Best router bit for flush trimming Melamine/Solid surface ply

[ear3]

I'm going to be redoing a series of table tops using a 12mm/1/2" laminate coated veneer core ply which I've never used before, called Colorfin, which is made by the Finnish company Koskisen: http://www.roberts-plywood.com/colorfin-koskisen---koskidecor.html

Since I'm sizing it to the existing tops, I will be routing everything flush -- we're talking in total perhaps 200 linear feet of flush trimming for all the tables involved (the edges will be left exposed, without any banding).  I just got a good deal on a gently used OF2200, so I was hoping to use this project as a way to break in the router -- I figure the extra wide base, power, and constant speed under load will ensure a clean edge.

I've done very little work with laminates, so I'm uncertain about the best router bit to use for all this flush trimming -- one that is sturdy enough to trim the 12mm plywood, avoids chipout on the laminate, and will stay sharp through so much routing.

I assume a standard 2-flute flush trimmer is not the best option, as the blade will likely chip from the melamine.

The other two options I thought of are the down-cut spiral compression bit:

http://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-RFTD5200-Diameter/dp/B0012JGBX8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1446296180&sr=8-3&keywords=spiral+flush+trim+bit+down+cut

Or the Whiteside ultimate trim bit:

http://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Model-UDC9112-Spiral-Combination/dp/B009102BMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1446296257&sr=8-1&keywords=whiteside+ultimate+trim+bit

EDIT: And is it standard practice to also bevel the edge of pre-laminated ply, the way one does when you apply the laminate yourself, like with this sort of bit [I don't have an MFK or a laminate trimmer with an angled base]:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2G3NQ?keywords=laminate%20bevel%20router%20bit&qid=1446296856&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

[waho6o9]

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs

Considering the scope of your project I'd send an email to Whiteside and ask for their expertise.

I've used the bit in your second link on 2 pieces of ply 3/4" thick and the results were perfect.

 

[tjbnwi]

Use the combination bit.

Beveling the edge may not be a bad idea, without edge banding protecting the top sheet edge it may get chipped more easily.

2200 will work just fine to do this, actually its a little over kill. Practice with it to get used to the weight and balance.

Tom

 

[ear3]

Thanks [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]  Would the Ultimate combination trim bit work just as well with the 1400?  I was thinking the 2200 just because I've heard that particular combination bit needs a heavy duty router.

Use the combination bit.

Beveling the edge may not be a bad idea, without edge banding protecting the top sheet edge it may get chipped more easily.

2200 will work just fine to do this, actually its a little over kill. Practice with it to get used to the weight and balance.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Thanks [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]  Would the Ultimate combination trim bit work just as well with the 1400?  I was thinking the 2200 just because I've heard that particular combination bit needs a heavy duty router.

Use the combination bit.

Beveling the edge may not be a bad idea, without edge banding protecting the top sheet edge it may get chipped more easily.

2200 will work just fine to do this, actually its a little over kill. Practice with it to get used to the weight and balance.

Tom

The 1400 will turn that bit with no problem at all. You should be making a trim cut of 1/8" or less. Any more than 1/8", creep up on the final cut. You don't want to hog cut the finished surface.

That said, use the 2200, you bought it, put it to work. The reason I said to practice is the offset handles take a little getting used to. The handle position is great, just something new. 

Tom

 

[rvieceli]

Since you've gotten some advice on the router bits, let me interject a couple of things you may or may not have thought about. And it might not make any difference overall.

When you cut the existing edge on the straight side of the table, you'll expose the underlying ply layers. While similar, they will be different from the stuff you are making the top out of.

the existing table ends will probably still have the white lacquer coating intact. This will be a further departure from the look of the sides. Just something to think about.

It also looks like the Colorfin comes in 48x96 sheets from your link. Will you be able to efficiently use that size material based on the current table set up? Do you need to keep the current separations where they connect together with the countertop bolts or does it never need to come apart?

Ron

 

[ear3]

Thanks Tom.

Thanks [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]  Would the Ultimate combination trim bit work just as well with the 1400?  I was thinking the 2200 just because I've heard that particular combination bit needs a heavy duty router.

Use the combination bit.

Beveling the edge may not be a bad idea, without edge banding protecting the top sheet edge it may get chipped more easily.

2200 will work just fine to do this, actually its a little over kill. Practice with it to get used to the weight and balance.

Tom

The 1400 will turn that bit with no problem at all. You should be making a trim cut of 1/8" or less. Any more than 1/8", creep up on the final cut. You don't want to hog cut the finished surface.

That said, use the 2200, you bought it, put it to work. The reason I said to practice is the offset handles take a little getting used to. The handle position is great, just something new. 

Tom

 

[ear3]

Thanks [member=3192]rvieceli[/member] .  I'm going to rout off the lacquered edges of the existing top, and then flush trim the Colorfin to it.  The existing top is Baltic Birch, so the ply pattern actually matches that of the Colorfin.

In terms of sizing, that's where it will get "interesting", as there has been a request that I follow the existing pattern of panels so the table could at some point be broken down (each 20' x 5'4" table is made up of 6 panels: 4 rectangular ones in the middle approximately 32" x 84", and then 2 on either end of 32" x 36" which have the rounded corners).  I'm going to attach the new top with screws coming up from the bottom, and then use some sort of adhesive and clamps along the edge so there is no gap between the new top and the old one underneath.  The issue will be how to get the panels aligned so that there is no gap between them, particularly at the intersection between the 4 rectangular panels.  My plan was to do a split kerf cut, first on the long side of each pair of rectangles, and then (after I've trimmed either edge of each joined pair), do a split kerf cut where the two pairs meet in the middle of the table.  Ideally I would do this on a long work table I'm going to set up, but realistically, since any movement of the boards will shift the alignment after the kerf cut has been made, I will have to do this with the boards lying directly on the table, and then cover up the resulting saw cut that will be visible on the edge of the old top with some filler.

So it's going to be tricky.
 

Since you've gotten some advice on the router bits, let me interject a couple of things you may or may not have thought about. And it might not make any difference overall.

When you cut the existing edge on the straight side of the table, you'll expose the underlying ply layers. While similar, they will be different from the stuff you are making the top out of.

the existing table ends will probably still have the white lacquer coating intact. This will be a further departure from the look of the sides. Just something to think about.

It also looks like the Colorfin comes in 48x96 sheets from your link. Will you be able to efficiently use that size material based on the current table set up? Do you need to keep the current separations where they connect together with the countertop bolts or does it never need to come apart?

Ron

 

[Claimdude]

Edward,

I have the Whiteside spiral flush trim bit in your second link and I wouldn't hesitate to use it in the application you have. It is my go to bit for flush trimming no matter the material.

Jack

 

[ear3]

Thanks Jack.

Edward,

I have the Whiteside spiral flush trim bit in your second link and I wouldn't hesitate to use it in the application you have. It is my go to bit for flush trimming no matter the material.

Jack

 

[Brent Taylor]

Edward,  I done laminate work for years and the spiral bits are the ones I've been using. I really like the Whitesides 1/8" with the brass bearing, it's a 1/4" shank, but I thought you have a1400  so you have a collet for you 2200. You shouldn't need anything bigger than a trim router though.  Give that little bit a try, let think you'll be happy with the results.