best saw blade for mitre cut on a Ts55
- Thread starter stefano
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woodbutcherbower
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The standard 48-tooth will be just fine.
Crazyraceguy
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The standard blade is ATB. It will be fine for your plywood project.
Hi Crazyraceguy and many thanks for your help.
The question I can't really understand is how to choose the right hook angle for my tack saw.
I mean, in a mitre cut set up which hook will be better? a positive or negative one? and which angle range should I take care?
for example 5 degree of minus 5 degree? to achieve the best result with a minimum effort in a plywood or in a medium density wood?
I appreciate any major help you guys can give to me, bye
The question I can't really understand is how to choose the right hook angle for my tack saw.
I mean, in a mitre cut set up which hook will be better? a positive or negative one? and which angle range should I take care?
for example 5 degree of minus 5 degree? to achieve the best result with a minimum effort in a plywood or in a medium density wood?
I appreciate any major help you guys can give to me, bye
woodbutcherbower
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[member=76731]stefano[/member] You're over-thinking this.
Don't worry about anything you mentioned above - the combination of the TS55 fitted with the 491952 48-tooth blade is designed to do exactly what you need. It's literally the benchmark standard for the entire industry. Both [member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] and myself are long-time, experienced professional woodworkers who make these cuts all day, every day. Hundreds every month - maybe more - and often in materials such as laminate and veneered boards which are way more delicate and prone to chip-out than plywood.
A sharp blade + a good-condition splinterguard on the rail + a good-condition splintershoe on your saw + good dust extraction will result in a cut which looks like it's been done using a laser.
Don't worry about anything you mentioned above - the combination of the TS55 fitted with the 491952 48-tooth blade is designed to do exactly what you need. It's literally the benchmark standard for the entire industry. Both [member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] and myself are long-time, experienced professional woodworkers who make these cuts all day, every day. Hundreds every month - maybe more - and often in materials such as laminate and veneered boards which are way more delicate and prone to chip-out than plywood.
A sharp blade + a good-condition splinterguard on the rail + a good-condition splintershoe on your saw + good dust extraction will result in a cut which looks like it's been done using a laser.
mino
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As mentioned by more serious folks above.
I would add that you want to get/have the 28T wood blade for your "casual" cuts. The 48T one is precisely for the cases where you need/want super-smooth cut finish, mitters, etc.
The negative rake blades /on a tracksaw/ are for aluminum only. Even for laminate/MDF/chipboard you want a positive rake blade like the original Festool ones are.
If you are not sure what blades to have as the basic set - above the factory provided 48T one - start with these two:
The 28T wood blade
- this is ideal for "casual" cuts, it still very smooth and allows for faster cutting /the saw does not need to work so hard as with the 48T blade
The 52T MDF/Laminate blade
- this is ideal for what it says on the tin - any MDF, Laminate or chipboard cuts
/note: it is actually required for those, the standard wood blades will clog and burn if used with non-wood boards, same as the laminate one one would burn with wood/
I would add that you want to get/have the 28T wood blade for your "casual" cuts. The 48T one is precisely for the cases where you need/want super-smooth cut finish, mitters, etc.
The negative rake blades /on a tracksaw/ are for aluminum only. Even for laminate/MDF/chipboard you want a positive rake blade like the original Festool ones are.
If you are not sure what blades to have as the basic set - above the factory provided 48T one - start with these two:
The 28T wood blade
- this is ideal for "casual" cuts, it still very smooth and allows for faster cutting /the saw does not need to work so hard as with the 48T blade
The 52T MDF/Laminate blade
- this is ideal for what it says on the tin - any MDF, Laminate or chipboard cuts
/note: it is actually required for those, the standard wood blades will clog and burn if used with non-wood boards, same as the laminate one one would burn with wood/
