Cabinet door with euro hinge repair questions

[balrog]

I have been asked to repair a kitchen cabinet door that a child tried to use as a "ladder" to retrieve something with less than positive results. It seems that while the wood rail and stile with floating panel doors and cup side of the hinges survived, the carcass side hinge screws have torn out of the melamine. I only have the door and the cup side of the side of the hinge- I have not seen the damaged carcass yet.

Now I have a few questions:

Can I use a 1-3/8" forstner bit instead of 35 mm? The dimensions seem pretty close.

Any cut quality advantage of using carbide vs HSS?

Are there suggestions of fastener/inserts to use on the hinge mounting points of the carcass?

This project is a favor to someone. Since the store is in the opposite direction of the house, I just want to make one trip to the store.

Thanks for the help!

 

[AlexThePalex]

Doing a small calculation tells me that 1-3/8'' is 34,9 mm which I think is close enough to 35 mm to not make a difference.

 

[Alan m]

as long as the hindge fits in the hole reasonably snuggly it will be good.
make sure you have enough. buy 2 of every thing just to be sure [wink] [big grin]

as for the holes in the melimine i see a few solutions.
if it is only one layer thick of melamine then you will have to plug the hole and re drill
you could get one of those hindges for the 32mm system that have 2 plastic plugs that you bang in and drive the screw, just widen the stripped out holes.
if there is 2 layers you could use a longer screw.
you could even use a wrawl plug in a larger hole if you want

 

[ccmviking]

  Without seeing it, it's hard to tell for sure.  Sometimes you can drill out with an 8mm bit and install plastic dowels that you can then re-attach the plate to.  Seems like you were wanting the bit to re-drill on the door side and re-locate the mounting plate to a different set of mounting holes (shelf pin holes).  What I would do provided there is enough wood no busted,  is install an inline mounting plate as in the pictures below.  Of course it depends on a lot of factors to get hinges to work together, and not knowing the brand, etc. it may not be as easy as just replacing one.  I usually have pretty good luck now with getting people to send a picture either via their pc or cell phone.  Really helps in situations like this knowing what to bring with you.

 

[waho6o9]

Move the hinges? 

 

[jmbfestool]

Thats what I was thinkin waho 609!    I wouldnt drill the 35mm holes in the doors yet untill you got to the job as saw the damage!   Like mentioned you can get different hinges which attach to the carcasses different methods  and some have plastic plugs which come with them their are different sorts some are better than others.    You might find the hinges where attached to the unit with the plug method in the first place which could mean the holes will be to big and badly damaged  oppose to small screws being ripped out.

 

[balrog]

I intend on moving the hinges, that is the reason for obtaining the forstener bit to drill the cup side of the hinge on the door. The door is not damaged, it is the carcass hinge mounting points that are damaged. I was going to obtain a variety of fasteners for the carcass mounting side after I relocate the hinges at the project site. Just trying to save a trip back to the store.

 

[Frank-Jan]

A few weeks ago I had a similar job, in the house we were remodelling they had a cupboard in the bathroom with a fairly high door (1.8m), with a mirror glued to the door. The sides were melamine with a particleboard core and the screws of the bottom hinge wouldn't hold anymore. I drilled the holes a bit bigger, and put som 2k chemical anchor in. (like the stuff used for gluing rebar/threaded rods into concrete, but then in tiny tubes with little mixertips. Just to be sure, I did the hinge above the bottom one aswell.

The stuff I used was from a company called veidec, but it's similar to this by fischer (but then black, and looks like it becomes harder): link

/edit: those standard baseplates, like the first picture in ccmvikings's post also have an extra screwhole in the centre, behind the hinge-arm. It might be as simple as putting in a screw there (since in your case it wasn't caused by the door itself being too heavy) (in my case someone else already did that)