Bit for router hole drilling?

[clisbyclark]

I just ordered the basic hole drilling kit wtihouth the bits.  I plan on using 1/4 pins (unless you guys tell me why I shouldn't), but was wondering what is the best type of bit to use?  Straight, upcut, or downcut?  thanks

 

[Brice Burrell]

I've used to 1/4" bit, straight, upcut and downcut bits, they all worked. I use use Festool 5mm bits now because I think the smaller 5mm holes a look a little better. I really like the Festool brad point bit 491066. It produces a super clean cut.

 

[Bill in seattle]

hello
there are two bits  you can use, a v bit 491064 or brad point 494066. they will both drill very clean holes. I used to make closet packs and have drilled a bizilion holes before the automatic machines came along. the v points are better for thru holes and the brad point for blind holes. on the thinner woods like 5/8 or 1/2 the v point depths have to be calibrated very close  or the pins may not seat all the way in, and/ or you run the risk of blowing thru the backside if your wood thickness's vary a little,use the brad point on thinner woods.
If you clamp two panels together you can drill both at the same time saving some time. (presuming you won't see one side or need a center panel with holes on both sides.
when thru boring on delicate materials for 2 sided holes use a spoilboard behind the back side to help prevent chip blowouts/tears.
5mm is more common today as it makes smaller more unobtrusive holes. also you can use the euro 5mm screws for the hinges and drawer guides in the holes if you plan it out.
another tip if your doing plywood is to plunge each hole twice, the second time seams to clean up the hole and after you stain/finish the panel you don't seem to have to use pliers and fight the pins into the holes if it swells a little.

 

[Corwin]

Nice info Bill!

 

[Greg_R]

If you are drilling a _LOT_ of shelf pins then you may want to take a look at this jig that I recently completed.  It allows me to run an entire board at once w/o resetting the jig.  I found it to be faster than the Festool LR32 system for shelf pins _only_ (LR32 system has a lot of other uses and advantages).  Here is the link to the detailed design considerations and construction of the jig. 

 

[Dave Ronyak]

hello
there are two bits  you can use, a v bit 491064 or brad point 494066. they will both drill very clean holes. I used to make closet packs and have drilled a bizilion holes before the automatic machines came along. the v points are better for thru holes and the brad point for blind holes. on the thinner woods like 5/8 or 1/2 the v point depths have to be calibrated very close  or the pins may not seat all the way in, and/ or you run the risk of blowing thru the backside if your wood thickness's vary a little,use the brad point on thinner woods.
If you clamp two panels together you can drill both at the same time saving some time. (presuming you won't see one side or need a center panel with holes on both sides.
when thru boring on delicate materials for 2 sided holes use a spoilboard behind the back side to help prevent chip blowouts/tears.
5mm is more common today as it makes smaller more unobtrusive holes. also you can use the euro 5mm screws for the hinges and drawer guides in the holes if you plan it out.
another tip if your doing plywood is to plunge each hole twice, the second time seams to clean up the hole and after you stain/finish the panel you don't seem to have to use pliers and fight the pins into the holes if it swells a little.

Thanks for the great info.  I have used Festool's brad-tipped 5 mm bit and confirm what Brice B. stated compared to ordinary fluted straight bits.  Please note that the 5 mm shelf supports marketed by Rockler are a very sloppy fit in the 5 mm holes drilled with Festool's bit.  They are unacceptable for fine work in my opinion.

Dave R.

 

[eweber]

Please note that the 5 mm shelf supports marketed by Rockler are a very sloppy fit in the 5 mm holes drilled with Festool's bit.  They are unacceptable for fine work in my opinion.

Dave R.

I second that, I bought two kinds of 5mm shelf supports from Rockler and both have a sloppy fit with the hole drilled with the Festool bit.

Emmanuel

 

[John Stevens]

Please note that the 5 mm shelf supports marketed by Rockler are a very sloppy fit in the 5 mm holes drilled with Festool's bit.  They are unacceptable for fine work in my opinion.

Dave R.

I second that, I bought two kinds of 5mm shelf supports from Rockler and both have a sloppy fit with the hole drilled with the Festool bit.

Emmanuel

I seem to have this problem with every shelf support I've bought.  Which ones have you guys found to be a snug fit?  Thanks in advance.

Regards,

John

 

[Dave Ronyak]

John,

I cannot fully answer - I don't know of a source for accurately sized 5mm pins, but my supply of ancient 1/4 inch pin/brackets are a snug fit relative to a 1/4 inch bit.

The next time I go looking for 5mm shelf pins, I will try to remember to take a sample block that I have drilled with Festool's 5 mm bit with me to check the fit of the pins.

Does anyone have any experience with the 5mm pins offered by Lee Valley?

Dave R.

 

[jmfox]

just bought a bunch of these from A&H Turf.  They fit ver well in the holes when using the Festool 5mm brad point bit.

blum shelf clips

 

[eweber]

I had some luck with those guys: Supports, Clear Bracket Style, 5mm
Note that I tried the model (c) and (d) and they are sloppy.

Emmanuel

 

[Jerry Work]

One good way to find shelf pins that fit properly is to drill a few holes in a scrap piece with whatever bit you want to use.  Take that scrap to the stores in your area and try what they have.  I found tight fitting 5mm pins in a big bin at a small local hardwood store.  Sold by the pound in brass, silver and black.  They had them in 1/4" and in 5mm for the same price.

Jerry

 

[gkeas]

I just used my new LR32 system for the first time, ironically, to create a jig to drill holes in a stereo cabinet I'm building.  I hadn't planned on using shelves (its a low boy).  I needed a jig shorter than the length of the rail (to fit inside the already assembled cabinet), so I created one using 3/16" hardboard and a scrap of 1x2 Birch I had on hand. 

I used a 3/8" straight bit to bore the holes in the jig (I didn't have any other kind), but I would recommend it for doing lots of holes.  I would think a spiral up cut would be the best choice for chip extraction.  I used an indexing 5mm bit from Woodcraft to bore the holes, and I used 5mm shelf pins (the L bracket style) from McFeeley's.  Everything worked pretty well. 

Just to get some practice with the LR32,  I designed the jig for 37mm or 64 mm spacing from the edge, and I did both sides, so I can do frameless or face frame spacing.