Boom Arm Review

[Hotwheels]

I work in a 22x22 garage. I ususally store the Ct22 under my MFT 1080s. Every once in awhile I think about getting the boom, especially after such an informative review. However, I always go back to thinking it would mean the boom and CT22 together would take up more space, unless I can dismount it and store it somewhere until needed. Do you think this can be dismounted and remounted easily enough so that it will not take up a lot of extra space or is this the wrong way to think about using the boom?
Thanks

 

[Dan Clark]

I work in a 22x22 garage. I ususally store the Ct22 under my MFT 1080s. Every once in awhile I think about getting the boom, especially after such an informative review. However, I always go back to thinking it would mean the boom and CT22 together would take up more space, unless I can dismount it and store it somewhere until needed. Do you think this can be dismounted and remounted easily enough so that it will not take up a lot of extra space or is this the wrong way to think about using the boom?
Thanks

John,

So you store your CT under your MFT?   Hmmm... Like in the pic below?   ;D   After I spent about 10 seconds to pull out the hose holder, I just wheeled it under my MFT.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., that's my 10 X 13 master bath, which I'm remodeling. 

 

[Hotwheels]

My heart soars with joy at your image -- looks as if I need one.  I do carry the CT22 into the house for various ongoing projects, but I am sure there is a way around that too .... Thanks for the image, that says it all.

 

[Dan Clark]

John,

Well I suspect that your wallet is whining though.  ;D 

If a pic of the CT under a table sent your hear soaring, then the pic below should send it into cardiac arrest!  You see...

Another option if the boom gets in the way is to disconnect the boom where it swings.  The little knob thing(s) about 4 feet off the floor (see closeup in my review) is the quick disconnect pin.    Immediately above that pin is the power cord disconnect and immediately below is the hose disconnect. 

Just for grins, I decided to see how difficult it would be to disconnect the boom for transportation and then reconnect for work.  Having never done it before (other than original setup), it took me 59 seconds to disconnect the boom and 61 seconds to reconnect it.  And I wasn't hurrying!

The vertical boom arm that connects to the handle is 1365mm tall (53-3/4") after disconnection.  Disconnected, the horizontal piece is almost exactly the same length. 

Now I understand how people can use these on a job site.  It's a no brainer.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Dan Clark]

I like your take on how the Boom Arm has made your work space easier to work with.  But I especially like the way you discussed individual aspects followed by a grade in your review of the Hose Garage -- made that review rather fun.

To continue this review of the Boom Arm, you may wish to also include a few more items:

The overallhight has already been addressed, but you could also note that if one needed the hose brackets could be mounted below or to the side to gain additional room.  Specific measurements here for both overall hight and the disassembled hight for transport will be most useful to those with these concerns.

It also should probably be noted that the D27 can be readily installed or removed with the hose brackets intact, but these brackets have to be disassembled to install around the larger D36 hose.  The D36 is held somewhat snuggly within these brackets, which is fine, but without the ability to easily change between hoses one will probably want to leave the larger hose mounted and simply use ties to hang the smaller hose from the power-cord hooks during sanding operations.

You might also discuss the stabilizing feet that come with the Boom Arm.  I see that several of us with Boom Arms are not deploying these feet -- Hmmm, don't want to be one that later regrets that choice...  

These reviews are a very helpful tool in deciding on particular products -- especially when you consider that many may have no other option than to purchase 'site unseen'.  After all, had it not been for Jerry Work's great review, "Getting the Most from the MFT Multifunction Table", there would surely be at least one less Festool owner.

Keep up the good work!
Corwin

Corwin,

Well, between your post, Per's post, and my response to John Russell, I think we've covered pretty much everything!  ;D

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Hotwheels]

Dan,
One more question --- I notice that most pictures I have seen of the boom arm, there are two hoses connected. Is this necessary or is it possible to use the boom arm with the stock hose for a CT22 or 33?

PS -- the cardiac arrest thing is way over rated ...

