Carvex blade length

DanielOB

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Joined
Jul 11, 2014
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A blade length = 19 mm + stock thickness + feed
19 mm is unused length of a blade
Blade length is top toot to bottom tooth length
Feed is vertical movement in one direction on the blade

Is this correct?

Do a blade, in its upper position, must be still below the stock?
 
DanielOB said:
A blade length = 19 mm + stock thickness + feed
19 mm is unused length of a blade
Blade length is top toot to bottom tooth length
Feed is vertical movement in one direction on the blade

Is this correct?

Do a blade, in its upper position, must be still below the stock?

The only problem with this is that you don't necessarily need to account for the stroke (what you call "feed") in the blade length determination. As long as the blase is long enough to exit the wood on the down stroke, it doesn't matter that doesn't exit the wood on the up-stroke.

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" it doesn't matter that doesn't exit the wood on the up-stroke. "

A blade length (min) = 19 mm + stock thickness

thank you
 
Cochese said:
I get a bad feeling that he doesn't understand what you are trying to say.

Like, broken-wrist-kickback bad.

Actually, I believe he does understand, based on his reply. It is permissible for the blade to retract all the way inside the cut on the up-stroke as long as it is still long enough to stick past the workpiece on the down-stroke.

Yes, if you are over-feeding, the saw can jump upward on the down stroke, but at a normal feed rate it will cut properly.
 
I have my reservations about the advice that the blade in the full retract position doesn't need to extend below the bottom of the piece being cut.

If the Carvex was to tilt backward even slightly on th upstroke, the downstroke could cause the tip of the blade to slam into the front of the cut causing the Carvex to jump out of the cut.

I want at least an inch of blade to extend past the bottom of the wood in the full retract position.
 
The blade doesn't cut on the down-stroke, especially when you have pendulum motion active. If you tilt your saw backward enough for the blade to strike the leading edge of the cut, it is going to jump regardless whether the tip of the blade is inside the wood or not. What is critical is whether the blade is long enough to pass all the way through the workpiece on the down-stroke. (Some woodworkers on the forum have stated that they do make blind-depth cuts, but I strongly discourage that.)

The only way it can be a problem is if you are advancing the saw forward so rapidly that the leading edge is not vertical. This is virtually impossible to do unless you are cutting butter.  [big grin]

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