Best tracksaw sheet good kit

treesner

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Sep 1, 2015
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Hey guys what's the best kit to buy or put together for cutting up Baltic birch plywood.
I'd like to go battery for convenience but there's so many options for batteriess/chargers/tracks/blades ect. Seems like ts55 would be best in terms of size. Also do they come in inches or just metric?

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Also Itd be nice to have the option of cutting miters

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Festool has both the TS55 and the TSC55 - Both work well for cutting sheet goods. 

The TS55 corded saw ships with a 55" rail.  Depending on how far you want to push it, you can ask your dealer to exchange the 55" rail for a holey rail of the same length if you have eventual need for the 30mm hole drilling system from Festool.  If not, the 55" rail will cross-cut 4x8 sheets.

The TSC55 is the cordless version and can be ordered with or without a rail.

So if you want to go battery, something like the TSC55 with two batteries in the kit with a charger.  You MIGHT consider an extra two batteries if you are doing production work and want one set of batteries to charge while the others are in use.  It will run on one battery, but much cutting and I think you'd prefer two on the saw at one time.  If I were buying one, I'd go with the package deal that includes the 2 5.2AH batteries and guide rail  for $825.  That includes the dust bag and rail and you are ready to cut sheet goods. 

If you dial back to the corded saw and rail, it's $660.  It includes the rail, but no bag and no dust collector.  So you'll need to think about whether you use an existing dust collector or opt to purchase a dust collector as a package deal and save 10% on the dust collector when purchased together.

I'd suggest that you consider an additional 55" rail and two rail connectors if you are going to be cutting 8' pieces.  This gives you portability and flexibility with the saw.  Some professionals or serious amateurs may buy a longer second rail, but I have not found the need to do so for most of my work as a serious hobbiest.

If you are ripping hardwood, you might consider a ripping blade that will make rip cuts a lot easier with a more aggressive tooth pattern.  For baltic ply, the standard blade will work great.

I would purchase a pair of Festool's 491594 quick clamps.  They slide in the T-slot under the rail and do a great job of allowing you to clamp down the rail to the sheet goods. 

The saws can be found in inch or metric versions depending on what the dealers have in stock.  The legacy version was metric only but they are now slowly moving over to imperial versions.  You can order a conversion kit from Festool if you decide to change from one to the other in the future.

If you want to cut miters with the saw, your best option is probably a MFT table with the fence which would enable accurate cross cutting and take the saw to a new level of functionality.  Plus the table is an excellent assembly table or just general work table in your shop or job site. 

Hope that helps answer your questions. 

neil
 
TS55 is an absolute beast at cutting sheet goods. I cut around 50 sheets a month with my ts55 and wouldn't want anything else.

Personally i'd always go for the 240v as batteries annoy me but thats personal preference and use.

 
Can't speak to the battery powered track saws, don't have one.  I do have a 20 v 6 1/2" Dewalt and I love the convenience.  Having said that, if I'm using dust collection, I have a power cord Velcro wrapped to my 36mm hose, so there's no need for batteries.

So for cutting up Baltic sheet goods:
1) some type of track saw (I use a TS 75) - depending upon how much you want to spend - Malfel 55 at the top, Makita SP6000J at the bottom, with Festool TS55 or 75 in the middle. 

2) If you go with a Festool saw, then get 2 of the FS1400 rails - one comes with the saw; sounds like you might be making cabinets, so I would "up-grade" without added charge to the holey rails and also get the LR32 shelf-hole drilling set.  With 2 of the 1400 rails combined, you have 110" of track, allowing you to rip a 96" sheet - if you don't mind starting with a plunge cut (use the anti kick-back fitting that comes with the saw).  Rails can be joined with either the Festool or Makita (better in my opinion) rail connectors (you need 2).  To ensure total linearity of the 2 rails I also use a Betterley SLC23 straight line connector to aline the rails while joining.  With the 2 rails you can rip and cross-cut sheet goods.

3) For a cutting surface there is nothing like the Festool MFT/3 tables.  There are as many opinions as there are woodworkers as to whether you get the complete table or the basic table.  Were I to do it again, I'd get basic.  With 2 tables you can set them up side by side or end to end.  I would do my cuts on the table surface supporting sheet over-hand with 2 or more saw horses each having a working height of 900 mm (the working height of the MFT/s.

