Carvex Guide Rail

Staniam

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Joined
Nov 3, 2014
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725
Hey guys,

    I just recently picked up a Festool guide rail for my Carvex PSC 420 EB and wasted no time putting it to work. I cannot get this system to cut a straight line at all.

    I've gotta be missing something right? I don't care if I look like a "nube" I just wanna be able to cut a straight line with the guide base and guide rail. Whenever I set it all up and start to cut, the Carvex stops after 6 inches or so and by that time it's started to pull away from my cut line.

      Any tips?
 

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I'm not at home right now so I can't be 100% sure but it should be the S 75/4 FS blades. I looked up the right blades for straight cutting in the Festool buyers guide.
 
I'm sure. I was making a lot of other cuts free hand and they were all straight.
 
Perhaps you could try removing the splinterguard so it allows for slightly more lateral movement of the blade?
 
I can try that, I'll have to flip the wood upside down so I don't get splintering but that seems like a good idea.

One thing I did notice right away was that the guide base seems to have a little bit of play or wobble when its on the rail. With the TS saws you can adjust and tighten the saw to the base but obviously you can't do that with the Carvex. Do any of you Carvex guide rail users have a "wobble" issue?
 
Why not use the guide rail base 497 303 and it looks to me that your using the backside of the rail as your straight edge. The saw must be wandering off that edge.
 
land_kel said:
Why not use the guide rail base 497 303 and it looks to me that your using the backside of the rail as your straight edge. The saw must be wandering off that edge.

I am using the guide rail base. I just took a picture of the cut but I am using the guide rail base attachment for the Carvex.
 
waho6o9 said:
Then the rail moved, I think?

Its possible, though I used three clamps for good measure on the cut pictured. The Festool Quick Clamp was inserted underneath in the groove, a Milwaukee 4" clamp at the top right and an Irwin clamp at the top left.

Should I be using a different orbital setting? I was set at #1 for this cut.
 
Are you cutting 3/4" ply?

And have you set the blade tension with the allen wrench to keep the guides close to the blade?

Finally, have you tried a square on the blade to make sure that it is not bent to one side with no load on it?

Sorry for the questions but just trying to think through what might be happening.

neil
 
neilc said:
Are you cutting 3/4" ply?

And have you set the blade tension with the allen wrench to keep the guides close to the blade?

Finally, have you tried a square on the blade to make sure that it is not bent to one side with no load on it?

Sorry for the questions but just trying to think through what might be happening.

neil

I am cutting 3/4" ply, yes.

I set the tension the way the manual says to and the way all the youtube videos say to do it. Tighten until you can't anymore then loosen 1/4 turn.

As far as the blade goes, I haven't done that. When I started cutting I did use a new blade so I wouldn't imagine it not being straight but that's another good idea, thank you.

And please, feel free to ask away. I just wanna be able to use my toys right.
 
Have you tried a faster speed. I know they say to put it on speed 3 for a lot of things. Also, were you pushing the saw hard?
 
Throwback7r said:
Have you tried a faster speed. I know they say to put it on speed 3 for a lot of things. Also, were you pushing the saw hard?

I always have the saw on the "A" setting which as I understand it, makes the motor work automatically according to the toughness of the material. Or it works as hard as it needs to in order to make a good cut.

Now when you say speed, do you mean the variable speed knob at the back of the saw or are you talking about the orbital/pendulum setting near the power switch? If you're talking about the orbital/pendulum setting, I have it at 1 on a scale from 0-1-2-3.

I will try setting 3. Another good idea.
 
If you want to check for rail movement make a mark at each end and in the middle after you get it clamped down. If it is moving it will be off at least one of the marks.

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
If you want to check for rail movement make a mark at each end and in the middle after you get it clamped down. If it is moving it will be off at least one of the marks.

Seth

I'll try that too.
 
I ment orbital/pendulum speed or aggression of the cut. 1 does not remove a lot of material. I cut counter tops with formica and full 1.5 inch with my Carvex and it keeps as straight of a line as I need.
 
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