Blue Pine Garage Cabinets: Build

mike_aa said:
Nice!  Will you give these an ebony stain?

Mike A.

I think so.
Last night I applied Charles Neil's "Blotch Control" to a chunk of blue pine.
This morning I put some GF Ebony Dye on and the grain structure came through nicely.  In fact, when I wiped it back it came out like a nice walnut.

I finished making three pulls and now I'm going back to completing the doors.  I applied BC to the pulls and I'll dye them tomorrow.
The entire face is an unattractive end grain.  I'll see if the BC can work another miracle.

I should have the elm burl with the PSA backing for the backsplash any day.  I might see if I can coax a strip around the perimeter but I doubt it with the backing.  I have other non-backed veneers that I might experiment with down the road.  Maybe steam.

Thanks

Luke
 
Hard to believe these are shop cabinets, my daughter the artist, would love these.  I may have to drag my Airstream to CO this summer to buy a batch.
 
erock said:
DUDE !    Nice job !    [thumbs up]    [not worthy]

I like the look of the cabinets.  I LOVE the peg board inside the cabinets.  Can't wait to see how you load up that cabinet.

Eric
[member=8352]erock[/member]
Thanks.  I learned A Lot from your videos!!

BTW:  All LR32 bets are off when using an inset door on a frame.  The door is only a multiple of 32 when it's a full overlay with the side.  At least I can't see another way.

Here's what I did.  My sides are 1024mm  (32x32).  I made a spare side panel and marked a center line and lines half way between the top hinge plate holes and the bottom hinge plate holes.  Then I transferred the lines to the door my matching the center lines.  That gives the cup locations.  You can't use the guide rail top and bottom stops, only the side stops.  Match the lines, lock down the setback and bore.
 
rst said:
Hard to believe these are shop cabinets, my daughter the artist, would love these.  I may have to drag my Airstream to CO this summer to buy a batch.

It aught to be real inexpensive if you go to the source !  I paid $1.50 BF retail.
 
This is an interesting version on the door pulls.  My friend came over and said "what about this?"

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I think if you were to round the edges over a bit more you'd have a winner there?!
 
wow said:
I think if you were to round the edges over a bit more you'd have a winner there?!

It would have to be done by hand, thus it would be difficult to have consistency.
I plan on relieving the edge a bit.
 
The dye didn’t work as well as I thought it would on the flat grain.  The end grain is a disaster.
I put some Green Bolivar on the end grain of a knob last night.  It was a quick and dirty hack job just to see.

By itself not too interesting.  I put some ebony dye on and wiped it back.  Nothing great.  If I went the veneer route I’d have to soften it a lot and maybe change the profile.  After flipping the existing profile I though I’d make a symmetrical one like a dog bone.  I’d make it out of a harder species so it has a hard edge that I can veneer all the faces.  I may skinny it up a bit too. One reason is it’s hard to route end grain on 6/4 maple.  4/4 maybe.

The veneers in the picture are fumed oak, mottled anigre, green bolivar, holly, lemon, and seagrass mahogany.  Some aren't practical for the radiuses,  I didn't picture birds eye maple.  The stains are GF ebony dye and GF candelight gel stain.

Then there’s the knob thats has GF lamp black milk paint on it.  That’s a no brainer, stupid simple.  That's good because this endeavor is taking a lot of time.  But then the devil is in the details.

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Here's a new profile that I think will work.  I'll make it from skinnier stock.

I'm just gonna go on and say this about the first profile.  Either way you turn it, it looks phallic.  [eek]

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Yup.  This is the profile.  I couldn't get the template exactly symmetrical.  (Patience is not my strong suit) Thusly I cut it off angle.
Hard maple.
Not sure of the finish, probably black.

Enough sandbox time.  I'm going to finish the uppers then move on to the details.
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One thing no one has mentioned is how easy is it to grab the pulls and open the doors.  From the photos, your last iteration looks pleasing and it also seems to be ergonomic enough to use.  I like it the best of all, but you are the final determiner of how they ultimately perform.  If you are satisfied with their workings then go for it.

Thanks for sharing the build as you go along.  It's been fun to read and I've picked up some good ideas and inspiration!

Mike A.
 
All the uppers are leveled, butted, and fastened down.  There are a few small door tweaks but I'll make those when the project is complete.  Tomorrow I put in the bottoms and under cabinet LED pucks and a side panel.  Saturday I'll start clear coating.

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After many years of mediocre results I want to scrap the Ridgid drill press.

I'm looking at the Powermatic PM2800B.
Does anyone have one?
 
Nice build buddy!

Personally I would ditch the pulls. I think I would run a lip in the doors or even a simple 1.5" hole in the corner of each door as a boat style pull.  Simple is better with that rustic wood.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Lookin' good, Luke! Can't wait to see them filled and organized...
 
I put a couple of clear coats on this morning.  Waiting for the second to dry.

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Four coats.
Good until the lowers are completed.

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Beautiful!  From the pictures it looks like the colors changed a bit.  It's hard to tell from the photo, but do you still see the blue in the wood after finishing? 

OK, I know I'm setting myself up for some jokes, but this is not the dress on the internet!

Mike A.
 
iamnothim said:
After many years of mediocre results I want to scrap the Ridgid drill press.

I'm looking at the Powermatic PM2800B.
Does anyone have one?

Nice job. While I'm not a fan of stained pine, you pulled it off nicely. BTW I'm also looking at the PM 2800B. It doesn't have a stellar rep but its on sale for another two days and there's not a lot of alternatives.
 
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