Carvex 420 going off line on circular cuts

[Wuffles]

As subject, torched a couple of blades trying to figure this out so far. Doesn't happen on a straight cut (even if I put a deliberate wiggle in it) nor does it seem to happen on an anti-clockwise cut - but this could be coincidence.

Material is 10mm ply, nothing too heavy. Cut clockwise a number of times before on much thicker material with no issue whatsoever. Only thing I can suggest is the blade clamp isn't tight enough and that as I am pushing in a particular direction it's popping out of the blade guide?

Just wondered if anyone else had experienced this and what they did to resolve.

There's (perhaps) an image attached that sums it up fairly well.

[attachthumb=#]

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Which blade are you using? It's best to use a thicker blade like the FSG.

It looks like the hole in the center for your trammel point is too large and could be a factor. I think, if memory serves, it's supposed to be 4mm.

Is the circle cutter tightened down good? It looks like it may actually be extending out as you cut.

Shane

 

[Wuffles]

It is 4mm, fits very snugly.

They're Carvex blades, can't recall the number but the first that got torched had been used successfully on a number of 18mm ply and MDF circular cuts before, the rest are from the same pack.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Is the circle cutter's green knob tightened down good? It looks like it may actually be extending out as you cut. Can you verify the measure on the tape is the same when you begin and end the cut?

Can you post a photo with the Carvex and circle cutter included so we can see how that's set up? Just place it back in the existing kerf for the photo maybe.

You shouldn't have any issues cutting in either direction.

 

[Wuffles]

Sorry Shane, perhaps I wasn't clear in my first post. It works perfectly well clockwise (I completed this particular job by starting clockwise and making good). The tape certainly isn't moving. I adjusted it for the second attempt to try and cover up the mess from the first.

The photo was from earlier today, it's finished (and the error has been filled now) so can't really show anything else.

I could see on the second pass that the blade was running out to the right as I looked down and then gently cooking itself on the blade guard. So it was the blade, not the tape - although I can see form the photo that's the conclusion anyone would jump to.

 

[Davej]

Haven't used my circle guide for a while but remember that I was told that the guide is unidirectional , clockwise only , hence your problem going anti clockwise .
Dave

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Haven't used my circle guide for a while but remember that I was told that the guide is unidirectional , clockwise only , hence your problem going anti clockwise .

Dave, I'm not sure who said that, but it's not accurate. The circle cutter wouldn't have the ability to go on the Carvex for counter-clockwise cuts if that were true.

Video @ 3:00.



Some photos showing it being used counter-clockwise...

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Wuffles,

The reason I asked for photos of your configuration was to verify the pin was on the correct side of the circle cutter. The pin should be on the same side as the saw. If it was on the wrong side, that is likely the cause of your problems.

I just noticed the second photo in my previous post actually demonstrates the pin in the WRONG location.

Shane

 

[Wuffles]

Yes, it definitely has been used successfully by me in both directions before.

So, I'll just have to wait to see if anyone else has had this issue. I'm still hoping it was the blade holder not being tight enough. I'd test it, but I'm not willing to sacrifice any more blades.

And in response to your post just now, it's definitely not that. Trust me I've done this a few times, it's one of the reasons I bought this saw.

 

[Wuffles]

Actually, in response to "The pin should be on the same side as the saw. If it was on the wrong side, that is likely the cause of your problems." I fail to see how that would cause the obvious burnout in my original photo?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Actually, in response to "The pin should be on the same side as the saw. If it was on the wrong side, that is likely the cause of your problems." I fail to see how that would cause the obvious burnout in my original photo?

Because it would produce an oval instead of a circle. The blade and pivot point need to be in alignment.

I doubt it's an issue with the jaws being set properly since you replaced the blade.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

In the attached photo, the saw and pin would go in #1 for counter-clockwise cuts and in #2 for clockwise. Hope that helps solve the issue.

[attachimg=#]

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Actually, in response to "The pin should be on the same side as the saw. If it was on the wrong side, that is likely the cause of your problems." I fail to see how that would cause the obvious burnout in my original photo?

Because it would produce an oval instead of a circle. The blade and pivot point need to be in alignment.

I doubt it's an issue with the jaws being set properly since you replaced the blade.

To demonstrate the difference, put the pin in your circle cutter in a piece of scrap. Hold a pencil in the "V" where the saw attaches and draw a circle. Then switch the pin to the other point and do it again. That should show the difference.

I don't have a circle cutter here or I would show you. We were running low on Accessory Kits when we launched the Carvex so I didn't get one.

 

[Wuffles]

Ok. Let's start this again.

It isn't the way the saw was placed on the adaptor versus the centre pin, no matter how many ways to try and suggest I'd done it wrong and post pictures.

I appreciate the responses, but it's not that. I've cut well over a hundred rounds with this thing in the past, this is a new problem.

I wish I'd taken a shot of the blade bent right out of shape and setting fire to the ply with the focus on the "V" of the front edge of the adaptor pointing at exactly the right spot. Honestly didn't think that anyone would need that to be convinced I'd just not done it wrong.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I'm just trying to go through the process of eliminating potential problems. It's not meant to accuse you of not using it properly.

You asked what difference the pin location would make, so I tried to explain.

Sorry if it came across as offensive or accusatory.

Shane

 

[Wuffles]

Understood. Unfortunately when I wrote "Actually, in response to "The pin should be on the same side as the saw. If it was on the wrong side, that is likely the cause of your problems." I fail to see how that would cause the obvious burnout in my original photo?" I was referring to the burnout, not the fact that it would do an oval.

I'll take a photo of the cutout, you can see how far out it was when I did the corrective cut the other way, it was only about 3mm or so, any more and the blade would have locked up as it was still trying to steer it the correct way.

 

[Wuffles]

Here you go. The return cut was perfect. Same blade too.

[attachthumb=#]

 

[Wuffles]

You have to ignore the pencil line, that's a red herring. Sorry.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

I appreciate the responses, but it's not that. I've cut well over a hundred rounds with this thing in the past, this is a new problem.

It's actually a simple problem. The baseplate is just slightly skewed to the saw. That's why you haven't noticed it in the past, and why right now it is only in one direction.

Place the saw flat on a worktable. Loosen the clamping lever for the baseplate. Give the saw a very, very minor bias counterclockwise as you retighten the clamping lever. (Or counterclockwise if I have misinterpreted your pictures.)

 

[Wuffles]

Brilliant. I'll give it a go next time I'm in the workshop and report back.

I tend not to keep that base on the saw as it's used for other things too, so I guess it's easy to misalign if it's being taken off and on again frequently, didn't even occur to me that it's possible to do that.