4) For squareness, I would recommend a combination of short and long Qwas Dogs, Parf Dogs, Rail Dogs, or the like.  These allow 90 degree, and 45 degree cuts (though I've never tried it, theoretically with the square spacing of the table holes, 30 degree and 60 degree cuts should be easily done).  and

5) To ensure squareness, I would recommend at a minimum a great square like the Woodpecker 1281.  I also use the Anderson phenolic plywood square (my go-to tool of this) and a Woodpecker 26" square.

I apologize for the long response, but there are a few additional incidentals which you will also find useful, such as the Festool Parallel Guides, to aid in making parallel cuts.

Hope this helps.

DrD
 
Are you workshop based for your work? I've no experience of the battery plunge saw, but working indoors a dust extractor is pretty much essential. The time saving of working clean rather than keep sweeping up really adds up. Festool dust extractors switch on with the saw, so I'd advise getting the corded saw and dust extractor.

I'd also counsel against the "two short rails joined together for long cuts" approach. I've wasted a lot of time that way. I recently bought a 2700 mm guide rail, and every time I use it, I rejoice. If you add up the cost of the extra 1400 rail, the rail joiners, and the Betterly joiner thingy you are most of the way to the price of the long rail.

Bear in mind the right dust extractor also will work with the sander, domino jointer that you'll find yourself needing....
 
I have all the rail sizes but my most used rails are the 3000 and 1900.  After years of PITA rail connecting, I bought the 3000.  I do most of my sheet break downs with a TS75 so the longer rails work better for me.  My 55 stays with my MFT, and I have the HKC for stick work.
 
Ross 71 said:
Are you workshop based for your work? I've no experience of the battery plunge saw, but working indoors a dust extractor is pretty much essential. The time saving of working clean rather than keep sweeping up really adds up. Festool dust extractors switch on with the saw, so I'd advise getting the corded saw and dust extractor.

I'd also counsel against the "two short rails joined together for long cuts" approach. I've wasted a lot of time that way. I recently bought a 2700 mm guide rail, and every time I use it, I rejoice. If you add up the cost of the extra 1400 rail, the rail joiners, and the Betterly joiner thingy you are most of the way to the price of the long rail.

Bear in mind the right dust extractor also will work with the sander, domino jointer that you'll find yourself needing....
I've got a ct36 in a small shop. I throw an insulation panel in the driveway and cut up ply there so I'd rather not drag the vac out for that. Dust bag looks pretty decent on festool as well.

I've heard similar on one long track. I buy 5x5 frequently as well so the shorter track it comes with would still need to be joined for that

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neilc said:
Festool has both the TS55 and the TSC55 - Both work well for cutting sheet goods. 

The TS55 corded saw ships with a 55" rail.  Depending on how far you want to push it, you can ask your dealer to exchange the 55" rail for a holey rail of the same length if you have eventual need for the 30mm hole drilling system from Festool.  If not, the 55" rail will cross-cut 4x8 sheets.

The TSC55 is the cordless version and can be ordered with or without a rail.

So if you want to go battery, something like the TSC55 with two batteries in the kit with a charger.  You MIGHT consider an extra two batteries if you are doing production work and want one set of batteries to charge while the others are in use.  It will run on one battery, but much cutting and I think you'd prefer two on the saw at one time.  If I were buying one, I'd go with the package deal that includes the 2 5.2AH batteries and guide rail  for $825.  That includes the dust bag and rail and you are ready to cut sheet goods. 

If you dial back to the corded saw and rail, it's $660.  It includes the rail, but no bag and no dust collector.  So you'll need to think about whether you use an existing dust collector or opt to purchase a dust collector as a package deal and save 10% on the dust collector when purchased together.

I'd suggest that you consider an additional 55" rail and two rail connectors if you are going to be cutting 8' pieces.  This gives you portability and flexibility with the saw.  Some professionals or serious amateurs may buy a longer second rail, but I have not found the need to do so for most of my work as a serious hobbiest.

If you are ripping hardwood, you might consider a ripping blade that will make rip cuts a lot easier with a more aggressive tooth pattern.  For baltic ply, the standard blade will work great.

I would purchase a pair of Festool's 491594 quick clamps.  They slide in the T-slot under the rail and do a great job of allowing you to clamp down the rail to the sheet goods. 

The saws can be found in inch or metric versions depending on what the dealers have in stock.  The legacy version was metric only but they are now slowly moving over to imperial versions.  You can order a conversion kit from Festool if you decide to change from one to the other in the future.

If you want to cut miters with the saw, your best option is probably a MFT table with the fence which would enable accurate cross cutting and take the saw to a new level of functionality.  Plus the table is an excellent assembly table or just general work table in your shop or job site. 

