Cabinets by Domino

[clintholeman]

On my blog are some pix of some cabinets [these are the vanities] I am making using Domino almost exclusively for joining.  It is simply the best way to do it.  I've tried biscuits, pocket screws, you name it - this is THE way to make cabinets.  I really loved how easy it was to join the face frame to the carcase.  Fast, precise and, did I say fast?

 

[ROb McGilp]

Hi Clint,

If you think its good with cabinets, wait till you try it with chairs! 8)

Albert

 

[LaserGecko]

Inspiring, as always, Clint!

It looks like you could use a few of those BowClamps.

 

[Dan Clark]

That's interesting.  I had the same reaction. 

Clint, sorry to hijack your thread, but have you ever looked at BowClamps?  What did you think of them?

Regards,

Dan.

 

[clintholeman]

That's interesting.  I had the same reaction. 

Clint, sorry to hijack your thread, but have you ever looked at BowClamps?  What did you think of them?

Regards,

Dan.

Problem is they only come in 4' lengths...  :

I really like those aluminum clamps and am planning on buying more of them.  With Domino, I think the bowclamps would be a good idea for some projects.  It appears to be a good concept.

Albert-

I have used Domino on a bench - I built it with all Domino joints - even a couple of through tenons.  I have to make a pretty cool looking chair for my next project.  Actually lots of stuff - bed, side tables, armoire, chair and stool.  Domino will get lots of use.  Also, I have designed a couple of chairs I want to make with Domino after I finish or the next time I have a little time.

 

[Brian Livingstone]

Clint,

Can you provide a brief explanation of how you join the face frames to the carcase ?  I ask because I am about to do the same, and could use some advice. 

Specifically, my face frame in this case is say 2 3/4 inch wide.  The 3/4 inch carcase should be centred in the middle of the stile.  How do you line up the domino ?

Thanks Clint.

Brian

 

[sroxberg]

I've actually used Domino's and Pocket Screws together on a unit. I used the Domino's for strength and alignment and the pocket screws as clamps to hold it while the glue dried.

 

[Ted Miller]

I've actually used Domino's and Pocket Screws together on a unit. I used the Domino's for strength and alignment and the pocket screws as clamps to hold it while the glue dried.

I do the same and I don't use clamps anymore as long as the pocket holes are hidden. Carcass assembly is now cut in half, just love it.

For 3/4" carcass work I use the 6mm bit on the Domi and it centers the stock perfect...

 

[Richard M]

On my blog are some pix of some cabinets [these are the vanities] I am making using Domino almost exclusively for joining.  It is simply the best way to do it.  I've tried biscuits, pocket screws, you name it - this is THE way to make cabinets.  I really loved how easy it was to join the face frame to the carcase.  Fast, precise and, did I say fast?

Where do I find your blog?

 

[Dave Rudy]

Where do I find your blog?

Look at his signature line -- woodnsoulblogspot.com

By the way Clint, I greatly enjoy reading your blog from time to time.  Maybe when I'm next in the Sonoma area I'll email you and try to meet for a glass of wine.

Dave

 

[clintholeman]

Where do I find your blog?

Look at his signature line -- woodnsoulblogspot.com

By the way Clint, I greatly enjoy reading your blog from time to time.  Maybe when I'm next in the Sonoma area I'll email you and try to meet for a glass of wine.

Dave

FOGgers are always welcome!  And I've been known to hoist a glass or two - but only the good stuff ;D.

Richard - My blog address ishttp://woodnsoul.blogspot.com -- it is in my siggy at the bottom of my post and may be obscured - I should put it in when I refer to it :-[

How do I attach the face frame to the carcase?  I mortise the top, bottom, and sides using Domino.  Be sure to put mortise from the outside, except on the bottom. the interior panels, I center the Doino bit. I flip the face frame over and mortise the outside rails and stiles to match the carcase.  Then I take a straight edge, clamp it to the interior stiles lining up the bit to the center line of the stile, and mortise the face frame stiles to match the carcase.  I usually use the wider moritse in the plywood and the tight setting in the face frame.  Domino has a mark where the centerline of the bit is - I just line it up with the centerline on the interior stiles, clamp the straght edge in place and Domino away!  I use 2" rails and stiles on almost everything.

