Best Kreg Pocket Hole setup

Kev

Kev

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Joined
Nov 7, 2011
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7,698
I've sat on the fence, but I'm going to do it ...

Now looking, there seems to be different jigs - looking at pictures the main jig in the "master system" looks different to the one in the "toolboxx master collection".

Which is the better setup? or am I just getting confused by images on amazon of old stock ... K2, K3, K4, etc?

Obviously question is "what am I going to do with it?" ... honest answer "don't know, play for a bit".

If I'm going to bother getting one though, I want the good one! Is it just a question of front clamp handle and screw down or rear clamp handle and clamp down?

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Any Snappy / Centrotec related info also appreciated.

Kev.
 
Go with the K4 I believe it is the front handle clamp. I found that when clamping wide boards it was necessary to reach around the board to find the handle to unclamp. having the clamp in the front is a plus. Been using pocket hole joinery for some time now,  simple, quick and strong. Now is use the DB55 pneumatic pocket hole jig to cut 99% of my joinery. Kept the K4 and set it up for the portable work.

 
Kev,
  I have been using the Kreg jig for years.  I like it a lot.
You will be able to hook up the CT vacs for great dust collection if you get the Kreg system with the dust port.
I believe I have the K3.  
I love to use the Domino 500 for building cabinets.  So when I add the pocket screws with the Domino mortise it
gives me one very strong joint.  I also have the newer insert for the jig.  The standard insert is blue, and the new one is black.  The new insert allows the user to drill pocket holes in 1/2 inch plywood.  It is very nice to have that ability.  Plus the newer insert drills a smaller pocket hole.  So it's not as big as the original insert.
I keep my Kreg jig screwed to a piece of 19mm ply so that I can take the whole set up and clamp it to a MFT table.
That way it doesn't move around on me while I'm drilling the holes.  The toggle clamp is in the front, which I like a lot because it's easy to tighten and loosen the board being clamped.  
I use the CXS to drill the screws in.  The bit that comes with the Kreg jig fit into the CXS with out the centrotec adapter and stays in place for the most part.  
It's a great jig.  Go with the newest version which I think is the K4.  I don't think you need that box they have, I personally think it's over priced for that box, a buddy of mine has a Stanley tool box that looks just like the Kreg box. And the Stanley box was $15.  I think once you buy it and play around with it you will enjoy the benefits of having it available.

Eric
 
I have too many of the Kreg setups.  For a full size version I prefer the clamp at the front and also have it mounted to a board that gets clamped down to a MFT.  That being said, I find that I actually use the R-3 more than all the others.  I like bringing the device to the work versus bringing the work to the device.

Peter
 
not sure which one i have but it has the main jig and 2 small free hand jigs.
i raraly use the free hand jigs but they are really handy on site when repairing pieces and for big pieces.

if i was getting another i would go for the one with the clamping handle on the front. my one drives me nuts at times. you have to be at the back to lock it but at the front to see the line

since i got the domino the kreg jig has been made reduntant for the majority of work. but it has it place

if you only plan on using it a few times here and there ,i would get the small portable one ,maybe even 2-3 to speed it up
 
I have the kreg jig, not sure which one.  But it does have it's place.  Cabinet Carcass - domino for alignment and pocket hole from top panel in order to have a clean side panel. 

I've used the pocket hole to install wainscoting at the butt joints.  Check out Gary Steigler with Fine Homebuilding. 

I'm working on refurbishing an old chair.  I need to add 3/4" ply to the back of the front legs to add strength since the old dowel is loose.  I can't use smaller dowels or the domino due to inaccurate references planes.  However, I can pocket hole the ply from the back and screw it to the underside of the chair.

It adds to your arsenal for a decent price.

 
I have a few Kreg jigs, and they have their uses in the field, but in the shop I have a DB55 (pneumatic version) and thats the cat's a##. The only thing I don't like on it is the factory oiler can't keep up with production work, but I've found that a few drops of oil in the hose before using and it works great.

Mike
 
Go with the front handle, and get the set that has both a bench mount unit and a clamp on (portable) unit for the jig block.  I mostly use the bench unit, but having both is very good.

You need to do a little adapting to fit the D27 hose, but it works very well. The suction even helps hold pieces (even large ones) while you throw the clamp. There are quite a few hose adapters for this on FOG.

Seth
 
I bought the masterboxx,twice as big as the basic tool box ,everything they make for 300 minus 50 rebate, 2 incidental items
 
You want the "board" to have extensions to the right and left to support large panels. On mine a piece of 1/4 plus a piece of 3/4 was dead flat with the jig. Clamp the board to an MFT and have at it. My extensions go out about 16"s on each side and that has worked for me. Get Torx pocket screws from a specialty store and 6" Torx driver. Dial down your drill so you get a good ratchet. The CXS is dreamy with pocket screws, good luck, Eric
 
Eoghan Brown said:
Go with the K4 I believe it is the front handle clamp. I found that when clamping wide boards it was necessary to reach around the board to find the handle to unclamp. having the clamp in the front is a plus. Been using pocket hole joinery for some time now,  simple, quick and strong. Now is use the DB55 pneumatic pocket hole jig to cut 99% of my joinery. Kept the K4 and set it up for the portable work.
Click to expand...

Ditto on whichever product has the front handle.
 
The C12 is great with pocket screws too, the clutch is good enough to count on to get them tight but not over drive.

This has been posted in other threads but here is mine.  Pics don't show them, but I have T bolts with knobs at each end for attachment to the T tracks in my bench.

[attachimg=#]

[attachimg=#]

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
Go with the front handle, and get the set that has both a bench mount unit and a clamp on (portable) unit for the jig block.  I mostly use the bench unit, but having both is very good.

You need to do a little adapting to fit the D27 hose, but it works very well. The suction even helps hold pieces (even large ones) while you throw the clamp. There are quite a few hose adapters for this on FOG.

Seth
Click to expand...
i agree, get both
The big kit for the shop,and a portable for field work.
Use a plug in drill and hook it to a ct vac,and go for it. Good set up
Chuck
 
Thanks for all the responses.

In true Festool fashion the correct answer to which item is not A or B or C ... it's D (all of the above) [big grin]

It's good to understand the differences of the various bits - ironic that you get the best Kreg tool insight and advice on the FOG ! ... Go FOG.

The DB55 Foreman here is $1,595 [scared] - I wouldn't consider something like that unless I both fell in love with pocket holing and also gave birth to a major project - hey, this is all a hobby!

I've alway been a fan of skew nailing or screwing for the added strength, but have been hesitant in relation to pocket holes as (at least from appearances) there's little meat involved when you're connecting a ply sheet corner of relatively thin stock. But consensus all seems to be positive on Kreg pocket hole quality and strength - so why the heck not try it.

Plus it'll probably save me from buying another truck load of Besseys  [unsure]

 
Just hunting round to buy ... am I right in thinking you can't get the front clamping K3 model without buying that silly toolbox? There's plenty of options for the K4 in sensible packages.
 
+1,000,000 on the front handle. I have the K2 and hated reaching over larger pieces to unclamp, clamp, rinse & repeat. I bought the K3 master system pre tool box when it was nicely packed in a molded plastic box...used the kaizen foam and have that comfortably resting in a pillow of Fastcap foam.

I gave the K2 to a friend. Nuff said!

I also have the electric Foreman in the shop!

Bob
 
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