Canyon Fire micro adjuster for CSC SYS 50?

Renault4

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Hello all,

I am close to pulling the trigger on a CSC SYS 50 as it seems to hit most of the positives that fit my needs/environment; precision, small footprint, good dust extraction, relatively lower noise.

I note that one complaint Peter Millar has is the lack of a more precise method of adjusting the fence; despite the micro-adjustment capabilities of the blade height and angle, we are still left with the tap-tap-tap approach when it comes to fine adjustment of the fence. Not a deal-breaker by any stretch, however I recently came across the Canyon Fire MicroMag adjuster (canyonfiretools.com) which is designed to work most easily with fences and rails made from ferrous materials as it uses magnets. They do also have some solutions to deal with non-ferrous fences, for example they sell a right angled iron bracket that in principle would attach to the CSC SYS 50 fence--this gets one half way there. Now for the other end to work, it would need some part of the rail along which the fence travels to work with a magnet...

So if you'll forgive the long-winded lead-in, here's my question--is the metal measuring scale on the CSC SYS 50 made of aluminum or steel?

Cheers and thanks!
 
The SYS 50 has been a god send for me, the sliding table was a big factor, and it's every bit as useful as I had hoped.

I have no issue at all sneaking up to fine measurements with the fence. The measuring scale is steel, or stainless steel I think actually.
 
Excellent! So in principle, this solution ‘should’ work, if that was important for owners/buyers.

Thanks
 
In use it's really not that big of a deal to my mind. On the weekend I was machining up a stack of thin oak boards, and I needed to align precisely on the mark, which I found easily achievable with little effort. The fence slides in the slot quite well, and it's not at all a big heavy clunky thing, so it's not like trying to sneak up 0.5mm on a bandsaw fence.

On the list of desirable accessories for the SYS 50, a micro fence adjuster would be pretty low for me.

A longer fence with stops for the slider however, that's extremely useful.
 
so it's not like trying to sneak up 0.5mm on a bandsaw fence.
I finally broke down and put one of these on my Bridgewood PBS-540 bandsaw:

It's quite nice, but not super duper great. However, nudging the fence with the handwheel is very smooth and easy.
 
I finally broke down and put one of these on my Bridgewood PBS-540 bandsaw:

It's quite nice, but not super duper great. However, nudging the fence with the handwheel is very smooth and easy.
Very nice!

I plan to replace my 14" bandsaw with most likely a Laguna BX18, and a mate keeps prodding me to get the Driftmaster if i do, he reckons it's a great bit of kit!
 
Here's the Wood Whisperer's take on it:

FWIW, Harvey has a new bandsaw fence out since the Wood Whisperer reviewed it that is also worth looking at. Actually, Harvey's new bandsaw with all sort of DROs and computer controls (like the Festool tablesaw) is also worth considering if you're going to buy a new bandsaw.
 
@smorgasbord My mate actually has the Harvey HW615Pro and loves it, it's definitely an amazingly high quality machine, but it's close to $2000 more than the Laguna with 50mm less resaw capacity.

Until I do my tax return which is funding this purchase, I am keeping my options open for either model, but the 405mm resaw on the Laguna is very appealing. Also there's the 32mm blade width on the Laguna compared to 25mm for the Harvey.
 
I finally broke down and put one of these on my Bridgewood PBS-540 bandsaw:

It's quite nice, but not super duper great. However, nudging the fence with the handwheel is very smooth and easy.
Not super great? What makes this so?
 
@smorgasbord I'm curious too as to how you find the Driftmaster as it's likely I'll be getting it.

How rigid is it and what's the backlash on the wheel like?

Any general gripes?
 
I suggest (re)watching the Wood Whisperer video I linked above. He's pretty much got the right take, but here's some more:
1) about 90º of backlash in the adjustment. Mine has slightly more than that.
2) The adjustment wheel is more of a "better than tap-tap-tap" kind of thing. It's not anywhere near a micro-adjuster.
3) He doesn't talk about this, but trying to use the edge of the casting as the cursor for the ruler is hard, bad, dumb. I stuck a small magnet on the casting so at least I have a flat surface against which to reference, but I should rig up something with a clear plastic and hairline cursor, or maybe just a DRO instead.
4) The locking control is the gray lever on the other side of the fence. The lever that's big and in front is the thing to hold the pinon against the rack so you can use it to move the fence. I always get it wrong after not using the saw for a couple weeks.
5) The fence itself is fine, just over 180mm tall, which is nice. But the T-slot isn't at the very top, it's recessed on the back, so anything you might want to attach to it needs to accomodate that. You can spend too much money for their flip stop, but it isn't worth it, at least for me.
6) I haven't needed the low position of the fence. Don't know why I would but I guess it's good to have.
 
That's really helpful thanks. I'll rewatch that and a some others.

I did see in one video that when tightened in place it looked like the far end had a bit of side-to-side play when pushed?
 
I did see in one video that when tightened in place it looked like the far end had a bit of side-to-side play when pushed?
Yes, it's not as solid as a good tablesaw fence. There's no play, but there is deflection in the head. That said, I haven't found that a problem in use. I tend to have a side pusher thing in front of the blade when resawing, and while I haven't checked that for deflection, it's small enough that it hasn't bothered me. I suppose if you're setting the fence to blade distance you might get a slighly thicker cut in practice, but I tend to do test cuts on resawing anyway.

Like I said, it's a good fence, but not great.

EDIT: If you want, I'll put a dial indicator on it and give it a push to give you some quantification.
 
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Yes, it's not as solid as a good tablesaw fence. There's no play, but there is deflection in the head. That said, I haven't found that a problem in use. I tend to have a side pusher thing in front of the blade when resawing, and while I haven't checked that for deflection, it's small enough that it hasn't bothered me. I suppose if you're setting the fence to blade distance you might get a slighly thicker cut in practice, but I tend to do test cuts on resawing anyway.

Like I said, it's a good fence, but not great.

EDIT: If you want, I'll put a dial indicator on it and give it a push to give you some quantification.
I don't want to trouble you but yes please! ;-)

My existing bandsaw has a fence that locks at each end, but unless you give the nuts a death grip it moves at the far end quite easily, so I have to resort to clamping it at each end when resawing, which is pretty much what I mainly use the saw for.
 
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