Carrying case for guide rails...

[Jim McFarland]

GreenGA, welcome to the FOG!

BTW, I've purchased from Bob, Timmy C and McFeely's so individually they don't realize they can add "additional dealer profit" to the cost and I'll still buy it.  Although I guess they know it now. 

I still cringe when I think of this exact line ($500 -- almost 10% of the total) that, in 1980, the Honda dealer added to the MSRP sticker for a Civic wagon (and, of course, I bought it anyway, too).

 

[Dave Rudy]

Welcome GreenGA.

Just try to make sure when you stack up all your systainers that you leave a small path for exit (when you turn sideways) or we may never hear from you again.

Bob is not out of tools yet, so I guess there's more to come.

Bob, where is my Kapex?

: ???

 

[GreenGA]

Thanks for the warm welcome...

Well, I have the perfect place for the new toys when not in use.  When I built my home-gym in the garage, I left just enough room, between the wall of the gym and the front of the garage, about 38", to store my "portable" tools; TS, SCLMS, ShopVac (soon to be replaced by the CT22) and now the Systainers for all my new Festool toys. ;D

 

[johnrichardson]

  Hi I got the 1400 guide rail free with the ts55  it came in a  corrugated cardboard box. I have been using that for the past six months as a carrying case. I put a long spirit level in there too !  I was contemplating buying the festool case for two rails but it looks like it is a soft case ?  I have been using the 1400 for cross cutting 4 ft  boards  does this really well..  and also for cutting 8 ft  I just make one cut to the centre
and very care fully realign the rail and complete the cut in two stages , its a bit  nerve wracking as sometimes I get a  very small error but if I do It  is easy to plane / sand out.  However the time  has come for me to fork out for another rail as it seems I am getting a lot more work requiring long cuts in expensive  boards....usually laminates  or veneers ,  so  I am considering  the 2700 mm rail to do it in one nice smooth  cut,  Does anyone have experience of using such a weapon on a jobsite  Ie Inside a  Bedroom  - fitted wardrobes etc it might be too cumbersome.  I used to use a cutting service to cut all my wood  -expensive  , but since i have had the festool i have cut all my wood to  size myself on site this makes more work for me but i get paid for it instead of the cutting people..  I was also considering getting another 1400  and joining with my other 1400 more transportable, but maybe not as dependable as a full 2700?  Also wondered  if anyone knows of a device that squares up the rail  so i can  make cuts perpendicular to edges    some kind of t square like me-ch that fits onto rail  ...  I  have been  using a tape and a sharp pencil  to  date  to  mark both ends and centres of cuts and  lining the rail up along these marks ....    slow..    Regards Festoolers from London England  ;D

 

[EricL]

My 2700 came in a shipping container made of hardboard and 1x2's.  I am not sure if this is how they come from Festool or if it was my dealers packaging but it does a fine job of protecting the rail. 
Eric

 

[peter halle]

From personal experience, please remember that you have to transport the rail to the job.  Make sure it will fit in or on whatever you drive or haul.

Peter

 

[Frank-Jan]

Eric, that's the festool packaging, our FS3000 (old style) came in a similar "box" with small styrofoam inserts, it has held up well the first few years, but when it was left outside when it was raining the hardboard got wavy. We don't use a box anymore, but it is still straight, when I have it in my van (medium wheelbase sprinter) it lies flat on top of the inside rack; when it's in my dad's van it's on its side on top of his rack, keeping other stuff he throws on there from falling down.

 

[Eli]

  Hi I got the 1400 guide rail free with the ts55  it came in a  corrugated cardboard box. I have been using that for the past six months as a carrying case. I put a long spirit level in there too !  I was contemplating buying the festool case for two rails but it looks like it is a soft case ?   I have been using the 1400 for cross cutting 4 ft  boards  does this really well..  and also for cutting 8 ft  I just make one cut to the centre
and very care fully realign the rail and complete the cut in two stages , its a bit  nerve wracking as sometimes I get a  very small error but if I do It  is easy to plane / sand out.  However the time  has come for me to fork out for another rail as it seems I am getting a lot more work requiring long cuts in expensive  boards....usually laminates  or veneers ,  so  I am considering  the 2700 mm rail to do it in one nice smooth  cut,  Does anyone have experience of using such a weapon on a jobsite  Ie Inside a  Bedroom  - fitted wardrobes etc it might be too cumbersome.  I used to use a cutting service to cut all my wood  -expensive  , but since i have had the festool i have cut all my wood to  size myself on site this makes more work for me but i get paid for it instead of the cutting people..  I was also considering getting another 1400  and joining with my other 1400 more transportable, but maybe not as dependable as a full 2700?   Also wondered  if anyone knows of a device that squares up the rail  so i can  make cuts perpendicular to edges    some kind of t square like me-ch that fits onto rail  ...   I  have been  using a tape and a sharp pencil  to  date  to  mark both ends and centres of cuts and  lining the rail up along these marks ....    slow..    Regards Festoolers from London England  ;D

John. Welcome.
1.the case is soft, but great for a 1400. Or two 1400's. Or if you're me, you can stow a 1400+1900, and hang the 1900 out. Kinda ghetto but it gets it there. That's a good length combo for site work. I have a 1080 as well.

2.when you get to the end of the rail, shut off the saw. Lock it in the downward position with the Fast Fix like you were going to change the blade. slide the rail forward under the saw, leaving the blade in the groove, and lining up the rail with the old cut. Do it in a few moves, and you can hang plenty off at the end of the cut. Keeps the cut straight.

3. I use two cheap combo squares. Mark one end, set the square's rule for the offcut edge, to edge of guide rail. Match the other square to it. Slap the rail down, push the combination squares into it, sliding it out until both square's fences are against the offcut edge, and the end of each rule is square against the black rubber strip of the rail. Fast.

4. Maybe hit return every once in a while, space out your thoughts so you're easy to read. There's some OLD F#$%ers on here. Goldam tiny print.......