 

[Dan Clark]

John,

The CT22 comes standard with an 11.5' D27 anti-static hose (27mm).  My Boom Arm came (standard) with a D50 anti-static hose.  The D50 goes from the CT's inlet port to the Boom Arm quick disconnect point.  The standard CT D27 hose goes from there to the tool.  You need the extra length of the D50 hose to allow the D27 hose to connect to the tool. 

FYI, when set up, the D27 hose will drop from the Boom Arm to within about 1" of the floor.  This is nice because it doesn't drag on the floor but you still have sufficient length to work with.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Hotwheels]

I see ... now I am sold!

 

[Dan Clark]

John,

Just in case you were referring to the silver colored D36 hose, that came from the Festool clean up kit that I bought.  If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the one with the D36 antistatic hose (green hose).    The D36 hose is useful for the hand planer and my miter saw.

Dan.

 

[Corwin]

One little new capability my Boom Arm brings is that it now readily connects with my bandsaw's smaller DC port.  The end of the D50 fits perfect!     ;D

Corwin

 

[Hotwheels]

John,
b
Just in case you were referring to the silver colored D36 hose, that came from the Festool clean up kit that I bought.  If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the one with the D36 antistatic hose (green hose).    The D36 hose is useful for the hand planer and my miter saw.

Dan.

I ordered the handle and boom arm last Thursday, it arrived Friday (thanks again Bob for great service) and I put it together today (Saturday). I ordered this on faith and the experience of other Festool users. I was as suspect about this as I was about the MFT 1080, or as I refer to it and expensive piece of MDF with holes in it. I like the MFT and the holes are worth the cost.

So, I recieved the handle and the boom arm to attach to my CT22. I am not mister mechanical and I prefer step by step instructions with lots of pics ... no such luck. After a couple of false starts, the handle was installed without much trouble despite the lack of instructions but a legible parts diagram. The  boom went together without much incident, although my spourse broke one of the clips that keeps the power cord attached to the boom.  It was more my fault than hers since I asked her to pull the cord though the cliips.

The instructions were better for the boom as compared to the handle, but then almost anything would be an improvement there.

Here is where there is a difference for me.  Being somewhat awkard when it comes to the mechanical end of things, I knew from past experience that there was a design concept in the Festool approach that has a logic, even if I did not know the logic or if it was not explicit in the instruction.

I knew that even if I could not decipher the parts diagram with the handle, I could solve the problem based on what I perceive to be a "design concept" that  has consistency.  If there is a "Festool difference" then this is it for me.  It was simply less stressful for me to put together the parts knowing that there was a logic and all I had to do is sort that out. That is different than tools where there is not an integrated design concept. Dewalt does it different than Bosch, etc... and within those tool brands I perceive there is variation in how tools work. I perceive more consistency in the Festool system.

I have limited time to devote to woodworking, and even though I am not too good at it, and it does not come easily for me, I enjoy it within my capacity. The less I have to fuss with the tool part, the more I can enjoy the creating part. Others may find the tool part fun and enjoyable, but for me, the end product is the focus and what gets me there with the less time and less frustration, the better. That is value addedf for me.

Tomorrow I have a refinishing project and I need to use the vac and newly acquired 150/3 sander AND the boom arm. I will see if it lives up to its hype then. If not I think I can always sell it without too big a loss. However, I do like like that even with the hose garage and the systainer for the 150/3, it JUST fits under the MFT 1080. Somebody is thinking about how these things fit together ... I don't have to worry about that ...

For anyone intereste  in the  value of a "design concept" check out Don Norman's book "The Design of Everyday Things."

JR

 

[sroxberg]

Well I got my Boom arm today and am trying to set it up. The manual does leave a little to be desired but it appears to be working.

One question.

My support legs (there are two) have black plastic plugs to close the open end on the floor side, but the end of the support legs that are pointing straight up do not. This seems odd to me and I'm wondering if they forgot to pack them?

What's to keep the legs from filling up slowly with saw dust (from non-Festool Tools) when it's being used?

For those of you with a boom arm, are yours open as well?

For owners of CT-22's with a boom arm are both of the brackets to hold the support legs above the cord wrap attachment on the rear of the vacuum? The pictures seem to be of a CT-33 and I barely have room.

