Bombe Unit

[Top Knot]

So its been a while since I have posted here, but fear not I have not forgotten about you guys!
While I wait for a reply from a customer I thought I could ask some of you guys for some advice or tips or mods, basically any suggestions or thoughts on both the design and making of the following unit:

[attachthumb=#]

It will be a first of its kind for me...

 

[mouppe]

The hard part will be making the curved panels and ribs. I would make a form and then use bending plywood with a veneered surface. The ribs can be cut from solid wood, but it may need to be very thick lumber. The alternative is to cooper the panels, but it will be hard to ensure all the curves are the same from panel to panel.

It looks like a very difficult piece to make, but the result could be very pleasing.

 

[tiralie]

Check out Tommy MacDonald's build of a Bombe Secretary
http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/media/video.php?vid=ab53abe61

 

[Kev]

Man! I'd make a square one and drop it from about 50 feet!

Those curves are going to be nasty as the corner curves will need to be a different radius to the centre curves.

Will the draw boxes echo the external shape from the inside? Complicated if "Yes" ...

I'd be almost tempted to make a first pass of the entire thing out of horizontal slices to make a full scale model. Certainly way beyond my skill!

What materials and finishes are you intending? That could necessitate a particular approach ... a factor could also be the equipment you have available.

 

[GhostFist]

Ooooo I loves me a good geometry problem. Simple projections should determine the change in radius for the front corner legs, and the true shape (flat) of all pieces in between. You'll certainly need some mock ups. As suggested, prolly built up laminates for the gables at least. Some crafty shaping for the drawer fronts. Looks an awesome challenge! Photo documents please  [big grin]

 

[tiralie]

Graham:
I like your modern interpretation.
It might help to get a better idea of how the legs will contrast with the drawers if you orient the wood grain in your sketchup drawing vertically rather than horizontally as you have shown it. You can do this by duplicating your wood sample and turning it 90 degrees and importing it into your drawing as a new pattern.

The legs look a bit too heavy (projection and width) and the termination or foot doesn't really compliment the overall design.
I would look at softening the edge of the legs with a bead or profile of some sort.

A bracket foot or bun foot might look better and compliment the design by mimicking the swollen or puffed out Bombe shape.

I think the top could also be a little more interesting by interrupting the straight lines with bump outs where the legs are.

Interesting project.
Tim

 

[mouppe]

Ok, I had another think about this and I have another possible method.

You could build it like the hull of a ship, with ribs holding the strips in a curved shape. The ribs can be steam bent.

 

[Kev]

From a closer inspection I've just realised that the legs at the rear are at 90 degrees . so they'd have the same curve as the one in the centre front.

Just thinking along Tim's lines and visualising a contrast - how awesome it could look with the legs and top in something like a burled walnut finish ... using something much lighter for the drawer fronts and sides.

Handles are going to be a challenge in as much as not detracting from the lines of the design.

 

[GhostFist]

it's the corner legs that will distort as well as cuts for the gable and drawer fronts where they meet the corner leg. i like this project, its got me thinking.

 

[Top Knot]

Wow guys, thank you very much, some really interesting thoughts and comments coming in, I love it!!!
As it is with some design programs they can be limiting in terms of what they can do or at least how much time you willing to spend on designing a project. The legs do still need some detail, exactly what I am not yet sure. The whole unit is around 2m in length and 600mm deep 900mm high. I currently have the leg width at 75mm. Tim do you think a beading down the front of each corner/on the face of the leg will lighten them up a bit? Or should I take them down to 60mm or so, I thought 50mm to be too light for such a long cupboard. The projection of the leg is 30mm, if I make the legs thinner I will certainly retract them in to the cupboard. The client requested oak with a bit of a distressed look/slightly rougher look to it. This is actually the reason for the chunky legs. I feel I still need to add a bit of an apron below the bottom drawer between the legs too.

I tried to put the legs into a new file, rotate and re-render them in a wood finish but the grain did not change to run in the length direction, can someone help me with a description on how to change the grain direction? Whilst on the topic of grain, which way do you guys think the side panels should run? Tim I agree on the top having a featured curve to the corners. Perhaps I should do a complimentary curve above the centre leg too.

