blumotion install

[tjbnwi]

Here is what we got.  Blumotion  We have partial overlay doors so we will have to use the spacer.  They are pretty big so that's why I was asking where to place them.  I see from the photo they are placed right up against the corner of the face frame.  Do I need to drill pilot holes? 

I have put a lots of them!

you just need 1 at the top on the hinges side
If you have 1/2" overlay you will need to use the spacer provided.
I never had to drill a pilot hole.

I'm big drilling pilot holes. They allow proper root clearance and if you have a wired grain they prevent wonder.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

Here is what we got.  Blumotion  We have partial overlay doors so we will have to use the spacer.  They are pretty big so that's why I was asking where to place them.  I see from the photo they are placed right up against the corner of the face frame.  Do I need to drill pilot holes? 

I have put a lots of them!

you just need 1 at the top on the hinges side
If you have 1/2" overlay you will need to use the spacer provided.
I never had to drill a pilot hole.

I'm big drilling pilot holes. They allow proper root clearance and if you have a wired grain they prevent wonder.

Tom

The screws that comes with the soft close has a cutting point and the screw doesn't go very deep.
Also the offset attachment for the festool drill comes in very handy to drive the screw

 

[tjbnwi]

Here is what we got.  Blumotion  We have partial overlay doors so we will have to use the spacer.  They are pretty big so that's why I was asking where to place them.  I see from the photo they are placed right up against the corner of the face frame.  Do I need to drill pilot holes? 

I have put a lots of them!

you just need 1 at the top on the hinges side
If you have 1/2" overlay you will need to use the spacer provided.
I never had to drill a pilot hole.

I'm big drilling pilot holes. They allow proper root clearance and if you have a wired grain they prevent wonder.

Tom

The screws that comes with the soft close has a cutting point and the screw doesn't go very deep.
Also the offset attachment for the festool drill comes in very handy to drive the screw

I know they're Type #17 screw tips. I still per-drill.

The screws in the hinge leafs on pre-hung doors are Type #17 threads, look at how many of those are fubared. I've given up on pre-hungs, Vix bit used to drill for proper screw placement.

Just the way I prefer to do it.

Tom

 

[HowardH]

My 14 year son and I installed a couple of them today.  We junked the included screws and used GRK 2" #8 with the cutting tip.  Went in easily, no issues.  They are really to cool to watch.  Closed the door and about a couple of inches away, it almost stopped and just closed all so slowly.  Of course my son wants to be the one to install the other 90+ of them when the painters are out of there.  I'm ok with that!  ;D  The CSX makes it pretty easy too, very easy to handle.  Our contractor never gave me the opportunity to specific the soft closed hinges to begin with.  I came over one day and most of the old hinges had already been swapped out with the regular self closing variety. 

 

[GreenGA]

Perhaps then you can tell me what I did wrong, or understand incorrectly...  [embarassed]

We need to install these things in about 2 dozen cabinets.  Before I played with the expensive cabinets, I tried installing these things on two old oak cabinets, one left hand hinge and one right (about 25 years old).  I know they were mounted correctly, but the doors do not close.; as if they are not heavy heavy enough to depress the plunger.  I used the adjustment screw and adjusted the plunger from one end to the other but instead of increasing or decreasing the tension, all the adjustment screw seems to do it move the plunger in or out.

Before I did anything more, I thought I would ask.

I have put a lots of them!

you just need 1 at the top on the hinges side
If you have 1/2" overlay you will need to use the spacer provided.
I never had to drill a pilot hole.

 

[tjbnwi]

Perhaps then you can tell me what I did wrong, or understand incorrectly...  [embarassed]

We need to install these things in about 2 dozen cabinets.  Before I played with the expensive cabinets, I tried installing these things on two old oak cabinets, one left hand hinge and one right (about 25 years old).  I know they were mounted correctly, but the doors do not close.; as if they are not heavy heavy enough to depress the plunger.  I used the adjustment screw and adjusted the plunger from one end to the other but instead of increasing or decreasing the tension, all the adjustment screw seems to do it move the plunger in or out.

Before I did anything more, I thought I would ask.

