best setup for using TS75 to joint long boards

[bk3132]

Hello everyone,

I recently started up a small business making signs, art and furniture using traditional tools and a ShobBot CNC router. For my work I need edge glued hardwood panels. My baby jointer and lunchbox planer work fine for panels that are 24" or shorter, but the jointer's infeed and outfeed tables are just too short for longer stock. I'm trying hard not to buy a big expensive jointer, especially since I have a track saw.

I have had mixed results jointing with the TS75. The fact that it has actually worked well enough leads me to believe that the failures are operator error and not the tool  [smile]

So my question is this: what's the best way to joint with a track saw -- especially the actual physical set up of the track(s), boards etc? I don't have an MFT table, but I did make this workbench, which is 36x72:

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I don't want to cut into the top, so I use rigid foam insulation panels under the tracks. I have also tried inserting dowels and referencing the tracks off the dowels to get a precise, snug fit. But I haven't clamped the tracks down, which is maybe the problem?

Is there some sort of semi-permanent set up that would streamline my process?

Thank you!!

 

[duburban]

I hate to say it... but... you need a jointer.

I've had success with this as well as marginal success. I'd look elsewhere, personally.

If you were working on-site all the time I'd say come up with a system but if you're in a shop anyhow its a "no brainer".

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum !  [smile]

  Works best to split the kerf between the two boards that will be joined. Principle is that two sides of the same cut have to match.  Here is a link to a full description with pictures.

   http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/edge-jointing-a-countertop-with-the-ts75-(or-ts55)/

Seth

 

[semenza]

I did a bunch of shimming and planing and such for the job in that write up. But if you are using pretty flat 3/4" boards , then most of that extra  will not be needed.

Also, not sure if it is that how -to, but sometimes you need to do it twice if the gap is greater than the kerf at any point.

Seth

 

[waho6o9]

After ripping stock sometimes I use a Veritas edge trim plane which works well.
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[bk3132]

Thanks!

That's very interesting. I've seen this video, which is a similar approach.

I'm intrigued by screwing the boards before cutting with the TS. That would certainly remove some human error variables. But if you need to cut twice, that seems like a pain. And what if your gaps are more than the blade kerf? Then do you rip both edges first, then screw everything down and rip the gap?

 

[bk3132]

After ripping stock sometimes I use a Veritas edge trim plane which works well.
View attachment 1
View attachment 2

Cool! I've never seen one of those. Thanks.

 

[waho6o9]

You're welcome

 

[Svar]

I don't have any special setup. Just clamp and rip and its good for gluing 95% of the times.

 

[semenza]

Thanks!

I'm intrigued by screwing the boards before cutting with the TS. That would certainly remove some human error variables. But if you need to cut twice, that seems like a pain. And what if your gaps are more than the blade kerf? Then do you rip both edges first, then screw everything down and rip the gap?

Screwing the boards down was just a good way to keep everything in place for that job. Generally clamps for the two boards involved will work. Sometimes I use screws so that there is nothing in the way of the track or saw. I also straight line the boards using the track saw first. It is rare when the gap is wider than the kerf. If that happens just make the cut push them together again and repeat. The first cut will take enough off to bring them closer for the second.

That video is the method exactly. Also the clamping method is worth noting, good one.

Seth

 

[sancho57]

Seth,

I reread that post where you explained how to joint with a TS. Interesting I know I read it before and I found that there were some steps in the process I forgot all about and one I didnt pick up on. That was using the 85 for planing the boards to size. I always used the RO150 even though I have a 850. Yer right about it taking a lot of time to sand the boards to even the them out. Next time Ill use my planer.

Thanks for the repost see Ilearned something tonight

 

[Ajax]

Very cool.

One question, how did you start the cut with almost no rail overhang?

 

[zapdafish]

After planing. For thick stock I use the ts75 for a straight edge and then run it through the tablesaw with a freud glue line rip blade. Most of the time I use the ts55.

Primary lumber I use this process on is white/red oak and yellow pine.

the panther blade cuts like butter but for whatever reason, the 75 doesnt leave as clean a cut as the 55