I am building a table and would like to put breadboards on the table top. The top will be 36" X40" in size. I was thinking about putting 3" or 4" inch breadboard onto the table. I have a domino that I would like to use. I have never made a breadboard and am concerned about wood movement. I know the traditional method is with a mortise and tenons that are pinned with glue only in one of the mortises. Can I use my domino? If so, do I want to glue each of the dominos in place? What is the best method? Ay advice or suggestions is welcomed. Thanks, chiefk
Breadboard w/ Domino
- Thread starter pvkennedy
- Start date
Hi!
There's nothing different about attaching breadboard ends with dominos vs mortise and tenon. The key is that you need to allow the main part of the top to expand and contract (across the grain) while the breadboards do not (along the grain). So, you cut a small number of tight dominos (one to three) in the center of the breadboard and glue them. You cut wider domino slots the rest of the way across the breadboard and don't glue them. It can also help to deliberately spring the breadboard a bit. That is, plane the joint slightly concave so that there is a gap in the middle that you pull shut with clamps while the glue dries. This helps keep the ends tight against the top.
There's nothing different about attaching breadboard ends with dominos vs mortise and tenon. The key is that you need to allow the main part of the top to expand and contract (across the grain) while the breadboards do not (along the grain). So, you cut a small number of tight dominos (one to three) in the center of the breadboard and glue them. You cut wider domino slots the rest of the way across the breadboard and don't glue them. It can also help to deliberately spring the breadboard a bit. That is, plane the joint slightly concave so that there is a gap in the middle that you pull shut with clamps while the glue dries. This helps keep the ends tight against the top.
Jesse Cloud
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 1,746
Just to clarify, all the dominoes should be glued into the tabletop, but only the center ones should be glued into the breadboard.
One more tip, finish the breadboard and the tabletop separately or if you finish them after assembly use a straight edge and a razor blade to score the joint where the two come together. If not, when the top moves, the finish may crackle. DAMHIKT
One more tip, finish the breadboard and the tabletop separately or if you finish them after assembly use a straight edge and a razor blade to score the joint where the two come together. If not, when the top moves, the finish may crackle. DAMHIKT
Howard, this may be a matter of terminology 
. By breadboard I mean a piece of wood whose long grain goes across the end grain edge of a tabletop, that is, perpendicular to the long grain of the main part of the top. You do not want to glue it to the end grain of the tabletop, as that will almost surely cause the top to crack when it tries to expand or contract in width. Unless the top is quite narrow, there should be no miters involved, as they will open up when the top expands in wet weather. Here in New England, a 40-inch wide tabletop will change width by about 3/8 inch between winter and summer! That means the breadboard will match the width of the rest of the table only twice a year (like a stopped clock - right twice a day 
), but that's unavoidable.
. By breadboard I mean a piece of wood whose long grain goes across the end grain edge of a tabletop, that is, perpendicular to the long grain of the main part of the top. You do not want to glue it to the end grain of the tabletop, as that will almost surely cause the top to crack when it tries to expand or contract in width. Unless the top is quite narrow, there should be no miters involved, as they will open up when the top expands in wet weather. Here in New England, a 40-inch wide tabletop will change width by about 3/8 inch between winter and summer! That means the breadboard will match the width of the rest of the table only twice a year (like a stopped clock - right twice a day ), but that's unavoidable.Sam Murdoch
Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2008
- Messages
- 162
Yes indeed, if you are adding a frame around your table top this is not a bread board end. The breadboard end is
one piece at each end of the table planks with the grain running perpendicular to the planks. There should be no
mitered corners or you are completely defeating the purpose of the breadboard ends. The domino is a perfect
tool for this job, as described by others above.
one piece at each end of the table planks with the grain running perpendicular to the planks. There should be no
mitered corners or you are completely defeating the purpose of the breadboard ends. The domino is a perfect
tool for this job, as described by others above.
CharlesWilson
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 458
I just finished reading an article about breadboarding ends to a table top, (Trestle Table with Breadboard Ends by Charles Durfee, Fine Woodworking March/April 2000) in which the author describes the conventional pinned mortise technique. He also mentioned a tip:
He suggests that you 'spring' the cap-to-tabletop joint by planing the inside edge of the cap concave. Then when you glue the cap onto the rest of the top (with glue applied to cap mortises only in the center) the middle will be sprung in, holding the ends tightly. The domino's will keep things lined up on the ends.
He suggests that you 'spring' the cap-to-tabletop joint by planing the inside edge of the cap concave. Then when you glue the cap onto the rest of the top (with glue applied to cap mortises only in the center) the middle will be sprung in, holding the ends tightly. The domino's will keep things lined up on the ends.
