Cantilever Cabinet Installations and Water Line Nightmares

[Jonhilgen]

I really could have used a sys-bucket instead...I hit a water line installing cabinets on the other side of the wall while installing cabinets in another room.  Turns out, a couple of sys 2s can hold a lot of water.  Just enough, in fact that it bought the builder enough time to get the water shut off without causing a lot of damage!

Oh the joys of installing.  I'll upload a pic of the wall pre-sheetrock that the builder "meant to send me prior to cabinet installation because it was such a rats nest of lines in the wall.

Jon

 

[builderbob]

Jon, I'm very looking forward to that photo!  Sorry to hear that happened but I'm glad you had some Systainers though!

Bob

 

[Jonhilgen]

Jon, I'm very looking forward to that photo!  Sorry to hear that happened but I'm glad you had some Systainers though!

Bob

Bob, the file is too large and I can't modify it with picsay for some reason.  Argh.

Jon

 

[builderbob]

Here's JonHilgens photo...no wonder why he hit a pipe!

Bob

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

[jawdrop] [blink] [scared]

 

[Jonhilgen]

All better.  Now back on topic.

 

[tiralie]

All better.  Now back on topic.

Jon:
Cool looking cabinets and nice install. Those floating or cantilevered cabinets can be an interesting install, to say the least.
What is the face and doors (veneer) made of?
I'm not sure I have ever seen any with caps (on the boxes) like that.
How did you attach, support the cabinet?
Tim

 

[woodguy7]

I'm with Tim, love the look of those cabinets.  Also would like to know the same info as Tim requested.
finished pics when done also ?
Cheers.

 

[Jonhilgen]

I'm with Tim, love the look of those cabinets.  Also would like to know the same info as Tim requested.
finished pics when done also ?
Cheers.

Ok guys, ill spin off a thread in a bit.  Have a couple of jobs going on with suspended cabinets, one, with traditional wood finishes, another with high gloss.

Jon

 

[Jonhilgen]

All better.  Now back on topic.

Jon:
Cool looking cabinets and nice install. Those floating or cantilevered cabinets can be an interesting install, to say the least.
What is the face and doors (veneer) made of?
I'm not sure I have ever seen any with caps (on the boxes) like that.
How did you attach, support the cabinet?
Tim

Tim/Woodguy,

The cabinets are maple ply/veneer with a stain.  Very simple, but looks great.  The bottom cabinet is simply a faceframe cabinet with 1 1/2" stiles and rails.

As far as install goes, we (I) go to the jobsite and install blocking in the wall, then install 2" angle iron to the blocking with lags. Very simple, especially when the angle iron is installed level!   Then its just a matter of setting the cabinets on it and screwing them to the wall without hitting a water line.  On the return walls, I install a vertical block beside the cabinet so I can get some screws into the sides of the cabinet for some insurance.

Here's a better picture on another job a few blocks away prior and post install.  The blue is high gloss!  Kitchen is high gloss white, with a black high gloss island.  Will post pics of that a little later.

Jon

Jon

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Jon,

Interesting use of the angle iron.  Thanks for the pics!

 

[tiralie]

Jon:
Thanks.
Do you reinforce the side cabs where you put the blocking?
Any problems with the top back pulling away from the wall if someone leans too heavily on front?
Have you ever used a french cleat on these floating cabs?
Tim

 

[Jonhilgen]

Jon:
Thanks.
Do you reinforce the side cabs where you put the blocking?
Any problems with the top back pulling away from the wall if someone leans too heavily on front?
Have you ever used a french cleat on these floating cabs?
Tim

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12"
gap between the cabinet side and the wall, I put say, 1 7/16 blocking on the wall so I can secure the cabinet sideways using a shim to fill the small gap between the cabinet and blocking.  Make sense? 

Haven't used a French cleat.  We've used this method for years now and haven't had any problem with excessive weight being placed on the front of the cabinets.

 

[tiralie]

Make sense?   

Perfect.
Thought that's what you did. Just needed to make sure there wasn't a trick  [big grin] I was missing.
Thanks again.
Tim

 

[Sparktrician]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

 

[mastercabman]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

What he means is that the cabinet does not go all the way to the wall.He has a spacer/filler between the wall and cabinet.So he would put a piece of wood/cleat screwed to the blocking inside the wall that he installed before sheetrock , and then secure the cabinet to the cleat.
I think that's what he did.  Jon?

 

[Sparktrician]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

What he means is that the cabinet does not go all the way to the wall.He has a spacer/filler between the wall and cabinet.So he would put a piece of wood/cleat screwed to the blocking inside the wall that he installed before sheetrock , and then secure the cabinet to the cleat.
I think that's what he did.  Jon?

The question was about the "1/12" gap" stated, not the blocking. 

[unsure]

 

[Jonhilgen]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

What he means is that the cabinet does not go all the way to the wall.He has a spacer/filler between the wall and cabinet.So he would put a piece of wood/cleat screwed to the blocking inside the wall that he installed before sheetrock , and then secure the cabinet to the cleat.
I think that's what he did.  Jon?

The question was about the "1/12" gap" stated, not the blocking. 

[unsure]

Cabman hit the nail on the head.  See pic, it should clear it up.  Have to have fillers on cabinets that butt up tp walls in order for doors and drawers to operate without hitting door casings, house base, and to give yourself some wiggle room because walls are never plumb.

Jon

 

[tjbnwi]

With an 1 1/2" space and the 1/2" drywall installed after the 2x2 angle iron, there can't be much of the leg for the cabinet to rest on.

I understand the gap and filler at the sides, I don't recall ever needing that much at the rear.

Tom

 

[Jonhilgen]

That last pic was a side shot.  There isn't any space at the back.  No legs on this cabinet either, its a "floating" cab.
.
Here's another bath, same house