Bosch or Festool plunge saw

[Magpal]

Hi,

I am in the process of buying the MFT and have some questions regarding which plunge saw to choose.

I have just started doing some woodworking projects as a hobbyist and am in the need of a good plunge saw. I already have a Bosch circle saw with FSN rail guide. However i would like a plunge saw for use with the MFT as this will allow for more precise work, better safety and better dust extraction.  When i buy new tools i like to get the best equipment, as this will allow for more precise results and last longer. I already own a Bosch jigsaw, Bosch circle saw, Bosch sander, Festool Domino and a CTL MIDI. I am quite heavily invested in L-boxxes as i got these really cheap for a while. I also have systainers for the Domino and dust extractor accessories. I will probably stick with both these systems as both systems have pros and cons.

My question is therefore whether the Bosch or Festool plunge saw would fit my "system" best. I did not get to try these saws but i went to the local store to have a look on the saws. They are almost equal on the things that matters but there is a few differences:

Festool PROS:
-Use with CMS
-More accessories
-Slim housing for cutting close to wall
-Plug-it
-Micro adjustment

Bosch PROS:
-FSN guide rail system
-Better dust extraction?? (Some reports on the web. However i would like to get more comments regarding this)

Festool may have a couple more PROS but i feel that the FSN guide rail system has a lot of advantages over the Festool rails. Have anyone used both these saws? What would you recommend? I realize that the FOG may give me biased answers, but I would really like to hear from people with experience with both saws.

 

[dodong]

mafell 55c works on your FSN tracks and on the festool track on the MFT/3.

 

[waho6o9]

http://festoolownersgroup.com/other-tools-accessories/what-is-happening-to-bosch/?topicseen

Festool would be choice.

 

[andy5405]

The Bosch saw is made by Mafell so it might be better build quality than the Festool. However I would go with Festool for the system approach which becomes more obvious and valuable as you purchase more tools.

 

[aas]

No one has actually asked what you will be doing with the plunge saw...

Based on the superior guide rails go for the Mafell, (or the Bosch if you can't afford it).

Based on the more powerful motor, go for the Mafell.

If you will need to regularly change blades, go for the Mafell.

If you need to cut a lot of laminate board, go for the Mafell.

If you might need to clamp the rail close to the cut line, go for the Mafell.

If you will just be doing light duty work and don't mind wasting time lining up the guide rails when you have to (or if you don't need to join guide rails), the Festool is genuinely a beautifully engineered saw, just underpowered and uses inferior rails.

 

[Magpal]

The plunge saw will be used for various materials and tasks. Laminate boards, plywood sheets, various furniture parts and general remodelling.

I did consider the Mafell, but given the price difference i think the Bosch is more value for money. I also think the front handle on the Festool/Bosch is better than no front handle.

Does the lower power on the Festool saw cause any problem?

Since i am a hobbyist i do not mind using a couple more minutes on straightening the rails (other than knowing that there is a better system out there). The bigger advantage with the FSN would be the clamps close to the cut line. I have already used this to cut very thin stock and this could eliminate the need for a table saw in some cases. The adding of a CMS would fill this need if i choose the Festool. (For a much higher price though)

Some people have reported that the splinter guard loosen over time. Is this mainly due to extensive use?

 

[WelshWood]

Granted, that the Festool isn't as powerful as the Mafell.

However, I find that the motor on the Festool will handle anything thrown at it, and as someone mentioned, when you get Festool, you're buying into a system.

~WW

 

[Holmz]

I have the MT55 and the Bosch rail fitted to the MFT, and a 2 more bosch rails for work off the MFT.
It is a very nice set up and enjoyable to use.

I haven't used the Bosch varient nor the TS55.

However I had the bosch rails together and apart numeruos times last week cutting sheets. It seems that if you use the rails a lot then wisdom of the Bosch rail design comes out.

Personally I would therefore go the Bosch just based upon the rails, given the context of Bosch vs TS55. The rail clamps in the Bosch OFA Kit 800 and the Mitre mount are also good - the MFT and the rails were a lot more $ than the Mt55 - and the MT55 fits on the less expensive Bosch rails (which are made by Bosch for Mafell if you have Mafell ones).

The MFT seems good with Bosch rail.
I got three 1600 rails, and cut one to ~1100 for the MFT, so the little 500-mm peice gets used by hand or with the mitre unit. That eaves the two 1600s for sheets.

 

[aas]

I've had my 2015 TS55 cut out twice while ripping a 2m length of 40mm softwood - not what I expected - so personally I would say the lower power is a problem. If you will only be cutting sheet goods, it won't ever be a problem for you.

As for the front handle, I don't think I've ever used it.

It's the superior guide rails that would swing the choice towards Mafell/Bosch if I were you.

 

[Bob Wolfe]

sounds like you used the wrong or a dull blade based on my experience ripping.

 

[aas]

It shouldn't cut-out ripping a short length of softwood.

The TS is sold as ideal for cutting down doors. Think about it for a minute... 10cm (4") of crosscut, followed by 70cm (28") of ripping, followed by (4") 10cm of crosscut... shoud I change the blade after the first 10cm??? no of course not. Should I use a panther ripping blade for trimming a door to length? no of course not. So if I should be able to trim the bottom of a door (70cm of ripping), I should be able to trim the side of a door (2m of ripping).

The saw should not cut out doing this. The blade was virtually new.