I have put a lots of them!

you just need 1 at the top on the hinges side
If you have 1/2" overlay you will need to use the spacer provided.
I never had to drill a pilot hole.

Weight of the door does not close the door, the self closing hinge does. Are the hinges on your test cabinets self closing concealed? They older self closing bar ell hinges may not have enough closing force to function the soft close device.

Tom

 

[GreenGA]

The self-closing are these:

http://www.barkerdoor.com/Soft-Closing-Blumotion-Adapter-for-Compact-Hinges-p/971a9700.22.htm

Perhaps then you can tell me what I did wrong, or understand incorrectly...  [embarassed]

We need to install these things in about 2 dozen cabinets.  Before I played with the expensive cabinets, I tried installing these things on two old oak cabinets, one left hand hinge and one right (about 25 years old).  I know they were mounted correctly, but the doors do not close.; as if they are not heavy heavy enough to depress the plunger.  I used the adjustment screw and adjusted the plunger from one end to the other but instead of increasing or decreasing the tension, all the adjustment screw seems to do it move the plunger in or out.

Before I did anything more, I thought I would ask.

I have put a lots of them!

you just need 1 at the top on the hinges side
If you have 1/2" overlay you will need to use the spacer provided.
I never had to drill a pilot hole.

Weight of the door does not close the door, the self closing hinge does. Are the hinges on your test cabinets self closing concealed? They older self closing bar ell hinges may not have enough closing force to function the soft close device.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Pictures of your install please.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

Pictures of your install please.

Tom

Yes we need pictures of YOURS hinges
They need to be "self closing" if not it will not work

 

[GreenGA]

Okay, here is one I just took.  It shows the closer and how it was installed.

[attachimg=#]

 

[h.gil]

Thats never going to work as it is.
There might be a misnomer floating around along with a bit of confusion: there are soft-closing components as well as self-closing ones.
European style concealed hinges are spring loaded at the cup, if you hold one in your hand and play with it, it will be evident. There are too hinges that have and integrated damper that will slow down that closing motion, a soft-closing hinge in itself.

What you have there is a soft-close piston to be used in conjunction with a concealed hinge.

Also, the holder might be a tad too proud on the face frame.

 

[tjbnwi]

As h.gil stated it won't work with those style hinges. Not enough closing force in the hinge.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

Not going to work

 

[WPeters]

As others stated that will not work.  I would suggest the "softblocks" from hafele.com if you need a soft closing feature.  They work great for barrel hinges, and should work with the hinge you have there.

 

[GreenGA]

Well, it's unanimous, these things get returned. What's interesting is these were the recommendation of others, including from Blum. I can only assume that did not describe the situation properly for a valid answer.

Thanks to all.

 

[tjbnwi]

The barrel hinges have nowhere near the closing force of a concealed self close. That is what is causing them not to function properly.

Tom

 

[GreenGA]

Update.

With all the references to the hinges on this door/install, I thought the actual hinge may matter.

I asked one of my guys to run by the client's house and snap a photo of the actual closets in which these were to be installed. The photo I provided was for a stand-in closet to get the feel for installation before doing the install on the real things. They cost over 10k, so...

 

[tiralie]

Update.

With all the references to the hinges on this door/install, I thought the actual hinge may matter.

...on the real things. They cost over 10k, so...

...interesting choice of hinge for a 10k cabinet

 

[tjbnwi]

Update.

With all the references to the hinges on this door/install, I thought the actual hinge may matter.

...on the real things. They cost over 10k, so...

...interesting choice of hinge for a 10k cabinet

If I'm reading all of Green's responses properly, the pictures are of a "test" cabinet. We are patiently awaiting pictures of the "target" cabinets.

Tom

 

[WPeters]

Here is the link to the softblocks. http://www.hafele.com/us/external/catalog/pages09-02/294.pdf
However it sounds like your actual hinges are euro self closing.  I'm curious, why weren't you able to use the blum hinges with the softclose feature included?...
http://www.blum.com/us/en/01/20/10/
http://blumotion.blum.com/cliptop/us/

We use these all the time and they are fantastic....

keep us updated  [big grin]