Hope that helps answer your questions. 

neil
Thanks for the answer, are the clamps necessary to hold it down? Hoping I could just put it on my insulation panel and cut into that on the driveway. Kind of a pain to clamp since there's not really overhang

Do you need the mft for miters or does it just make it easier? Will normal track and ts55 do miters?

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DrD said:
Can't speak to the battery powered track saws, don't have one.  I do have a 20 v 6 1/2" Dewalt and I love the convenience.  Having said that, if I'm using dust collection, I have a power cord Velcro wrapped to my 36mm hose, so there's no need for batteries.

So for cutting up Baltic sheet goods:
1) some type of track saw (I use a TS 75) - depending upon how much you want to spend - Malfel 55 at the top, Makita SP6000J at the bottom, with Festool TS55 or 75 in the middle. 

2) If you go with a Festool saw, then get 2 of the FS1400 rails - one comes with the saw; sounds like you might be making cabinets, so I would "up-grade" without added charge to the holey rails and also get the LR32 shelf-hole drilling set.  With 2 of the 1400 rails combined, you have 110" of track, allowing you to rip a 96" sheet - if you don't mind starting with a plunge cut (use the anti kick-back fitting that comes with the saw).  Rails can be joined with either the Festool or Makita (better in my opinion) rail connectors (you need 2).  To ensure total linearity of the 2 rails I also use a Betterley SLC23 straight line connector to aline the rails while joining.  With the 2 rails you can rip and cross-cut sheet goods.

3) For a cutting surface there is nothing like the Festool MFT/3 tables.  There are as many opinions as there are woodworkers as to whether you get the complete table or the basic table.  Were I to do it again, I'd get basic.  With 2 tables you can set them up side by side or end to end.  I would do my cuts on the table surface supporting sheet over-hand with 2 or more saw horses each having a working height of 900 mm (the working height of the MFT/s.

4) For squareness, I would recommend a combination of short and long Qwas Dogs, Parf Dogs, Rail Dogs, or the like.  These allow 90 degree, and 45 degree cuts (though I've never tried it, theoretically with the square spacing of the table holes, 30 degree and 60 degree cuts should be easily done).  and

5) To ensure squareness, I would recommend at a minimum a great square like the Woodpecker 1281.  I also use the Anderson phenolic plywood square (my go-to tool of this) and a Woodpecker 26" square.

I apologize for the long response, but there are a few additional incidentals which you will also find useful, such as the Festool Parallel Guides, to aid in making parallel cuts.

Hope this helps.

DrD

Thanks for your thoughts
Is a square necessary? Can I just make two marks and put the track up to it?

I was hoping the track saw was going to make it simpler to cut up sheet goods accurately but it's sounding like it takes a lot of tools and setup. Maybe I should just stick to my home made track guide and cordless Milwaukee
 
[member=57611]treesner[/member]

It's not as cumbersome as it looks, but having said all that, before I went Festool (kind of a retirement gift from my wife) I did quite well using the 20v Dewalt, a sheet rock T-square as a saw guide, a couple of c-clamps to hold the square to the sheet, and a pencil.

As for the 60" x 60" sheets, that sounds like high quality Russian ply,  Can't find that around here, but sure wish I could.

DrD
 
DrD said:
[member=57611]treesner[/member]

It's not as cumbersome as it looks, but having said all that, before I went Festool (kind of a retirement gift from my wife) I did quite well using the 20v Dewalt, a sheet rock T-square as a saw guide, a couple of c-clamps to hold the square to the sheet, and a pencil.

As for the 60" x 60" sheets, that sounds like high quality Russian ply,  Can't find that around here, but sure wish I could.

DrD
This stuff is actually lower quality but still 13 layer and way better than box stores. 1/2 sheet is only $20

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For cutting sheet stock square and cutting miters on counter tops I built this track-saw protractor. The fence pins in on 5 degree increments and can be locked in anywhere on the scale. Because of the large sweep (28") it is easy to split a degree by 1/4 or less.

 

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Oldwood said:
For cutting sheet stock square and cutting miters on counter tops I built this track-saw protractor. The fence pins in on 5 degree increments and can be locked in anywhere on the scale. Because of the large sweep (28") it is easy to split a degree by 1/4 or less.

Oh, I like this. Have you shared details on making this in another thread somewhere?
 
