Can I edge joint boards with only TS75?

amt

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Can I edge joint 4/4 hardwood with just a TS75?  I am planning on buying some 4/4 rough white oak, and I am wondering if I can rip the sides with just a TS75, and the sides would be clean enough for glue-up.  I saw a youtube video a few weeks back where someone tested a TS75 and claimed the cut was clean enough to do this, and I am wondering if others had the same experience.  I do have a 12" surface planer which I will use on the face of the boards.
 
Yep, me too. [smile]

I use this method when jointing sections of Solid Surface worktop. It gives me perfect joints every time with both the TS 55 and TS75.

Tim.
 
I think there is a simpler way to do this joint and doesn't require clamping both boards down, which is not always advisable as the offcut should be free to move.

Rip one edge, then flip the second board end for end and rip its edge. Then flip it back over and glue them together. If your blade is not perfectly perpendicular to the face the two cuts will compensate for each other and total 180 degrees. This is match planing.

I made a video about the technique here.

 
  The end for end flip to rip the second board will work if both boards are close to flat with no undulations. If the rail tilts or twists slightly different on one compared to the other the joint won't match as well.  Cutting both at once works even if the flatness of the two pieces doesn't match because both sides of the cut are effectively referenced from the same piece. 

Seth
 
Done this myself with both the TS75 and 55. couldn't be more happy. depending on mood and requirements, I'll edgeband a part  by taking a piece of highlighting / contrasting timber say 1-1/2" x thickness or over thickness of board, on my spindle moulder (festool CMS + OF2200 UK version) I create a tongue and groove method, then glue, edge  trim and finish. Love it all.

lew
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions.  It's probably been about 22 years since I did any milling of lumber (back in high school, when they had great classes like woodworking!).  I am sure I'll end up using one or both methods here.  However, before I do that, I need to build a planer sled to get the faces flat and parallel.
 
SRSemenza said:
   The end for end flip to rip the second board will work if both boards are close to flat with no undulations. If the rail tilts or twists slightly different on one compared to the other the joint won't match as well.  Cutting both at once works even if the flatness of the two pieces doesn't match because both sides of the cut are effectively referenced from the same piece. 

Seth

Right. Though often internal tension causes both boards to bend as they are ripped and you have to push them back together and make another pass. (actually I think that is what Bob did in John Lucas's post years ago)
 
As others have said, this method works well and the TS 75 is a perfect tool for the job and thicker hardwood.  I find taking a little off works very well and sometimes it takes a couple of passes to get it just right.  I love straight-line ripping with the TS and the guide rails allows you to position the machine to take advantage of grain orientation.

Scot
 
Nearly all my panel glueups start with that technique to exactly match the panels for a clean joint.  Couldn't be easier.
 
I usually plane edge joints, one way or another (Hand or machine) but I see no reason why the edge from a Festool saw shouldn't be good enough for everyday work.
This might be an area for some test joints, to see how clean a joint can be obtained. I don't have the time sadly!  ;D

Rearguards

Hookie
 
Sparktrician said:
Here's a very good way to do edge jointing using a TS.  

But why?

SRSemenza said:
  The end for end flip to rip the second board will work if both boards are close to flat with no undulations. If the rail tilts or twists slightly different on one compared to the other the joint won't match as well.  Cutting both at once works even if the flatness of the two pieces doesn't match because both sides of the cut are effectively referenced from the same piece.  
Seth

I'm with RL on this one. Except beside flipping boards I also stack them together (same trick as jointing with hand plane btw). That way you are still referencing from the same piece as you've mentioned. Single cut. Done.
 
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