut because I’m able to get the wood , sawed less than I can buy Pine at the box stores. I’m new to woodworking so this is a trial as well.
Wood Slabs I keep in my barn. I sell some to pay for my projects tools etc(I retired a couple years ago and stumbled into)
Wood Slabs I keep in my barn. I sell some to pay for my projects tools etc(I retired a couple years ago and stumbled into)
leakyroof
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- Mar 23, 2011
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I have built flower boxes, trimmed with Walnut, and finished the pieces with Epifanes Gloss Varnish, which is a Marine Varnish.
My sun exposure here in Chicago could be less than yours though.. [scratch chin] [scratch chin].
The biggest issue is what amount of maintenance do you want to live with for the Walnut. Oils could be much easier for a routine recoat compared to a yearly maintenance coat of varnish.
My sun exposure here in Chicago could be less than yours though.. [scratch chin] [scratch chin].
The biggest issue is what amount of maintenance do you want to live with for the Walnut. Oils could be much easier for a routine recoat compared to a yearly maintenance coat of varnish.
I do know to do both sides and I actually saw a finished walnut dining room table while on vacation in NY last year that only had 1-side finished and you could visibly see the cup in the table top and why the price had been marked down so much. Yikes
RightAngleDesign
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- Mar 9, 2019
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You'll do well to use EM9300 from Target Coatings. I've used it extensively here in the foothills of the Rockies and it really holds up to serious UV and weather.
Charles959
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- Dec 26, 2013
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- 71
cfcsdavid said:
General Finishes is recommended by Shaker Workshops:
https://www.shakerworkshops.com/sanding-staining-and-finishing-tips-for-kits.html
willowcreekww
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- Nov 10, 2020
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- 2
Hello,
Some recommendations based on personal use:
- Cabot Australian timber oil
- Base coat Waterlox original followed by multiple coats Waterlox marine, or Exterior water based products
- Base coat Marine Epoxy (i.e. West systems, System3, total boat epoxy sealer), followed by multiple coats of exterior rated varnish (epiphanes, Waterlox marine, or any Varnish of choice with UV blockers)
- General finishes Exterior 450 water based. I have found this product is better for vertical surfaces. If water sits on the horizontal surface, the finish becomes cloudy as it goes through moisture transfer. It eventually will resolve itself and clear up through evaporation and regaining equilibrium, but that could be a constant battle if constantly exposed to elements.
- Target EM 9300 water based. Can suffer the same horizontal surface challenges as Exterior 450, but I have found it to be much less sensitive.
Folks also recommend Sikkens / PPG Proluxe products, and others have advocated certain base tints of paint that dry clear. I have not tried these products.
Of course, your choice depends on budget, how easy you want the application to be, what you want the resulting look to be, and what maintenance schedule you want to be on. In my experience, and climate (Texas) ... Exterior penetrating oil needs to be refreshed every 9 months to yearly, clear film finishes every 2 to 3 years if completely left in the sun. Vertical surfaces may get more life depending on which direction they face the sun.
NOTE: Water based products over walnut can look very cold, so you may want to do a first coat in an oil based product or stain, then let dry for the applicable time depending on your choice of follow on UV top coats. Also I would not consider walnut a wood with the best outdoor properties, so you will have keep it thoroughly protected or mother nature will quickly take its toll.
My main disclaimer to all my clients with outdoor furniture, "there is no exterior finish that is invincible". All finishes will break down at some point depending on climate, cover (or lack thereof), and finish type. Clear finishes are less durable than solid or opaque finishes.
Some basic maintenance recommendations:
1) Wipe down monthly to avoid build up of dirt and grime
2) keep under cover if possible. UV is brutal, and I've witnessed finish lasting 2 to 3x as long just by being under a tree and out of direct sunlight and weather.
3) Refresh the finish when you start see cloudiness, lack of original color, or finish deterioration. Waiting too long results in cracks, peeling, and cellular breakdown of wood fibers, resulting in a lot more work to successfully refinish.
Regards
Some recommendations based on personal use:
- Cabot Australian timber oil
- Base coat Waterlox original followed by multiple coats Waterlox marine, or Exterior water based products
- Base coat Marine Epoxy (i.e. West systems, System3, total boat epoxy sealer), followed by multiple coats of exterior rated varnish (epiphanes, Waterlox marine, or any Varnish of choice with UV blockers)
- General finishes Exterior 450 water based. I have found this product is better for vertical surfaces. If water sits on the horizontal surface, the finish becomes cloudy as it goes through moisture transfer. It eventually will resolve itself and clear up through evaporation and regaining equilibrium, but that could be a constant battle if constantly exposed to elements.
- Target EM 9300 water based. Can suffer the same horizontal surface challenges as Exterior 450, but I have found it to be much less sensitive.
Folks also recommend Sikkens / PPG Proluxe products, and others have advocated certain base tints of paint that dry clear. I have not tried these products.
Of course, your choice depends on budget, how easy you want the application to be, what you want the resulting look to be, and what maintenance schedule you want to be on. In my experience, and climate (Texas) ... Exterior penetrating oil needs to be refreshed every 9 months to yearly, clear film finishes every 2 to 3 years if completely left in the sun. Vertical surfaces may get more life depending on which direction they face the sun.
NOTE: Water based products over walnut can look very cold, so you may want to do a first coat in an oil based product or stain, then let dry for the applicable time depending on your choice of follow on UV top coats. Also I would not consider walnut a wood with the best outdoor properties, so you will have keep it thoroughly protected or mother nature will quickly take its toll.
My main disclaimer to all my clients with outdoor furniture, "there is no exterior finish that is invincible". All finishes will break down at some point depending on climate, cover (or lack thereof), and finish type. Clear finishes are less durable than solid or opaque finishes.
Some basic maintenance recommendations:
1) Wipe down monthly to avoid build up of dirt and grime
2) keep under cover if possible. UV is brutal, and I've witnessed finish lasting 2 to 3x as long just by being under a tree and out of direct sunlight and weather.
3) Refresh the finish when you start see cloudiness, lack of original color, or finish deterioration. Waiting too long results in cracks, peeling, and cellular breakdown of wood fibers, resulting in a lot more work to successfully refinish.
Regards
