Carvex Circle Cutter Question

[Jmacpherson]

I know the user manual says you must not use the circle cutting attachment with Carvex in anything thicker than 20mm.
However what could you push that up to in solid hardwoods like Oak and Walnut, would 25-30mm still be acceptable with either the 18v or 240v Carvex model?

The application would be for round cheese boards.

I have a Trion but in order to actually see the line I have to remove the splinter guard and dust guard which defeats the purpose of having a Festool jigsaw.
At a recent Festool demo day I saw the Carvex in action with both the splinter guard and dust guard in place and the line was visible at all times.
However if it isn't going to handle the application it isn't worth considering.
The Trion guide looks rather basic and I haven't considered it based on the whole line following issue.

The other problem is by using my Makita 18v router and circle guide I'm doing multiple cuts as one should but I find that I'm getting indentations or "marks" randomly in the wood on the edge. Might just be the wood itself, my routing technique or I'm leaning towards the multiple depth plunging.
I'm hoping the jigsaw blade would solve some of this but it might not.
The current guide also leaves a round mark on the wood where its touching the wood. I'm assuming the Festool guide would not.

 

[peter halle]

Honestly I wouldn’t recommend the Carvex for what you are attempting to do.  I know that doesn’t answer your question but i am just being honest.

If I were in your situation I would make a pattern circle for each size of finished circles you wanted to make using your router and trammel and then trace those on your workpieces, cut roughly to size using your Trion and then finish off with template mounted with double sided tape and pattern router bit with top bearing.

I know it sounds like many steps, but done in a production mode it shouldn’t E so bad.

Peter

 

[rst]

I'v made lots of diameters in wood and plastic over the years.  The random marks are typical in the plunge and also if taking too large a cut.  I solve this using different size router guides so that I can take a very small finishing cut.  Or you do what I did and buy a Shaper which will make any size diameter with the built in software...granted this is not the most economical solution but not an extravagant expense compared to my Festool collection. 
Another solution is to make your diameter just over size with your jigsaw or router then attach it to a smaller diameter center pinned spaced from a stationary sander and spin your piece to the finished radius.

 

[Jmacpherson]

Honestly I wouldn’t recommend the Carvex for what you are attempting to do.  I know that doesn’t answer your question but i am just being honest.

If I were in your situation I would make a pattern circle for each size of finished circles you wanted to make using your router and trammel and then trace those on your workpieces, cut roughly to size using your Trion and then finish off with template mounted with double sided tape and pattern router bit with top bearing.

I know it sounds like many steps, but done in a production mode it shouldn’t E so bad.

Peter

Thanks Peter, it actually helps a lot.

 

[Jmacpherson]

Another solution is to make your diameter just over size with your jigsaw or router then attach it to a smaller diameter center pinned spaced from a stationary sander and spin your piece to the finished radius.

Thanks for the suggestion never thought of the sander router

 

[Cheese]

If you have a band saw you can make or purchase a circle cutting adapter. I made an adapter from some ply and a steel dowel pin.

Here's a Carter circle cutting jig.
https://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/accuright

 

[jarbroen]

I had to recently make 20 or so holes for a set of speaker cabinets I'm building.  Some of those holes include a recess for the speaker flange.
I did a bunch of research before going with a method for cutting the holes.  Years ago I made speaker boxes and was only armed with a crappy jigsaw - that was not fun.

Now I have a Carvex and a couple different routers.  The Carvex sounding problematic cutting holes.
What I ended up getting was the Jasper circle cutting jig.  I bought the 200.  They have all sorts of sizes - I believe up to 54".
I gotta say, what a difference it makes!  Other than a couple of goofs on my end - like not locking the depth - I came out with precise holes and they were super easy to cut.  Definitely took multiple passes per hole - I was cutting 12mm and 18mm BB ply.

The Jasper doesn't fit Festool routers.  However, it worked really well with my Makita palm router.  Made it super easy to maneuver as well.
I picked up the jig from Woodcraft($40 or so) after I made the mistake of buying the 'made in China' version from Amazon.  The Amazon version was missing the centering guide.  Good thing returns are easy.

 

[Jmacpherson]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] - unfortunately I don't have a bandsaw

[member=65755]jarbroen[/member] - thanks for the Jasper guide solution, will look into it. I've been looking at the Milescraft option and looks like Rockler also make something.

 

[jarbroen]

No worries.  I know how many choices are out there and the difficulty in finding the right one for your situation.
I looked at the Rockler ones.  What I didn't like about the rockler is that you have to get a tape measure out and do a calculation for each hole.  I think the Milescraft is similar, in that it's infinitely variable but you have to do some measuring to set the guide.

The Jasper one has hole sizes marked in 1/16" increments and using a 1/4" bit the holes are spot on.  I like helper items that avoid adding one more complication to a project.
You do need to drill a 1/8" hole for the pivot pin.  You could drill that on the back of your cutting board material.  Or you could double sided tape a sacrificial piece on top of your cutting board.