best way to show a Newbie the advantage of the FESTOOL Track Saw vs table saws
- Thread starter Klemm
- Start date
For me, it came down to space. While I've had a 50" Unisaw for almost 20 years, I could have gotten by with one much smaller if I needed one at all if I'd had a track saw. The table saw takes up a significant amount of space. Now that I have a track saw, I rarely need that wide of a table, but I could really use the rest of the real estate in my shop back. In my mind, they can both have their places, especially if you need the power for some hardwoods, but the track saw is my go-to saw along with the Kapex.
Just saying.....
Karl
Just saying.....
Karl
tjbnwi said:
How can it be more efficient? With a table saw you set the fence at 1 inch for example. Then you slide the wood against the fence and rip. And repeat all day long. With the track saw you measure the 1 inch. Then align the rail on both ends of the board. And clamp it in place. Then run the saw along the wood. Then REPEAT all of this again to cut another 1 inch strip. How do you define efficient?
Michael Kellough
Member
Russel, you can make a very simple jig to eliminate the measuring step if all the rips are the same size. Even if they are different sizes gauge blocks can be used to to position the stock in regular steps.
I do think a table saw is faster but it has to be there and it requires more than twice the length of the stock.
Another point is that when cutting natural wood into narrow strips you're more likely to encounter stressed sections that warp and press against the blade. I think this is less of a problem with the track saw.
I do think a table saw is faster but it has to be there and it requires more than twice the length of the stock.
Another point is that when cutting natural wood into narrow strips you're more likely to encounter stressed sections that warp and press against the blade. I think this is less of a problem with the track saw.
Not quite. You can use feather board. When the stock you are cutting from is narrow it starts to bow with every strip you cut while reliving stress. On a table saw you will produce uniform thickness regardless of bow, especially if your fence is set up the European way (ends at the blade). With track saw there is nothing you can do (your track is straight), except attach your narrow stock to another wider piece to straighten it. In addition, on a table saw you can slice your stock all the way down to the last 1/16”, not that easily done with the track.Michael Kellough said:
Somebody asked which track saw. I think that is much less important than track saw versus other option.
Does the table saw make a difference, certainly. Slider users have a definite case their way is best. A large cabinet saw is much different from a little portable.
But no other option guides the cut on both sides. A circular saw and guide can allow the saw to wander away from the guide. A table saw requires a power feeder or good technique to keep the wood against the fence. The track saw is much less sensitive to technique. The saw has to follow the rib in the track. Slack is only what you let it be. Especially for less experienced users, I think this is a major advantage.
With respect to narrow rips, I use my table saw most of the time. I have parallel guides and my own design track positioning gauges so I can cut narrow pieces without measuring and consistently. But it is still more work than just setting the rip fence and cutting. I have 8 foot plus clearance on both sides of the saw so normally that is not an issue. If I needed to cut a narrow piece off a wide board, I would use the track saw. A narrow piece off a narrow piece of wood I would definitely use the table saw. I've used scrap under the track so I could rip a narrow piece with the track saw but it's difficult to clamp doing this and without clamping, sometimes the track moves. If your wood is very flat, you don't need to clamp. But if it isn't, clamping is a good idea.
Best way to understand the advantage of a track saw is just to use one.
Jim
Does the table saw make a difference, certainly. Slider users have a definite case their way is best. A large cabinet saw is much different from a little portable.
But no other option guides the cut on both sides. A circular saw and guide can allow the saw to wander away from the guide. A table saw requires a power feeder or good technique to keep the wood against the fence. The track saw is much less sensitive to technique. The saw has to follow the rib in the track. Slack is only what you let it be. Especially for less experienced users, I think this is a major advantage.
With respect to narrow rips, I use my table saw most of the time. I have parallel guides and my own design track positioning gauges so I can cut narrow pieces without measuring and consistently. But it is still more work than just setting the rip fence and cutting. I have 8 foot plus clearance on both sides of the saw so normally that is not an issue. If I needed to cut a narrow piece off a wide board, I would use the track saw. A narrow piece off a narrow piece of wood I would definitely use the table saw. I've used scrap under the track so I could rip a narrow piece with the track saw but it's difficult to clamp doing this and without clamping, sometimes the track moves. If your wood is very flat, you don't need to clamp. But if it isn't, clamping is a good idea.
Best way to understand the advantage of a track saw is just to use one.
Jim
oakhilltop
Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2015
- Messages
- 32
I have the mft3 and after last night know that I'm still figuring it out. [unsure]
I do find that for a lot of repetitive cuts, I go to the table saw with a cross cut sled or stop block on the miter gauge. With the mft, you have to make the cut, and I take the saw off of the track before lifting (I probably need to learn to not to do that), then move the cut piece, put the next piece in, put the track down, make sure the track lines up in the notch, start the saw and cut. On the table saw, it is just cut, pull the sled back, move the cut piece, put the next piece on and cut. I find the table saw quicker for that situation, but I don't run into that very often.
I also find the table saw more stable, but this could be me. Last night, I got everything square on the mft3, made some cuts, checked them for squareness, then later made more cuts. The later cuts were off a little, and when I checked the mft3, things had moved a bit. And, yes, I had tightened the clamps down pretty good. I moved the protractor clamp even closer to the rail and I'll see if that makes it more stable. I like the mft/track saw. The dust collection is great, and I do think that it is safer, but it has taken some getting used to for me.
I do find that for a lot of repetitive cuts, I go to the table saw with a cross cut sled or stop block on the miter gauge. With the mft, you have to make the cut, and I take the saw off of the track before lifting (I probably need to learn to not to do that), then move the cut piece, put the next piece in, put the track down, make sure the track lines up in the notch, start the saw and cut. On the table saw, it is just cut, pull the sled back, move the cut piece, put the next piece on and cut. I find the table saw quicker for that situation, but I don't run into that very often.
I also find the table saw more stable, but this could be me. Last night, I got everything square on the mft3, made some cuts, checked them for squareness, then later made more cuts. The later cuts were off a little, and when I checked the mft3, things had moved a bit. And, yes, I had tightened the clamps down pretty good. I moved the protractor clamp even closer to the rail and I'll see if that makes it more stable. I like the mft/track saw. The dust collection is great, and I do think that it is safer, but it has taken some getting used to for me.
Tom,
I'm interested in how you make the track static. It seems you would have to either not clamp it and lift slightly to put the new piece under it or loosen the clamp if you are clamping to move the new piece under the track.
I have found a learning curve for my track saw not really different from that with other tools except perhaps a bit larger because of the versatility of the saw. I'm sure I have more to learn.
Jim
I'm interested in how you make the track static. It seems you would have to either not clamp it and lift slightly to put the new piece under it or loosen the clamp if you are clamping to move the new piece under the track.
I have found a learning curve for my track saw not really different from that with other tools except perhaps a bit larger because of the versatility of the saw. I'm sure I have more to learn.
Jim
tjbnwi
Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2008
- Messages
- 7,391
JimD said:
One of the biggest issues is, most think the work piece must go under the rail, this is not true. The narrow rips I posted the picture of, only part of the work piece that went under the rail was the "keep" piece. As long as there is enough material to get the "keep" piece it can be cut with the track saw.
Here is a thread with links to other threads;
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/ripping-boards-with-ts55req/msg262215/#msg262215
Tom
If the newbie has never used either then the only choice is a tracksaw. A tablesaw will be necessary at some point as it is easier to use, more accurate, and quicker to setup than a tracksaw is. The issue with a newbie on a tablesaw is safety and the potential for serious injuries.
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