building cabinet but... the wood finish...

gompy58

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I make a sort of cabinet for my washer and my dryer. Here I use for solid walnut and ash.
The worst part of all this is now ... with what I'm going to finish?
Oil is easy but does not provide sufficient protection (washgel..) Oil I on the other side again very beautiful. It gives a lovely warm atmosphere.

Shellac is an option, easy to apply. In a wood book I read this very good protection against moisture, but I'm sure a bit ..

Can I get oil changes for the color and then shellac for the extra protection? What I fear is a plastic look ...

same advise would be welcome and please keep it simpel ? I love of the shelf products..
 
Shellac over oil should work well.  Just don't put too much oil on, wipe off the excess, and allow to cure (maybe a week) before you apply the shellac.

Another advantage of your choice is that if it is damaged, it is very easy to repair.
 
Don't use oil on the cabinet inside as it will smell forever.

Shellac is not the most waterproof finish but it does look good and is easy to apply. I would go with shellac and leave it at that.
 
so, shellac over oil is no problem ?

I have a can of Danish oil which i want to use. Do i get the best of both this way ?

Is there a way to make shellac a bit more satin in stead of glossy?
 
What is the advantage of using shellac over oil? For me, an oil finish is a topcoat finish. I can understand if you use shellac under oil to help seal the wood pores, but not shellac over oil. Is it for extra protection because I don't see the benefit?

You can stop adding the coats of shellac before it gets too glossy.
 
shellac UNDER oil won't work... Shellac seals the wood and after that the oil won't penetrate the wood, so that is not possible.
 
gompy58 said:
shellac UNDER oil won't work... Shellac seals the wood and after that the oil won't penetrate the wood, so that is not possible.

That's true and untrue. Shellac does seal the wood, but you may actually want to partially seal the pores before adding a finish. I almost always use a wash coat or two of shellac under oil as it allows me to control the oil absorption and prevents blotching. With cherry and maple in particular, I get a much more even finish.

So to say shellac under oil WON'T work is simply untrue. As you know there are very few black and white rules when it comes to finishing, so if you find something that works for you, go for it. I would stress again not to use oil inside a cabinet, especially in a moist area. It will smell rancid.
 
My 5 cents, but did you consider water based topcoat instead of oil?
It dries much faster ( from my experience, by the time you get done with one oil coat, three water based can be applied) , and you can easily apply it over shellac or vice verse. As soon as it dries- no smell whatsoever.
If you like an amber tint of the oil based top coats, i recommend you try Enduro var water based top coat from general finishes. Enduro var is extremely durable and waterproof.

In the end, Water based is much better for the environment ( Everybody is green here in Seattle [smile] ), easier cleaning, and no danger of self combustion ( boy, I sound as a water based sales rep  [smile] )

Anyways, good luck on your cabinets and post some pics when ready!
 
They might not get GF stuff in Holland, I don't know?

Enduro var adds a slight amber tone similar to a shellac, but it doesn't quite have the depth.  I have brushed it on a couple times with good results. 
 
sancho57 said:
General finishes Enduro coat, If ya got a sprayer.

Think I need to try out the enduro var as well on my bamboo cabinet doors and top. Just did a sample of minwax Helmsman oil varathane on a bamboo ply offcut to show my customer and turned out pretty good. Do you think I can get the same durability and finish by spraying general enduro var? Would rather spray them brush on. thoughts appreciated.

thx
Lambeater.
 
lambeater said:
sancho57 said:
General finishes Enduro coat, If ya got a sprayer.

Think I need to try out the enduro var as well on my bamboo cabinet doors and top. Just did a sample of minwax Helmsman oil varathane on a bamboo ply offcut to show my customer and turned out pretty good. Do you think I can get the same durability and finish by spraying general enduro var? Would rather spray them brush on. thoughts appreciated.

thx
Lambeater.

I will be using enduro var on a vanity counter top project in a few weeks.  I wanted to test its durability & water resistance so I sprayed 3 coats on a piece of walnut (sanded w/ 400 between) and left it outside for a month.  It still looks as good as new.  I sprayed 3 coats on a cafe table in my own kitchen, no water rings and minimal scratching it has been about 6 months.  I also sprayed the cabs in my last kitchen project.  

I just mentioned brushing as another option for application.    
 
Vindingo said:
lambeater said:
sancho57 said:
General finishes Enduro coat, If ya got a sprayer.