 

[Corwin]

What's to keep the legs from filling up slowly with saw dust (from non-Festool Tools) when it's being used?

For those of you with a boom arm, are yours open as well?

For owners of CT-22's with a boom arm are both of the brackets to hold the support legs above the cord wrap attachment on the rear of the vacuum? The pictures seem to be of a CT-33 and I barely have room.

Mine also only came with the two plugs.  I think the upper ends have been left open so you can store the support cross pieces in the tube -- I don't store mine there and would also have preferred these plugged.  And, if you plug the vac in, you will probably not have that much sawdust to worry about.

Yes, the brackets for the support legs are all installed above the cord-wrap bracket.  To adjust each leg, you need to loosen both brackets and move them up/down with the leg.  Not a handy setup for these brackets, but that little soft plastic tab within the bracket does prevent the tubes from being scratched in the process.

No, sounds like you have everything setup correctly.

Corwin

 

[sroxberg]

After using the boom for the last few days I have to say that I love it. I jumped on the purchase because it's going from $159 to over $220 dollars after the 1st. If you have been thinking about this item, now is the time. With my Domino purchase this was a tough one, but it save too much money.

It does make the vacuum a lot less mobile, so it will probably cost me a mini vac later, oh well more tools.

 

[putttn]

I put mine together today and I didn't get the little curly silver hose holder.  Did get a couple of extra screws and bolts though.  Checked and rechecked and no curly silver hose holder.  Is this something that everyone gets?

 

[Les]

No, it's an accessory. http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=487072&ID=6 Does help keep the hose from kinking as Per stated.

 

[Dan Clark]

Les is absolutely correct.  It's an accessory.  I've had the "little curly thing" for almost as long as I've had my CT.  I bought it as a convenient way of holding the hose and cord while I wasn't using it.  I'm sorry that I didn't mention this. 

It's inexpensive and works nicely.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[Woodenfish]

I remember a few summertime bbq's some 30 years or so ago at my Grandfather's house when I was a kid. He used to have a whole bunch of those curly-q-thinga-ma-jigs poked into the backyard next to the lawn chairs to hold the beer cans for him and the other adults. I bet he didn't pay more than 99 cents for his at the drugstore, so I could imagine what he might say today if I told him I had an imported one from Germany that cost me over thirty dollars!  R.I.P. Gramps!

 

[Llap Goch]

The Festool boom arm costs a Kings Ransom in this part of the world so in concert with my trusty apprentice Simou I have adapted my Triton Multistand into the new and patented Llap Goch Industries Cheapskate Boom Arm.

This is how we did it.

Screw two 6' x 2" x1" pieces of wood together with a wire hook placed between the wood at one end. Coat hanger wire is perfect.

Swivel the head of the Triton Multistand to an appropriate angle and place the wood in the jaw and tighten.

Wrap a Festool powercord around the vacuum hose of your cleaner. You can use cable ties but this will push the price up.

Place the power/vacuum hose over the hook and attach your Festool.

Bingo the $3 boom arm which really does work and which, when you have finished with it, reverts back to a support stand which will take 220lbs. Try that with the Festool boom arm.

I know its sad but it is very cheap and the money you save can be put towards your Kapex.

This inventing and manufacturing lark makes a chap thirsty so we are off to enjoy a cold beer. I say we because Simou really does enjoy beer and has a small one every night.

Regards from Wales

 

[Corwin]

...Bingo the $3 boom arm which really does work...

But those Triton MultiStands -- at $60 -- would bring the cost up somewhat... 

Your 'Boom Arm' is a good example of the many different uses these stands can have around the shop -- and elsewhere.  I have two of these MultiStands and they are great!  With their integrated clamp, they are almost as versatile as the old WorkMate.  For us Festool users, these stands are good for adding a quick table extension to the MFTs.  Better yet, they also can replace those old saw horses you may use as a cutting table -- now you can tip the table vertical, lean a sheet against and tip back into position.  I was going to put the works on casters to make it into a sheet mover as well, but the hardware I purchased didn't work out so that is still on the to do list.  No, the only problem I have with the Triton MultiStand is that two just might not be enough.

Corwin