Blade Kerf - TS55

[grbmds]

I changed to a 12-tooth rip blade for a few cuts with my TS55 today, then changed back to the 48-tooth. The first thing I notice was that the splinter guard was rough on the cutting edge where it was smooth before I used the rip blade. The second thing was that, when I made the next cut with the 48-tooth blade, it no longer cut accurately; not right on the splinter guard. That was kind of irritating as I just replaced it and recut it with the 48-tooth blade.

Both blades are listed as 2.2mm kerf. I checked first and made sure the blade I bought actually had a 2.2 mm kerf.

Is that norma; each blade will cut the splinter guard different?

 

[Carl Prentiss]

Wow, that is disappointing.

 

[andy5405]

I've not used a rip blade but I have always assumed that would happen if I did.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

Although I have the TS75, I was under the impression that all the blades for the TS55 being the same kerf, would not alter the splinter guard. I guess you'll have to adjust the saw each time you change blades.

 

[grbmds]

I assumed and was actually told that it wouldn't make difference as long as I was sure the kerf of the blade was the same. So, I made sure that it was when I bought it. It had been awhile since I bought as I don't do much ripping with the TS55, so I was disappointed. I'm not sure what to do. I can't keep replacing the splinter guard.

 

[mark60]

I'm probably missing something but I don't see how the splinterguard would be affected. It has a fixed relationship with the left side of the blade and even if the blade was wider it shouldn't affect the splinterguard, should it?

 

[pugilato]

Kerf width is easily checked. Set up the rail on a piece of wood. Cut a couple of inches or so with one blade and mark the end of the cut. Without moving the rail, change the blade on the saw and replace the saw on the guide. If the new blade is suspected to be wider than the first, cut a bit into the existing cut (not all the way). You should see a difference. If the new blade is suspected to be narrower than the first, cut past the end of the first cut. If there is a difference, you should see it.

The rubber edge on my rails is messy in spots, which is why I line it up with several marks, not just one or two.

 

[semenza]

I'm probably missing something but I don't see how the splinterguard would be affected. It has a fixed relationship with the left side of the blade and even if the blade was wider it shouldn't affect the splinterguard, should it?

The blade plate would be referenced up against the saw but the kerf width / teeth would be narrow or wider in reference to the center of the plate. In other words the teeth protrude to both sides of the blade plate. If wider then half the additional width of the teeth will protrude to the inside.

Seth

 

[jimbo51]

You could also check to make sure the strip is tight on the guide rail right at the edge. If the strip can move, then a blade with fewer teeth might catch on the strip a bit when the strip flexes.

The obvious answer from the Festool point of view is that you should buy more guide rails and use specific ones for ripping and cross cutting.

 

[mark60]

I'm probably missing something but I don't see how the splinterguard would be affected. It has a fixed relationship with the left side of the blade and even if the blade was wider it shouldn't affect the splinterguard, should it?

The blade plate would be referenced up against the saw but the kerf width / teeth would be narrow or wider in reference to the center of the plate. In other words the teeth protrude to both sides of the blade plate. If wider then half the additional width of the teeth will protrude to the inside.

Thanks Seth. I knew I was missing something obvious.

Seth

 

[grbmds]

I'm probably missing something but I don't see how the splinterguard would be affected. It has a fixed relationship with the left side of the blade and even if the blade was wider it shouldn't affect the splinterguard, should it?

The blade plate would be referenced up against the saw but the kerf width / teeth would be narrow or wider in reference to the center of the plate. In other words the teeth protrude to both sides of the blade plate. If wider then half the additional width of the teeth will protrude to the inside.

Seth

Seth,

So, is it possible that the teeth were wider on the rip blade? The splinterguard is now rough where it was smooth. And, actually it is not rough along the whole length of the rail, only part. I did pieces I was ripping didn't require the whole length of the rail. This seemed to verify what I believe I am seeing.

If I want to verify what I believe happened, what is the best way? So far, I don't think my results either confirm or verify it, but I do need to know. I'm not sure what to do about it except either move the splinterguard or replace it.

Just so everyone knows, as far as I can tell the splinterguard was installed tightly against the ridge on the rail and was solid. It worked well for the few weeks since I installed it until the rip blade was used. The cuts were right on. Now they don't appear to be.

 

[semenza]

I'm probably missing something but I don't see how the splinterguard would be affected. It has a fixed relationship with the left side of the blade and even if the blade was wider it shouldn't affect the splinterguard, should it?

The blade plate would be referenced up against the saw but the kerf width / teeth would be narrow or wider in reference to the center of the plate. In other words the teeth protrude to both sides of the blade plate. If wider then half the additional width of the teeth will protrude to the inside.

Seth

Seth,

So, is it possible that the teeth were wider on the rip blade? The splinterguard is now rough where it was smooth. And, actually it is not rough along the whole length of the rail, only part. I did pieces I was ripping didn't require the whole length of the rail. This seemed to verify what I believe I am seeing.

If I want to verify what I believe happened, what is the best way? So far, I don't think my results either confirm or verify it, but I do need to know. I'm not sure what to do about it except either move the splinterguard or replace it.

Just so everyone knows, as far as I can tell the splinterguard was installed tightly against the ridge on the rail and was solid. It worked well for the few weeks since I installed it until the rip blade was used. The cuts were right on. Now they don't appear to be.

    I had the same problem when using the older Panther blade and the Fine blade. Before the kerfs were changed to all be the same. I have not actually used the new Panther so I don't know first hand if the change solved the problem.

    You said they are both 2.2mm kerf. Is that what is printed on the blade itself or on the packaging?

Seth

 

[rst]

One thing to keeping mind during any discussion of the splinter guard is that the guard will wear...more and less depending on what you are cutting.  I make my saw table inserts from UMHW and eventually even that needs to be replaced as the material being cut wears the slot.  If I need an absolute accurate cut with my guide rails I know that my saws kerf is exactly 3mm from the aluminum edge and set the material accordingly.

 

[grbmds]

I'm probably missing something but I don't see how the splinterguard would be affected. It has a fixed relationship with the left side of the blade and even if the blade was wider it shouldn't affect the splinterguard, should it?

The blade plate would be referenced up against the saw but the kerf width / teeth would be narrow or wider in reference to the center of the plate. In other words the teeth protrude to both sides of the blade plate. If wider then half the additional width of the teeth will protrude to the inside.

Seth

Seth,

So, is it possible that the teeth were wider on the rip blade? The splinterguard is now rough where it was smooth. And, actually it is not rough along the whole length of the rail, only part. I did pieces I was ripping didn't require the whole length of the rail. This seemed to verify what I believe I am seeing.

If I want to verify what I believe happened, what is the best way? So far, I don't think my results either confirm or verify it, but I do need to know. I'm not sure what to do about it except either move the splinterguard or replace it.

Just so everyone knows, as far as I can tell the splinterguard was installed tightly against the ridge on the rail and was solid. It worked well for the few weeks since I installed it until the rip blade was used. The cuts were right on. Now they don't appear to be.

    I had the same problem when using the older Panther blade and the Fine blade. Before the kerfs were changed to all be the same. I have not actually used the new Panther so I don't know first hand if the change solved the problem.

    You said they are both 2.2mm kerf. Is that what is printed on the blade itself or on the packaging?

Seth

It is printed on the blade - 2.2. When I bought  I made a big deal about the kerf since I already had read on the FOG that there were older blades that with a different kerf.