Best Router bits to start with?

[jeffinsgf]

I really appreciate all the great feedback, this is very helpful and I agree that set of Bosch bits I have, I've used maybe 5 or 6 of those.

I think I'll get a few of the Amana and Wookpeckers, Pattern, flush cut bits to start with. Now to figure out the mix of 1/2" or 1/4" LOL, I've only ever purchased the 1/4" so the OF 1400 EQ being able to accept 1/2" will be great.

Figuring the mix is easy. 1/2" shank whenever you possibly can. 1/4" when that's the only option. That may be a little bit of an oversimplification, but you'll figure out the exceptions along the way.

 

[Packard]

I'm in the UK so I can't advise you on US brands. But whichever you choose - buy an aerosol can of PTFE dry lubricant, and coat your bits thoroughly before you use them. It will drastically reduce the amount of resin and other sludge which builds up on the bit and shortens its life. Give the bit a wipe over and re-coat after you've used it.

Will it affect subsequent application of a finish? PTFE can be difficult to remove entirely.

 

[rmhinden]

I feel like I'm the only one that gravitates towards 8mm shank regardless of having a 1/2 motor.

No, you are not. I prefer 8mm shank bits in my OF1010 and Shaper Origin, but I do use 1/2" shank bits in my router table.

Bob

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Will it affect subsequent application of a finish? PTFE can be difficult to remove entirely.

Not at all - the amount of dry PTFE remaining on the material surface is virtually zero. If you want to be 100% sure - most commercial PTFE aerosols use acetone as a solvent. Give the surface a wipe over with 99.9% pure solvent after machining - and you’ll be good. Even without doing this, I’ve never experienced a problem.

 

[Packard]

Not at all - the amount of dry PTFE remaining on the material surface is virtually zero. If you want to be 100% sure - most commercial PTFE aerosols use acetone as a solvent. Give the surface a wipe over with 99.9% pure solvent after machining - and you’ll be good. Even without doing this, I’ve never experienced a problem.

Thanks. Good to know.

I know that silicone can be extremely difficult to remove effectively. The solvents tend to simply displace the silicone with some adhering to the wiping cloth.

Back on topic, I have had very good experience with Uxcell’s carbide tipped forstner bits (available on Amazon) and I have recently tried one of their router bits which was also entirely satisfactory. None of the bits have become dull but I was not keeping track of the machine-hours, no untimely failures and nice clean cuts.

These are definitely “economy”. For example, a 25mm forstner bit with carbide cutters is just under $9.00.

Search in Amazon under “Uxcell store”. They have an enormous array of products, so they must be outsourcing most of them. I don’t know if my experience with their forstner bits and router bits would transfer to their other products.

I’m sure that all their products are imported and are likely to go up in price shortly.

 

[PaulMarcel]

The ones I use most would be:

• down-spiral 1/2" double-bearing flushing - I like spirals and they last forever; double bearing ensures more registration. Excellent for flushing hardwood banding
• double-bearing compression flushing 1/2" spiral - this is the one I use for following patterns; I prefer the pattern on the bottom (hand-held) or top (table) since it limits the exposed bit. Especially good for veneered panels since both sides cut into the stock
• 1/8" slot cutter - I use this a lot when I've been stuck (too many times) to make some tongue & groove ply; slot both pieces, then make a floating tenon of 1/8" Baltic birch. This might be more specialized, but handy when making overhead storage at a studio and a bunch of theater props
• rebate bit with a variety of bearing diameters; the bearings will be useful a lot of times with other bits, but especially with a rebate bit if you can't use a fence to limit the depth
• dish carver - looks like a flat surfacing bit, but the edges are radiused making lap marks disappear when making a big pocket; these are usually inexpensive
• chamfer bit - usually pretty inexpensive and handy to add nice chamfers

Another thing to consider when picking up a bit is using parts of the profile. I got a gorgeous "linen fold" bit on clearance at my local Woodcraft and have used it countless times to steal parts of the profile to apply to stock. I have yet to use it as-is for the whole profile. Long ago, Charles Neil (RIP) had a custom profile made just for that purpose with a lot of sections that could be used everywhere in a project. Credit to him for pointing out the idea

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I feel like I'm the only one that gravitates towards 8mm shank regardless of having a 1/2 motor.

Not necessarily. I really like 8mm bits, but they are not as easy to find, especially the more specialty shapes. I have to order them on-line, since no one stocks them locally....in a city of over 1 million.
I have quite a few 1/4" shank bits, because of so many trim routers. Almost all of them are really small diameter though, nothing bigger than 1/2".
For the next step up in bit sizes, I move to the OF1010, and 8mm shanks. Over the years, I have collected quite a few. It was very intentional though, because of owning the OF1010. I really like them, for a lot of jobs, where the bit is bigger than 1/4".
1/2" shank bits where my most common, until the 8mm hit that sweet spot, where a full-sized router was a bit much, but a trimmer would be overwhelmed. I used to buy almost everything in 1/2", other than the trimmer-specific bits, mostly because I could use them in the router table too.
Can you use a 1/4" diameter spiral flush trim bit in a Milwaukee 5615-20 or OF1400? Sure, but it is major over-kill. There is no point whatsoever to using a 16lb (8kg) plunge router in a situation where an 18v cordless trimmer can do the same thing.
I have found myself duplicating some of the medium sized bits with 8mm, where my original is 1/2". That way, I have a choice of router, for a particular bit size.
Take all of this with a grain of salt though, I use all of this to earn a living, in a cabinet shop. Speed/efficiency matters, where a home-shop/hobby user, probably wouldn't invest in so many duplicates. In my situation, I have at least a couple of different ways to do everything, sometimes more.

 

[rst]

After 50 years of routing, I only buy good bits, Amana, Whiteside, Freud and CMT altough there are also other really good manufacturers. Miles away from my initial Craftsman sets. Also depends on bit size your roter accepts.

 

[leakyroof]

I feel like I'm the only one that gravitates towards 8mm shank regardless of having a 1/2 motor.

You are NOT alone. I was just slow getting on the 8mm shank wagon until I owned Festool routers that had collets to fit them... For those 8mm shank bits, I have bought mine in the past from Lee Valley.

One thought for the OP, if you don't have a Router Table, you may want to buy some router bits in 1/2" shanks with an eye towards being able to easily use some common bits in either free hand router or a table mounted router in your Future. Like Round Over bits or other common bits.
Plus 1 on keeping bits and bearings clean. I think my worst culprit for a mess on the bits or their bearings is trimming Laminate.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I think my worst culprit for a mess on the bits or their bearings is trimming Laminate.

Absolutely! It's even worse with a down spiral flush trim bit. I do my fair share of metal laminate, and it's pretty much a requirement with that stuff. A normal straight cutting bit will raise quite a bur, even with brand new sharpness. The down cut gives a much cleaner cut, but it also throws all of the chips, dust, etc. straight at the bearing.