 

[mo siopa]

It shouldn't cut-out ripping a short length of softwood.

The TS is sold as ideal for cutting down doors. Think about it for a minute... 10cm (4") of crosscut, followed by 70cm (28") of ripping, followed by (4") 10cm of crosscut... shoud I change the blade after the first 10cm??? no of course not. Should I use a panther ripping blade for trimming a door to length? no of course not. So if I should be able to trim the bottom of a door (70cm of ripping), I should be able to trim the side of a door (2m of ripping).

The saw should not cut out doing this. The blade was virtually new.

It shouldn't cut-out ripping a short length of softwood.

The TS is sold as ideal for cutting down doors. Think about it for a minute... 10cm (4") of crosscut, followed by 70cm (28") of ripping, followed by (4") 10cm of crosscut... shoud I change the blade after the first 10cm??? no of course not. Should I use a panther ripping blade for trimming a door to length? no of course not. So if I should be able to trim the bottom of a door (70cm of ripping), I should be able to trim the side of a door (2m of ripping).

The saw should not cut out doing this. The blade was virtually new.

You are correct in that the saw shouldn't cut out ripping 40mm softwood but I think BW's point was that there may be another problem.  (Not necessarily an operator problem but maybe a problem with power or the saw itself?).

I've ripped a lot of 8' lengths of 1-1/2" white oak with my TS 55 with no issues and I didn't use a panther blade because I didn't have one yet.  I did have some problems with my TS 75 cutting out occasionally about 2 years ago.  It didn't have a problem with the 2-3/4" maple I was ripping for a new workbench.  It started cutting out when I was cutting 3/4" plywood afterward- but the CT 33 it was connected to was still running.  After much head-scratching and a period of staring blankly at the ceiling, I realized that a light bulb above me was pulsing slightly.  I am not an electrician.  However, I do know that shouldn't happen- especially when my water bottle has water in it and not Scotch (I checked).  Fortunately, I was able to lure two electrically inclined brothers over to my place with a bottle of 18 year Laphroaig and coerced them into investigating the situation.  The crux of the problem was that the amadon I bought my house from did some very cheap and stupid rewiring.  The power I drew while ripping was enough to heat up some of the problem areas in the wiring and the saw's safety measures would not let it run without full power (to prevent too slow of a turning speed and possible kickback perhaps?).  After addressing the wiring, the saw worked like new again.

So the point is that sometimes it is neither the tool nor the operator but a unique, unforeseen problem that creates our strife (or perhaps some crazy idiot named Kevin who thinks electricity runs down hill).

Chris K.

 

[aas]

You are correct in that the saw shouldn't cut out ripping 40mm softwood but I think BW's point was that there may be another problem.  (Not necessarily an operator problem but maybe a problem with power or the saw itself?).

Point taken, I could have a dud! I'll add it to my list of new Festools that need to go back to be looked at when I have a break in my schedule!

 

[Holmz]

It shouldn't cut-out ripping a short length of softwood.

The TS is sold as ideal for cutting down doors. Think about it for a minute... 10cm (4") of crosscut, followed by 70cm (28") of ripping, followed by (4") 10cm of crosscut... should I change the blade after the first 10cm??? no of course not. Should I use a panther ripping blade for trimming a door to length? no of course not. So if I should be able to trim the bottom of a door (70cm of ripping), I should be able to trim the side of a door (2m of ripping).

The saw should not cut out doing this. The blade was virtually new.

Even with my MT55 it sometimes has an RPM drop when pushing hard into softwood. I assume that some softwoods are harder than others.
It is also possible that the kerf was Brembo'ing the blade.

But I am also under the impression that TS55 has some more protection circuitry than other saws, which could need a loving hand in the repair shop.

 

[aas]

I can cope with an RPM drop, not a couple of cut-outs on one piece of wood. It was decent softwood, but not hard. I went and got my 18v Makita out of the van to finish the job - a bit shameful that it managed no problem when the TS cut-out.

I have tried since, if I do several passes increasing the depth of cut, it mamages OK - but then I got the mains one and not cordless as I don't want to be messing around like that.

The OP was asking between Bosch or Festool - my opinion is that the Festool is underpowered and it's better off going for the Mafell or Bosch - based on more reasons than just the power! Personally I will be replacing my TS55 for an MT55 and a TSC55. I still have a lot of faith in Festool products despite minor niggles, just the TS55 does not have the grunt to back up what is otherwise a piece of great engineering - I can deal with that for a cordless model mind!

 

[jeh]

There is no decision. Get the Mafell MT55cc.

 

[rst]

Something wrong with your saw or power supply.  I just finished an 1 3/4" thick hard maple cutting board for my wife.  I squared it up with my TS55.  Did not change out the plastics/aluminum blade that was in and only had minor scorch marks that were easily sanded out.  It did bog down once, but considering the blade I used, I was expecting to have to change out the blade.  I actually never change blades in my three table saws.  They always have the plastics/ aluminum blades in them.

 

[DzordanoBruno]

1. Mafell,
2. Festool,
3. Bosch

 

[aas]

Err... if it it's the saw - I will get it back to Festool to look at it - I promise.

It it's the power supply - well I guess I can't go upgrading customers power supplies each time I turn up, so I'll see how I get on with the TSC and MT55...

 

[jacko9]

After looking at both saws, I bought the Mafell MT55 because of the track connectors and anti-splinter strip.  It has been an excellent saw for my needs.