Best way to finish old barn boards

Jonhilgen

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I got my hands on some old Georgia barn boards and the Mrs. would like me to make a tall mirror frame for her.  The boards looks fantastic as is, but they are dirty and smell a little musty.  Any suggestions?

Thanks guys,

Jon
 
Is there any finish on the boards now?

How about a few pictures?

Tom
 
Tom,

No finish on them.  Here's some pics.
 

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You won't be able to clean them with out changing the "character" of the boards. If that is the way you want them to look, I would blow them off with compressed air, then shoot 2 or 3 coats of shellac on them. The shellac will seal in any of the "old" that remained and should seal off the oder. From there you can top coat if you wish. Test on a piece to see if you like the process and finish.

Tom
 
I have some shellac, so I'll test a board out.  She really likes the dry look of the existing boards, so I would like to maintain the look.  But if that isn't possible, I'll just have to spray shellac.

Thanks for your input Tom.

Jon
 
As porous as those boards look, without sanding it would take 100 gallons of shellac to get rid of the dry look. You just going to be seeling in the oder and dust you could not blow off.

Tom
 
For reclaimed wood, I have had success using a solution of murphy's oil soap and citrus solvent with a little warm water which I use to scrub the wood with a hard brown bristle broom and let the wood dry ( don't do this in sunlight.)
Then, I machine plane the underside and lightly hand plane the top while being mindful of not losing any of the character.  For finishing, I like to hand rub Tung Oil cut with citrus solvent...some guys like varnish blends...boat finishes, etc. Hope this helps.
 
Brush the boards vigorously with a stiff bristle or wire brush.  Blow off with compressed air.
 
NYC Tiny Shop said:
For reclaimed wood, I have had success using a solution of murphy's oil soap and citrus solvent with a little warm water which I use to scrub the wood with a hard brown bristle broom and let the wood dry ( don't do this in sunlight.)
Then, I machine plane the underside and lightly hand plane the top while being mindful of not losing any of the character.  For finishing, I like to hand rub Tung Oil cut with citrus solvent...some guys like varnish blends...boat finishes, etc. Hope this helps.

What do you mean by citrus solvent?

 
Tim,

Festool even makes one.  NAINA of course...I've seen the Makita one on THO, and have wanted one since.  It just makes an unholy amount of dust.

Jon
 
Test pieces with a bristle brush and a quick coat of shellac...
 

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She loves it.  In fact, she likes the shellacked areas better.  Thanks!

Just need to build the frame now...

Jon
 
Jon Hilgenberg said:
She loves it.  In fact, she likes the shellacked areas better.  Thanks!

Just need to build the frame now...

Jon

Sometimes I get lucky.

Tom
 
The solvent solution would have cleaned the bacteria that was most likely causing the funky smell...now, by just applying shellac over the stinky wood, (...BTW, I'm a big fan of home-made shellacs) you have essentially locked in the bacteria-rot!  I don't know how many years you'll get out of your piece with your recent chosen method?  My Dad once said, " If you dress sh.t up with something pretty, what do you really have? If this wood and your project are important to you, then I recommend doing more research.  Shellac is a great sealer, but will it keep the bacteria in for many years to come?  I don't think so.  I hope this helps.
 
Alcohol kills bacteria and mold also. It will seal in any of the odor.

For all we know the smell could have just been the dust and absorbed odors for the previous enviorment.

Tom
 
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