best wood species for interior doors

[cfullen]

Hey guys.

I've been asked to build a set of bi-fold french doors with glass "lites".  Normally I would use poplar laminated to 1 3/4" thick, but I am concerned that any warping will make these doors look horrible.  What is the most stable wood for interior doors?  We are painting them, so apearance is not a concern. 

Thanks in advance!

 

[tjbnwi]

QSWO or mahogany.

Tom

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

QSWO or mahogany.

Tom

To paint?  Granted I paint a lot of mahogany screen doors.

Soft maple would be my choice.

 

[tjbnwi]

QSWO or mahogany.

Tom

To paint?  Granted I paint a lot of mahogany screen doors.

Soft maple would be my choice.

That would work also.

Tom

 

[cfullen]

Soft maple?  I guess I have never thought about this as a product used for large projects.  I actually was thinking about using Mahogany. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Soft maple?  I guess I have never thought about this as a product used for large projects.  I actually was thinking about using Mahogany.

Tool it before you cut it to size. Give it a week or so after tooling.

Tom

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I have painted hard maple as well.

As tom said, mill it just over sized and let it sit for a week stickered.

Doors require well dressed and prepared stock.

 

[cfullen]

Isnt there a user on here that makes some awesome doors?  I think I have come across his projects in the past, but have not had luck finding him.

 

[JimD]

Letting the wood settle after milling to rough dimensions makes sense.  Wood commonly moves as material is removed.  Laminating would help since each layer is unlikely to want to move the same way.  Getting quarter sawn material would also help.  You can recognize it by looking at the end grain.  Quarter sawn material will have growth rings that go almost straight across the end grain.  If the board is flat, the grain rings would go top to bottom.  Flatsawn material will have quarter sawn material, or nearly so, in the center board. 

If you need to use material that is not quarter sawn, looking for a ratio of tangential to radial shrinkage nearly one will minimize movement.  Sassafras, Hickory and Walnut are all around 1.5.  Most woods are nearly 2.  Poplar is not bad at 8.2 Tangential and 4.6 Radial or a little over 1.5.  Poplar also paints and machines well.  It would be my first choice. 

Movement from moisture doesn't happen, of course, unless moisture level changes.  Finishing all the surfaces can minimize moisture changes in the wood.

 

[tjbnwi]

I make a lot of doors.

The link is mahogany, the photo is QSWO.
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/CSAP?noredirect=1

Tom

 

[cfullen]

Tom, that is some beautiful work!  Thank you for sharing with me. 

I lived in Indiana for a long time.  Miss that place sometimes. 

 

[Billedis]

If I am going to paint the doors, I would not want to use QSWO, mahogany, or walnut as why would you want to cover up that beautiful wood.  I would use doug fir as it is less expensive, and what I have encountered, pretty stable.  Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.  Bill

 

[tjbnwi]

I can get QSWO easier than VGDF. I get mine directly from the mill at a really good price.

Tom

 

[w802h]

Different woods paint differently.  Maple or Poplar tend to paint smoother than coarser grains like Doug Fir - not that one is more correct - just different looks.  If you aren't adverse to laminating, could you veneer hardwood onto an LSL or LVL core?

 

[cfullen]

I certainly could veneer hardwood onto a lvl core, but I would rather avoid that if I can.  I would rather use 8/4 lumber that does not require laminations if I can. 

The more reading I do, I am leaning towards QSWO.

 

[tjbnwi]

I certainly could veneer hardwood onto a lvl core, but I would rather avoid that if I can.  I would rather use 8/4 lumber that does not require laminations if I can. 

The more reading I do, I am leaning towards QSWO.

Not sure where you moved to but this is the go to for QSWO (Union City, Indiana);

http://www.frankmiller.com

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

I have 3- 2.25" QSWO french doors waiting for glass. The material cam from FML.

Tom

 

[cfullen]

I moved way far away from there.  Unfortunately too far to make the drive make sense.  If this project hit me a month ago, and we had this talk.  I would have made a trip for the 500 and some wood!

 

[Cheese]

I make a lot of doors.

The link is mahogany, the photo is QSWO.
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/CSAP?noredirect=1

Tom

The mahogany door is stunning.

Is there a reason you miterd the rail & stile rather than straight cut them? I assume it's to pick up the angles of the floating panel.

Did you do anything additional to prevent the mitres from opening?

 

[Billedis]

I can get QSWO easier than VGDF. I get mine directly from the mill at a really good price.

Tom

I sure wish Indiana was closer to me as I love QSWO.  Thanks Tom.  Bill