If you're looking for a quick way to make a 90 deg cut, the Qwas Square is a low cost item - sets up in less than a minute, easy to remove, how fast can up lossen up 2 wing nuts?  I've always found it to dead on accurate; read the instructions, follow the instructions, HAPPY, HAPPY, HAPPY.  Now this is assuming you are using a Festool or Makita Guide Rail, or some other rail with a raised channel running along the length of the rail.

DrD
 
treesner said:
Hey guys what's the best kit to buy or put together for cutting up Baltic birch plywood.
I'd like to go battery for convenience but there's so many options for batteriess/chargers/tracks/blades ect. Seems like ts55 would be best in terms of size. Also do they come in inches or just metric?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[member=57611]treesner[/member] I see a lot of good advice in the responding posts. The battery or AC power question should take into account your  work environment as it relates to volume of work and cleanliness needs. If you're going to have a CT dust collector (highly recommended) you'll need AC power anyway. At least start thinking in that direction. If you can always cut on your back porch in the California sunshine and need no or little dust collection, you can use the cordless like [member=30413]mike_aa[/member] is using.
Several of the names I see on this thread own one of our GRS-16 Guide Rail Squares. Ask them if they would be willing to sell you theirs and you'll get an idea how useful this accessory is.
When you get around to squaring up your MFT-3 or other perforated 20mm worktop look up what we offer for free download and imminent new Precision Triangle release .

Hans
info@tsoproducts.com
 

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Bob D. said:
Oldwood said:
For cutting sheet stock square and cutting miters on counter tops I built this track-saw protractor. The fence pins in on 5 degree increments and can be locked in anywhere on the scale. Because of the large sweep (28") it is easy to split a degree by 1/4 or less.

Oh, I like this. Have you shared details on making this in another thread somewhere?

Hi Bob,

No I have not shared the details of these anywhere. I sell them locally and have discussed selling through a distributor but nothing is set at this point. All the parts are cut on the CNC and need to fit well for the protractor to function properly. The version I am producing has a 4`fence but other than that it is pretty much the same as the one in the pictures.

We find it indispensable for counter top installations.

Thanks,
Gerry
 
treesner said:
Thanks for your thoughts
Is a square necessary? Can I just make two marks and put the track up to it?

I was hoping the track saw was going to make it simpler to cut up sheet goods accurately but it's sounding like it takes a lot of tools and setup. Maybe I should just stick to my home made track guide and cordless Milwaukee

As always, the sky's the limit in terms of accessories, and which ones you find useful versus anyone else is quite personal. I reckon you've been offered almost every possible accessory in those previous posts.

You can totally just put two marks on the board, line the track (or joined tracks) up, and saw away and get fantastic results. I would guess they would be slightly better/easier results that your existing setup in that you get a non-slip track, and the saw rides on the track without the need to keep pressure against the saw guide.

The mentioned accessories seem to offer benefits in the following ways - Batteries = portability, clamps = less chance of error due to movement, dust collection = health and less clean up, parallel guides = consistency, square guides = accuracy, long tracks = convenience, blades = quality.

I would say simply start with the TS55 and enough rail length (maybe a "Holey rail" to be future compatible) and add on as you feel the need. After all, there doesn't seem to be any way in which it gets cheaper by buying more things at the same time.

 
TSO Products said:
treesner said:
Hey guys what's the best kit to buy or put together for cutting up Baltic birch plywood.
I'd like to go battery for convenience but there's so many options for batteriess/chargers/tracks/blades ect. Seems like ts55 would be best in terms of size. Also do they come in inches or just metric?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[member=57611]treesner[/member] I see a lot of good advice in the responding posts. The battery or AC power question should take into account your  work environment as it relates to volume of work and cleanliness needs. If you're going to have a CT dust collector (highly recommended) you'll need AC power anyway. At least start thinking in that direction. If you can always cut on your back porch in the California sunshine and need no or little dust collection, you can use the cordless like [member=30413]mike_aa[/member] is using.
Several of the names I see on this thread own one of our GRS-16 Guide Rail Squares. Ask them if they would be willing to sell you theirs and you'll get an idea how useful this accessory is.
When you get around to squaring up your MFT-3 or other perforated 20mm worktop look up what we offer for free download and imminent new Precision Triangle release .

Hans
info@tsoproducts.com

That looks like a nice square

Per your dust collection question yes I can cut outside year round which I do. If I wanted to hook up dust collection to the battery powered saw I'm pretty sure it allows that. I love the ease of cordlesss tools and less clutter the thing that has me thinking otherwise is the price of the tool and knowing that batteries always die and get out dated over time, corded seem to last forever

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