 

[munchcolo]

Clint, when making face frames for a plywood carcass, do you make the face frame slightly proud of the carcass, and then plane or rout to flush with the carcass?  Or is there a better method?

 

[clintholeman]

Clint, when making face frames for a plywood carcass, do you make the face frame slightly proud of the carcass, and then plane or rout to flush with the carcass?  Or is there a better method?

There may be a better method, but I usually leave a tiny [1/16 - ] proud then route it down in the traditional way.  No magic here...  I may experiment with Domino leaving less - just enough to sand down a little on a set and see how that works.  One does not want to be shy of the mark and I guess it is better to have to much than too little

 

[munchcolo]

Thanks Clint.  That's kind of what I was wondering.  What with the Domino's ability to line up pieces really tight, could one get by with exact measurements on the face frame?

When routing the proud edge, what type of bit do you use?  I've read about a "shear cut flush trim" bit that is supposed to be good for this application.

 

[clintholeman]

Thanks Clint.  That's kind of what I was wondering.  What with the Domino's ability to line up pieces really tight, could one get by with exact measurements on the face frame?

When routing the proud edge, what type of bit do you use?  I've read about a "shear cut flush trim" bit that is supposed to be good for this application.

I use this: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8074 or this: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8077

These are Whiteside bits, which I like a lot.  I love the FesTool bits, though I don't have many.  I've been using Bosch bits quite a bit lately [bad pun] and have found them to work well.  Perhaps someone knows who makes them for Bosch, if they don't themselves.  They really cut cleanly.

I think, even with Domino, I would normally leave the face frame a little proud, though I will try it out on the kitchen cabinets I'm doing next.  I'm pretty careful in my shop about dinging work pieces, but it happens, and having a little extra on that exposed edge is a nice comfort factor.  Trimming it down doesn't take long.  Just my opinion...

 

[LaserGecko]

I used to sharpen router bits at a woodworking company. Best guess is that 80% of the traffic through there were Whiteside bits. Best bits and best carbide on the market (IMHO) and made in America for the same price as the "good" bits sold at the big stores.

 

[clintholeman]

I used to sharpen router bits at a woodworking company. Best guess is that 80% of the traffic through there were Whiteside bits. Best bits and best carbide on the market (IMHO) and made in America for the same price as the "good" bits sold at the big stores.

About 80% of my router bits are Whiteside - I gotta say I've never had a bad one.  And the are American made! What more can one say...

 

[Sam Murdoch]

            I have recently purchase a Domino and if I can't use it to attach face frames flush to plywood cabinetry you will be reading a for sale posting. For the last decade at least all my  kitchen and bathroom cabinetry has been built with flush to carcass face frames using biscuit joinery. Typically I work with pre-finished plywood interiors and stain grade hardwood frames, flush on bottom and two sides, and with any number of horizontal partitions being flushed to the face frame, with no trimming needed. The face frame assembly can be for a single cabinet or can be 8 feet +/- long and attached to three or four cabinets secured together as a unit (plan your moving and installs carefully). Never had a problem using the Lamello to achieve flush and truly hope that the Domino will be every bit as good. One trick of the trade to accommodate the aberrant plywood thickness irregularities that might flaw the feel of flushness is to rout the tiniest little radius or hand sand a slight round to the edge of plywood and face frame edges that will be aligned. This is a subtle detail that is completely inoffensive, and makes a very fine stain or paint break, though I prefer to pre-finish or at least pre-prime my face frames before attaching them to the cabinets,  makes glue clean up a cinch. This system has worked very well  for every manner of plywood box to solid wood face frame assemblies. Flush is beautiful! Hope you won't be seeing my Domino for sale any time soon.

 

[Sam Murdoch]

Complete success! A little learning curve involved but my stain grade face frames are nicely flush with my prefinished plywood boxes. The Domino stays.

Sam