Can I have some assistance on a kitchen pantry overhaul?

[Skellyy]

Not sure if this is allowed in the "projects" forum, but can I get some assistance on a kitchen pantry overhaul?

Kitchen cabinets are built very well (3/4''), however the pantry system is sub par at best.  I will let the pictures do the talking, but the slides and support system for the drawers is weak one drawer has already fallen/broke.

I need to redesign the slide/support system, but am unsure about what is the best way to make this happen.

Firstly, I ordered identical size ball bearing slides, 100# rated with soft close today. 

My questions are as follows:

1.  What is the best way to fill the gap from the side of the pantry (3/4'' plywood) and the cabinet slide?  The distance is 1.875''.  Should I just rip some 1.875'' wood and mount in parallel to the slides? 

2.  How would I mount the wood to the sides of the cabinet? Glue & screw?  I have a Domino if that is an option.

3.  If glue and screw, what type of glue and screw?

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[donwon]

I had the exact same problem in my kitchen. I had side pieces made out of particle board that failed.

I only needed 3/4" spacers and not the 1.875" you mention so I was not worried about the moment ( turning force) the slides would put on the spacer. That is what has happened to your existing mounts and why it has failed. To overcome this, I would use bigger pieces of plywood cut to make the spacers so it is oversized and can distribute the load better or run a couple of runners vertical between the spacers to stop the spacers from pulling out and down on the side walls. They would have to be the same thickness as the spacers.

I used Baltic birch plywood with urethane and it turned out well. I could shape the drawer fronts anyway I wanted and very smooth finish with no edge banding!  I used the remaining wood for the spacers. I glued and screwed as you mention. If you add the extra support as mentioned the glue will not be as important.

For mounting what I did was start at the bottom. Use a piece of plywood flat on the bottom as a spacer and then pre attach your slides to the spacers and then mount all this to the sides. Then slide in the drawer all the way to where it will sit in the final position. Mark where the slides would be at the edge of the slide. Now, pull out the slides and the drawer together just enough to be able to get a drill to put your first screw in. Makes sure your slides are still lined up and then put the screws in for the first hole. Now continue to pull out the drawer and add all the screws. Once the drawer is out all the way pull out the plywood spacer. It will be a little tough as it is wedged in there. Now your drawer is fully installed and should slide freely. To mount the next drawer, put the plywood saver on top of the outer edges of the drawer or cut scrap vertical blocks to put on the side spacers. Install the slides and side pieces together to the sides of the cabinet and keep repeating. This method works really well and allows for any errors as you mount your slides. I believe there are videos to show this better than I explained!

Good luck and this project just requires a bit of planning for scrap pieces to get the drawers spaced correctly. Installation should be quick though. Also I think you have the right slides for what you are doing.

 

[david.lock]

I would make 2 new gables almost full height. Use 3/4" material and a wide spacer for the front and back
It you make your gables about 1/4" short then you can do all your layout in the ground on a flat panel, measure up from the btm on both. Be sure to keep the new gable back from the front to allow for the hinge.
If you edge tape the front of the gable and put the other spacer right at the front it looks neat and tidy. The other option is to mount a "face" piece on your spacer and your gable that is the same material so it looks cleaner when looking at it from the front.

If you don't understand I can send a few pictures along of what I mean and what we do at our company

 

[mleny77]

I'm going to try and use this design in a few base cabinets I'm building. I like how you can change the spacing with out taking the entire unit apart.

 

[tiralie]

I think it would be easier, and look better just to change those hinges to Euro hinges that allow for pullout slides and remake the drawers wider so you can mount the drawers on the inside of the cabinet.

1.  What is the best way to fill the gap from the side of the pantry (3/4'' plywood) and the cabinet slide?  The distance is 1.875''.  Should I just rip some 1.875'' wood and mount in parallel to the slides? 

Other than remaking the drawers to fit the hardware available, adding wood to the sides is the easiest.

2.  How would I mount the wood to the sides of the cabinet? Glue & screw?  I have a Domino if that is an option.

Screws. This will allow you to take it apart later if you want to change the system.

3.  If glue and screw, what type of glue and screw?

Use particle board screws. You could tack it with some bradsand then use 1" or 1.25" screws to attach the slider and adding more strength to the wood.
tim

 

[tjbnwi]

Tenn-Tex cabinet standards
http://www.tenntex.com

You have to make new rolling shelves.

Looks like you have 3/8" lipped doors (a picture from farther away would help to see the detail), I'd leave the knife hinges.

Tom

 

[Skellyy]

UPDATE!

Appreciate all the feedback that was provided.  Did a little further research and ultimately chose the easiest route.

Bought some 2''x.75'' poplar from Lowes and had to rip down to 1.5''.  Ripping thin stock with a circular saw was not easy/safe so I had to get creative.

Few things I learned.

-The vertical braces in the back of the cabinet I placed too close to the back wall.  I could not get my drill in place to tighten the pocket screws.

-When I drew my mounting lines, I did not have the wood in the right orientation, as you can see the pocket holes are not symmetrical.

Wife is so glad this project is finished.

 

[Skellyy]

Moron forgot to attach the pics.

 

[Scorpion]

Looks good, nice job!  Get (or make) some matching pocket hole plugs, glue them in, and you'll barely be able to see the holes up close.