I think I will keep the inside or back of the drawer fronts flat, they may not be square to the base though depends on how much wood I feel like wasting  [tongue]

I checked out Tommy Macdonald's build. By the time I got to the end of the second video I lost patients with the pointless swearing and going on and on and on and on and on about the same thing, I then scrolled down to see that there are 80 videos in total  [eek] I could have made this unit in the time it takes me to get through all that... I am sure he has some really good pointers so if anybody notices which are the crux moments too look out for let us know what episode to page through too  [wink] I also feel the amount of wood he is using to build that unit is insane!! The world does not have enough forests for both him and me to build like that  [wink] I will be relying heavily on sketchup for acurate measurments to assist in the saving of the plantations

 

[tiralie]

The legs do still need some detail, exactly what I am not yet sure. The whole unit is around 2m in length and 600mm deep 900mm high. I currently have the leg width at 75mm. Tim do you think a beading down the front of each corner/on the face of the leg will lighten them up a bit? Or should I take them down to 60mm or so, I thought 50mm to be too light for such a long cupboard.

Graham:
My opinion, (subjective as it is) is to reduce the thickness to about 65mm or so. I did mention the beading because it is a from the classic version and I like visual references to the past in modern interpretations of furniture and architecture for that matter. As I have said before I really enjoy neoclassical architecture and when I saw this it reminded me of a classic Bombe chest that was deconstructed.
Additionally the beading softens the edge of the leg and helps to integrate it with the curves of the body.

Alternatively, I think you could make the top appear heavier with some molding, which would then rationalize the thickness of the leg.

The projection of the leg is 30mm, if I make the legs thinner I will certainly retract them in to the cupboard.

I wouldn't retract the legs. I like the legs projecting, just not quite as much. Again, I am interpreting your design through my sensibilities (odd as they are) which may completely derail you. I think it's an interesting concept to bring the structure or the bones of the cabinet on the outside. The most famous example in architecture of this deconstructionism is the George Pampediu in Paris.

The client requested oak with a bit of a distressed look/slightly rougher look to it. This is actually the reason for the chunky legs. I feel I still need to add a bit of an apron below the bottom drawer between the legs too.

Agreed. You could have some fun with the apron, although in your drawing it appears that the bottom row of drawers is an apron (or visa verse) which is interesting.

I tried to put the legs into a new file, rotate and re-render them in a wood finish but the grain did not change to run in the length direction, can someone help me with a description on how to change the grain direction?

Hmmm, I will see if I can find a video that will help you out there.

Whilst on the topic of grain, which way do you guys think the side panels should run? Tim I agree on the top having a featured curve to the corners. Perhaps I should do a complimentary curve above the centre leg too.

I think the side panel grain should run vertically but I would definitely change it in Sketchup and see if you like it . It would be interesting to put a curve in the top above the center leg. Again drawing this out will help make your mind up and you won't waste a bunch of wood and time.

I checked out Tommy Macdonald's build. By the time I got to the end of the second video I lost patients with the pointless swearing and going on and on and on and on and on about the same thing, I then scrolled down to see that there are 80 videos in total  [eek] I could have made this unit in the time it takes me to get through all that... I am sure he has some really good pointers so if anybody notices which are the crux moments too look out for let us know what episode to page through too  [wink] I also feel the amount of wood he is using to build that unit is insane!!

There are two key video's on developing the classic "bombe" shape, one is #78. Sorry I can't find the other but it's about laying out the shape of the drawers etc. Ya, I had forgotten that is was quite a long build but you learn a lot. After work, I would usually sit down and watch a couple, it's a bit like a soap opera with the different characters and crisis (mistakes) in the build. It was invigorating and inspiring watch him go through the process. I was quite excited when they announced he would have his own show on PBS but it is a bit too "milk toast" for my sensibilities.

I will be relying heavily on sketchup for acurate measurments to assist in the saving of the plantations

Sketchup is a great tool for working out problems before you get to the bench and it saves some trees too!

Tim