Best way to add a spacer between dog holes and track saw rail for a long rip?

[gearhound]

I'm in the process of building a custom MFT-like top and want to rip just a bit of this walnut edge banding off. Is there an easier way than ripping a custom spacer to put in between the dog holes and the rail?....I want to reference off of the dog holes to keep it square and matching with an additional side panel that also has dog holes.
I've tried searching and I must not be using the right terminology or I'm being stupid and not thinking...I'm going to be cutting all 4 sides and just wondering if there's a quicker way than making a custom spacer for each side?

Cheers,
Matt

[attachimg=1]

 

[TSO_Products]

Hello Matt,
Help me be sue I understand your objective: do you plan to attach a vertical panel to the side of your bench? and do you intend for this panel to align with the hole pattern on your existing top?

- if so:
you could use our Parallel Guide and register the FlipStop off a straight piece of material like the one next to your guide rail in the picture. Rest your plywood straight edge behind a pair of Dogs. Set your Parallel Guide FlipStop against that plywood straight edge and GO!

If I misunderstood, let me know.
info@tsoproducts.com
Hans

 

[gearhound]

Hello Matt,
Help me be sue I understand your objective: do you plan to attach a vertical panel to the side of your bench? and do you intend for this panel to align with the hole pattern on your existing top?

- if so:
you could use our Parallel Guide and register the FlipStop off a straight piece of material like the one next to your guide rail in the picture. Rest your plywood straight edge behind a pair of Dogs. Set your Parallel Guide FlipStop against that plywood straight edge and GO!

If I misunderstood, let me know.
info@tsoproducts.com
Hans

Thanks for the response, Hans.

I've attached an image showing how I'm planning on doing the top and side panel...the dog holes will be lined up on the top and side so I can use that straight line as a reference point for squaring up joints/glue-ups and provide clamping options.

When my budget allows, I'm planning on picking up your parallel guides and rail connector as they look like nice pieces of kit! Are they sold anywhere in Colorado so I could see them in person?

Cheers,
Matt

[attachimg=1]

 

[PaulMarcel]

I guess I'm thinking that if I was trying to rip a bit off the walnut edge, I'd just use a small combo square set to how much I want to remove. Put the rail near the outside edge, push back the front using the square, push back the back end using the square. Re-verify, clamp, rip.

If the outside face of the walnut isn't square to the holes and you are trying to correct that, I think I'd correct the field of holes first then rip the walnut as explained above. If it isn't square, but you cut using the dog holes, you'll have oddly tapered walnut sides that would drive me nuts.

 

[Grev]

My solution would be similar to what Paul said, only using my shop made slide stops to position the guide rail.  Use the combo square to make sure both slide stops are exactly the same, then lock down.  The slide stops are simple to make .. just cut some 1.5" -2" strips and add a 1/4" slot to attach the knobs and some short dogs to.  If you don't want to make the slide stops, use the same method, just clamp some stops. 

 

[gearhound]

My solution would be similar to what Paul said, only using my shop made slide stops to position the guide rail.  Use the combo square to make sure both slide stops are exactly the same, then lock down.  The slide stops are simple to make .. just cut some 1.5" -2" strips and add a 1/4" slot to attach the knobs and some short dogs to.  If you don't want to make the slide stops, use the same method, just clamp some stops. 

I guess I'm thinking that if I was trying to rip a bit off the walnut edge, I'd just use a small combo square set to how much I want to remove. Put the rail near the outside edge, push back the front using the square, push back the back end using the square. Re-verify, clamp, rip.

If the outside face of the walnut isn't square to the holes and you are trying to correct that, I think I'd correct the field of holes first then rip the walnut as explained above. If it isn't square, but you cut using the dog holes, you'll have oddly tapered walnut sides that would drive me nuts.

Thanks for the help guys! The table top is square, I just used way too thick of edge-banding and flush-trimming it with my palm router was a messy pain in the a$$....I made this jig (https://www.woodsmith.com/article/easy-to-build-flush-trim-jig/) but was still getting gouging starting the cuts and even managed to tilt the router a bit and make un-level cuts. It's been a few years since I've edge banded anything and I foolishly had way too much material to remove on both sides of the plywood.

I decided to just rip all the walnut off yesterday. Since it's just a workbench top, I'm thinking of skipping the hardwood edge-banding but it does look really cool and would provide some protection while rolling the workbench around my garage. Is there a good jig anyone can recommend for edge banding hardwood with my router? I see fastcap makes one (https://www.fastcap.com/product/little-lipper) that I'm considering getting, but seems pricey for what it is.

Cheers,
Matt

 

[TSO_Products]

[member=63307]Grev[/member] - nice little shop-made Dog Stops - just paint them TSO Blue and you got it  [smile]

[member=62622]gearhound[/member] - no TSO Dealer in Colorado, just customers.

Fwiw: I would use  the tracksaw for prepping the edge before adding the hardwood edgebanding - rather than trying to do it with a router - unless you have something like an OF1400 and use the guide rail as a straight edge.

Don't overthink it

Hans

 

[woodferret]

Is there a good jig anyone can recommend for edge banding hardwood with my router? I see fastcap makes one (https://www.fastcap.com/product/little-lipper) that I'm considering getting, but seems pricey for what it is.

You've probably already tried the standard shimmed offset base.  Try it with a flat-bottom dish carving bit though.  It's a tad bit more forgiving on grain (more that it's forgiving when you take too deep a pass). 

There are some sheer-angled bottom cutters too out there will would also alleviate the issue (eg Festool 500368 or Trend 37/1X1/4TC), but dish bits are cheaper and easier to source in general.

Only downside is the bit travel distance limits the height of the edge banding overage.  But it's nothing double-sided tape and extra shims to do a pre-pass can't fix.

 

[Coen]

you could use our Parallel Guide

Any word on when they will be available again? I've only seen them unavailable the last two months. (The set with 30+50 was available for a while, but the shipping costs to NL when the 50" are in there is $$$ so I'm looking at the set with 30" only.)