Cantilever Cabinet Installations and Water Line Nightmares

[greg mann]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

What he means is that the cabinet does not go all the way to the wall.He has a spacer/filler between the wall and cabinet.So he would put a piece of wood/cleat screwed to the blocking inside the wall that he installed before sheetrock , and then secure the cabinet to the cleat.
I think that's what he did.  Jon?

The question was about the "1/12" gap" stated, not the blocking. 

[unsure]

1 1/12 should have been 1 1/2. Inch and a half versus inch and a twelth.

 

[Sparktrician]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

What he means is that the cabinet does not go all the way to the wall.He has a spacer/filler between the wall and cabinet.So he would put a piece of wood/cleat screwed to the blocking inside the wall that he installed before sheetrock , and then secure the cabinet to the cleat.
I think that's what he did.  Jon?

The question was about the "1/12" gap" stated, not the blocking. 

[unsure]

1 1/12 should have been 1 1/2. Inch and a half versus inch and a twelth.

It was the one-twelfth of an inch statement that caused me to question the statement.  I rather suspected that it should have read one half inch. 

[unsure]

 

[mastercabman]

Tim, the vertical blocking I install on the side walls is post-sheetrock.  So if I have an 1 /12" gap between the cabinet side and the wall,

Que???

[blink]

What he means is that the cabinet does not go all the way to the wall.He has a spacer/filler between the wall and cabinet.So he would put a piece of wood/cleat screwed to the blocking inside the wall that he installed before sheetrock , and then secure the cabinet to the cleat.
I think that's what he did.  Jon?

The question was about the "1/12" gap" stated, not the blocking. 

[unsure]

Cabman hit the nail on the head.  See pic, it should clear it up.  Have to have fillers on cabinets that butt up tp walls in order for doors and drawers to operate without hitting door casings, house base, and to give yourself some wiggle room because walls are never plumb.

Jon

Yep, anytime you're dealling with full overlay,you need to put a spacer/filler between wall and cabinet.Very common mistake among cabinet designers witch i have to correct all the time!

 

[Steve R]

Hmmm... the original post was about hitting water pipes.... and now we are talking cabs with L iron install .... hmmm Some moderators would normally have split this off in to new thread.... what has changed...  [poke]

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Jonhilgen]

Hmmm... the original post was about hitting water pipes.... and now we are talking cabs with L iron install .... hmmm Some moderators would normally have split this off in to new thread.... what has changed...  [poke]

Cheers,
Steve

Steve, this was split off another syslight thread by Seth quite early on.  The water pipes were hit during one of the floating vanity installs. 

Jon

 

[peter halle]

Splitting this topic would have been a good thing to do (thanks for the reminder Steve -  [thumbs up]) but would have left a rather disjointed thread at the beginning, so I renamed it.

Peter

 

[Jonhilgen]

Woodguy,

Finished pic.  Uploading from iPhone for first time, so might to be one shot at a time.

Edit:  the FOG couldn't handle the awesomeness of the picture, so I'm going to have I resize it.
Jon

 

[woodguy7]

LOL, like it  [big grin]

 

[Jonhilgen]

Tenth times a charm.  Here we go?

 

[Jonhilgen]

Got the hang of it.

 

[tbellemare]

Are you coming to Austin with your crew soon, Jon?

Tom

 

[Jonhilgen]

Sure Tom!  I wish I could take credit for the bathroom design.  I just installed the cabinets...

 

[peter halle]

Great stuff!  Glad my possible move didn't work out.  My minor league skills would have been going against you.  [scared] [scared]

Rock on and keep doing what you are doing!

Peter

 

[Jonhilgen]

Thanks Peter!  Now that I have this picture thing figured out, hopefully ill be posting some more projects.
Here's some more pictures of the house.  This is the infamous hood that cost me 945.00.

Led lighting had to be routed flush (use my of2000 for it). 

 

[peter halle]

Are you posting from your phone?

Peter

 

[Jonhilgen]

Yes, from iPhone 4S.  But downloaded Everclipper so I could resize pictures and it works great.

 

[woodguy7]

That is stunning, all of it.  Well i don't like the tiles on the shower floor but each to their own.

Keep posting the pics  ;D

 

[tiralie]

Jon:
Looks good.
I'm not sure about the cubbies under the vanity but the room looks awesome.
Nice pictures too.
Tim

 

[sandy]

After a few waterline / electrical wire close calls, I now only cut through dry wall using my Fein Multimaster with a straight blade which allows me to cut straight in, rather than "sawing" through the drywall.  That way the depth of cut is only the thickness of the drywall. Also, I make a small opening, and then look inside with a flashlight and mirror to make sure I know where the lines, studs, and fire stops are located.  I have lots of Festools, but for the initial cut into drywall with unknown interior, I only use the Fein.

 

[Sparktrician]

After a few waterline / electrical wire close calls, I now only cut through dry wall using my Fein Multimaster with a straight blade which allows me to cut straight in, rather than "sawing" through the drywall.  That way the depth of cut is only the thickness of the drywall. Also, I make a small opening, and then look inside with a flashlight and mirror to make sure I know where the lines, studs, and fire stops are located.  I have lots of Festools, but for the initial cut into drywall with unknown interior, I only use the Fein.

Excellent strategy!!! 

[smile]