Bondo?

[Toolpig]

Used my Festool sanders to prep an exterior window sill for painting.  Found some punky wood, so I chisled it out and put some Bondo in and sanded smooth.  Looks great -- but I've heard that Bondo and wood aren't a great combination as the wood moves and the Bondo does not.  I'd use epoxy, but it's a helluva lot more $$ than a can of Bondo.

Any thoughts?

TP

 

[Frank Pellow]

I have used Bondo succesfully as wood filler many times and have had no problems with the movement of the surrounding wood.

 

[woodshopdemos]

I second what Franks said. The other method, epoxy, would have the same problem...it is rigid once set. Bondo is right for the job.

 

[Jeff Magnus]

I do tons of millwork and I agree that bondo is the way to go. Although you've got to be sure your using the right stuff and not the cheap crap. Use a light weight, pin hole free bondo. Usually found at an autobody store. In my neck of the woods we use a product called 'Extreme' and it comes by the gallon. Works wonders and is very easy to sand.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

As my young nephew would say "Bondo is da bomb!"  You can also mix coloring into it (e.g. transtint) to match the wood.

 

[TomC]

I have used both Bondo and Raycrete to repair wood, fill exterior screw holes, etc.  I prefer Raycrete as it creates a more substantial patch.  Raycrete is a 1:1 mix polyurethane.  It sands well and can be chiseled to shape.  I have used it on exterior wood of all types as well as Azek PVC.

 

[Frank Pellow]

I have used both Bondo and Raycrete to repair wood, fill exterior screw holes, etc.  I prefer Raycrete as it creates a more substantial patch.  Raycrete is a 1:1 mix polyurethane.  It sands well and can be chiseled to shape.  I have used it on exterior wood of all types as well as Azek PVC.

I have also used Raycrete and the job it did was as good as similar jobs I have done with Bondo -but no better.  And Raycrete costs a lot more than Bondo.

 

[fcraven]

The standard material used by painters and carpenter across the country is....
BONDO.

Live it, love it, use it.
Be sure to clear out all rot.

IF, on the otherhand, you have a structural issue, then you can go the expensive epoxy rout such as Abatron wood epoxy.http://www.abatron.com

I've used the wood epoxy to actually build missing mutton bars (rotted out) without removing glass, or making any major intrusion upon a home owner. (for the record, this was one option of many but it was exceedingly non-intrusive, and the homeowner was a very camper). But IF you have a non-structural issue, use the bondo, it's faster and cheeper.

 

[TomC]

Here is an interesting discussion on Bondo by professional carpenters.
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28058&highlight=raycrete

There appear to be different opinions about Bondo use for exterior applications.  Application technique is important accoridng to these folks.

 

[Brent b]

I've used alot of Bondo in my day.  I hesitate to use it in any exterior application now after witnessing so many failures.  It boils down to different contaction/expansion rates causing seperation, or popping.  If you can get it (I think woodcraft stocks this) pick up some scuptwood by systems three.
http://www.systemthree.com/p_sculpwood_2.asp
It has different working properties than bondo and requires a longer cure time but is a much more durable choice.

 

[TomC]

Here is an interesting thread on the topic:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/132?nickname=Dollarbill

 

[Per Swenson]

Yeah, I use the bondo, original formula.

We have a restoration business also.

This one is not as high falutin as it sounds.

Mostly we fix those bad add a levels and additions slapped together

in the 80s. by less then stellar craftsman.  Good business men I guess.

Oh you know the type, level addition foundation next to a 1920s out a level

cape.  And ya wonder how Grandma broke her hip. ;D

Per

 

[Brent b]

That must take alot of bondo to get those additions back out of level.  You must get the big can.

 

[MarkF]

Quick off topic Bondo story....
In 1974 I was stationed in Germany and was driving a 1963 VW Bug which was in excellent mechanical shape.  It came time for a safety inspection (German for "We will let no piece of junk be allowed on the road"...wish we had that strict of an inspection here!) and I had a few ~5mm rust holes starting on the passenger side rear quarter panel.  My wife worked in the base dental clinic and broght home some left over material they made temporary plates/dentures with which was trashed after each patient.  I sanded out the rusty area, mixed it up, slobbed on some of the material, let it dry, sanded it down, primed and painted.  The inspector passed me with flying colors!