Can the Steel blade for TS75 cut copper?
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Holmz
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I cut 0.024" metal with a jigsaw, and it dances around something fierce.
You really need 2 teeth in the material, so you need a 40-50 tpi blade.
I think a 55 may be better as diameter is smaller, but whatever you try turn the speed down. Copper is softer than titanium or steel, but I recall it can be a bit gummy depending on something (alloy/hardness)??? Other times it was like aluminum and easy.
I think you just need to "have at it", or "give it a go".
You really need 2 teeth in the material, so you need a 40-50 tpi blade.
I think a 55 may be better as diameter is smaller, but whatever you try turn the speed down. Copper is softer than titanium or steel, but I recall it can be a bit gummy depending on something (alloy/hardness)??? Other times it was like aluminum and easy.
I think you just need to "have at it", or "give it a go".
Cheese
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Edward, my first choice would be a metal shear such as this. It actually leaves a nice rounded edge so that it's finger friendly and you won't tear up your hands.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6852-20
The second shot would be to sandwich the copper sheet between 2 sheets of ply and have at it. It will leave a very sharp edge which will then have to be deburred.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6852-20
The second shot would be to sandwich the copper sheet between 2 sheets of ply and have at it. It will leave a very sharp edge which will then have to be deburred.
ear3
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Thanks for the replies -- it will be on site, so I won't have access to my bandsaw. I was thinking about the aluminum blade for the TS55, but was concerned that the relatively greater hardness of the copper would toast the blade. For whatever reason, they don't maker a steel blade available for the TS55.
I like the idea of the plywood sandwich, though, and think I will try that. The metal shears may be a second option -- but the cut is pretty long and the edge will be exposed to view, so I want to get as clean a cut as possible.
I like the idea of the plywood sandwich, though, and think I will try that. The metal shears may be a second option -- but the cut is pretty long and the edge will be exposed to view, so I want to get as clean a cut as possible.
Cheese
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Edward, after seeing your latest post about length & straightness of cut, I'd revise my previous advice.
If this was my project, I'd start with the TS 55 with aluminum blade & plywood sandwich. The ply sandwich keeps the edge of the copper from deforming. At a thickness of .031" or less, the copper is approximately the same thickness of sheet metal used in HVAC applications...pretty flimsy. Again the edge will need to be deburred and a tool such as this is the easiest. You can also use a small fine file, it just takes a bit longer and it can produce a bit less consistent edge because it relies on technique.http://www.vargus.com/shaviv/
The hand held metal shears is the safest and the edge is a finished one, however cutting long straight lengths can be problematic.
When handling the cut copper, wear some good gloves to prevent cuts. The edge before deburring can be as sharp as a razor blade. Sometimes you won't even know you've been cut until you see the blood on the metal. [eek]
If you need to produce many long straight strips of copper, your best solution is to find a local metal shop and pay them to run the copper through their hydraulic metal shear.
If this was my project, I'd start with the TS 55 with aluminum blade & plywood sandwich. The ply sandwich keeps the edge of the copper from deforming. At a thickness of .031" or less, the copper is approximately the same thickness of sheet metal used in HVAC applications...pretty flimsy. Again the edge will need to be deburred and a tool such as this is the easiest. You can also use a small fine file, it just takes a bit longer and it can produce a bit less consistent edge because it relies on technique.http://www.vargus.com/shaviv/
The hand held metal shears is the safest and the edge is a finished one, however cutting long straight lengths can be problematic.
When handling the cut copper, wear some good gloves to prevent cuts. The edge before deburring can be as sharp as a razor blade. Sometimes you won't even know you've been cut until you see the blood on the metal. [eek]
If you need to produce many long straight strips of copper, your best solution is to find a local metal shop and pay them to run the copper through their hydraulic metal shear.
As Cheese mentioned if the cuts are long and straight then the best bet would be to have a shop cut them on their shear. It would take less time than reading this thread and the cut would be good.
The sheet metal folks do this kind of stuff day in and day out. Check with the supplier of your metal.
The sheet metal folks do this kind of stuff day in and day out. Check with the supplier of your metal.
Michael Kellough
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Second the ply sandwich.
Then you can use the regular fine tooth blade or even a combination blade.
The main function of the ply is to keep the soft copper from being pushed up by the saw teeth.
You can get by with ply on top and foam on the bottom.
Another option is to put the guide rail directly on the copper and ply/mdf/something firm under the copper but you have to put the blade on backwards. The above ply sandwich is best but if you have to see the marks on the copper to place the guide rail correctly this is better than cutting in the wrong place.
Then you can use the regular fine tooth blade or even a combination blade.
The main function of the ply is to keep the soft copper from being pushed up by the saw teeth.
You can get by with ply on top and foam on the bottom.
Another option is to put the guide rail directly on the copper and ply/mdf/something firm under the copper but you have to put the blade on backwards. The above ply sandwich is best but if you have to see the marks on the copper to place the guide rail correctly this is better than cutting in the wrong place.