Think I need to try out the enduro var as well on my bamboo cabinet doors and top. Just did a sample of minwax Helmsman oil varathane on a bamboo ply offcut to show my customer and turned out pretty good. Do you think I can get the same durability and finish by spraying general enduro var? Would rather spray them brush on. thoughts appreciated.

thx
Lambeater.

I will be using enduro var on a vanity counter top project in a few weeks.  I wanted to test its durability & water resistance so I sprayed 3 coats on a piece of walnut (sanded w/ 400 between) and left it outside for a month.  It still looks as good as new.  I sprayed 3 coats on a cafe table in my own kitchen, no water rings and minimal scratching it has been about 6 months.  I also sprayed the cabs in my last kitchen project.  

I just mentioned brushing as another option for application.    

Thanks Vindingo, I will order some satin tomorrow from lee valley, do a test piece on bamboo and compare notes before doing the countertop.

Lambeater
 
If you want to get the oil based effect, apply dewaxed shellac (Zinnser Sealcoat), then topcoat with Enduro Var. Another very good WB topcoat for countertops is Target's EM2000 with the crosslinker additive.

John
 
i do want the oil effect. It looks great on walnut and ash. I used Danish oil on a test piece and ...thats what i want but that is not the best choice in this case .

Never heart off dewaxed shellac and enduro Var.  google doesn't give me any result in holland for sale points.

The problem with looking for this is that sales people are great in saying"o, but this is something just like that other stuff..."I realy hate that  [crying]

this is what i found  dewaxed shellac

and Enduro Var

I couldn't find them at a Dutch reseller. So IF I would use this, i have the fly it in... ( if they accept it on a plane..)

In a nutshell... this combi wil give me the oil look finish with a waterprotectet seal ?
 
Well I got some General satin enduro var this week from Lee Valley, set up my shop with plastic for a temporary spray booth and final sanded my bamboo counter top. Did a little practice piece with my Sharpe Cobalt HVLP gun then time to do the real job. Sprayed 5 coats (got carried away since it is waterbourne) Sanded with 320 between coats for the first 2 then 400 for the rest. Had to change my technique after the first couple of coats, got a couple of edge runs, But once that was corrected the rest went on pretty good. Overall I really like the finish and the test piece seems to have dryed as hard as an oil based finish. The finish does amber slightly but not as much as oil. Will post pictures after counter top in installed.

thx
Lambeater
 
I don't know how lacquer is sold in holland but if I wanted an oil look I would probably use Danish oil or bush oil, wait the 3 day dry period then spray over it with a 10 degree (dull finish)  pre cat lacquer. If you know how to spray you only need 2 coats and it looks very nice and not plasticky. Shellac will work too but it's not nearly as durable especially in a high traffic area. Pre cat is nearly as durable as plastic laminate
 
lambeater said:
Well I got some General satin enduro var this week from Lee Valley, set up my shop with plastic for a temporary spray booth and final sanded my bamboo counter top. Did a little practice piece with my Sharpe Cobalt HVLP gun then time to do the real job. Sprayed 5 coats (got carried away since it is waterbourne) Sanded with 320 between coats for the first 2 then 400 for the rest. Had to change my technique after the first couple of coats, got a couple of edge runs, But once that was corrected the rest went on pretty good. Overall I really like the finish and the test piece seems to have dryed as hard as an oil based finish. The finish does amber slightly but not as much as oil. Will post pictures after counter top in installed.

thx
Lambeater

From what Ive read, W/B finish actually is a tougher finish then O/B because it has more solids.  All Ive used in the 15 years was W/B. I have never had a complaint about it.

Next time try thinning the first coat to act as a sealer coat. I sand with 180 then spray 2 coats full strength. Give it a few days to cure completely.

Even though they say it wil dry and can be recoated in 2 hours or less. I let is cure for 2 days prior to installing.
 
I'fe found some stuif at woodcraft.com  Some finishers.

Do they ship to Europe, the netherlands ? Does anybody know ?
 
Richard Leon said:
Don't use oil on the cabinet inside as it will smell forever.

Shellac is not the most waterproof finish but it does look good and is easy to apply. I would go with shellac and leave it at that.

Good advice from Richard (as always).  A simple application of shellac may be all you need.  Try it on some scrap and see if you like the effect.

Zinnser dewaxed shellac is a good product, but there is nothing magic about it.  Dewaxed shellac is a very common (and historic) finish throughout the world, should be easy to find in brands other than Zinnser.  And if you are using only shellac, and not oil, you don't even need to worry whether it is dewaxed or not.

And Richard is right - beware of oil on the inside of cabinets, drawers, etc.  it will smell!
 
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