Carvex Guide Rail

[Grasshopper]

I thought I'd report that I just bought the Carvex guide rail base and made some test cuts.

It does a good job gliding smooth and cutting straight.  The one issue i had that I found a solution I thought I'd share.

Unlike the track saw, the jigsaw blade is far from the kerf-line, making it hard to line up to where you want to make a cut.

On my first pass, I tried to eyeball a cut along a drawn line (which I lined up the blade initially on the start of the line).  The issue was I had the rail at a slight angle and the cut moved away from my line due to the rail placement.  Unlike the router guide, you cannot really easily do a "dry-run" as the blade gets in the way.

So I took some 1/4" think scrap and butted it up against the guide rail, and made a rip cut with the carvex.  Now I have a setup block that I can set next to the guide rail lining both up with whatever cut line I want to make.  The width of this block  is matched perfectly to the kerf line with my current carved and blade.

2nd test cut using the setup block along my line, to get the rail placed very quickly, clamped the rail down, moved the setup block out of the way, and made the cut perfectly.

This worked so well, that I thought I'd share.  I think I will do something similar for the router as well to line that up faster with the rail.

 

[wow]

I thought I'd report that I just bought the Carvex guide rail base and made some test cuts.

It does a good job gliding smooth and cutting straight.  The one issue i had that I found a solution I thought I'd share.

Unlike the track saw, the jigsaw blade is far from the kerf-line, making it hard to line up to where you want to make a cut.

On my first pass, I tried to eyeball a cut along a drawn line (which I lined up the blade initially on the start of the line).  The issue was I had the rail at a slight angle and the cut moved away from my line due to the rail placement.  Unlike the router guide, you cannot really easily do a "dry-run" as the blade gets in the way.

So I took some 1/4" think scrap and butted it up against the guide rail, and made a rip cut with the carvex.  Now I have a setup block that I can set next to the guide rail lining both up with whatever cut line I want to make.  The width of this block  is matched perfectly to the kerf line with my current carved and blade.

2nd test cut using the setup block along my line, to get the rail placed very quickly, clamped the rail down, moved the setup block out of the way, and made the cut perfectly.

This worked so well, that I thought I'd share.  I think I will do something similar for the router as well to line that up faster with the rail.

Got any pictures of the setup? I *think* I know what you did, but pictures would make it clearer...

 

[Grasshopper]

Here are some "reenactment" photos (excuse the blurry, they were shot one handed while i stabilized the saw).

The first shot is an example of a drawn line for a toe-kick.
[attachimg=3]

The second shot shows how I line up the rail using the spacer block I made which takes into account the blade location-
[attachimg=1]

The 3rd shot shows the spacer removed (sitting on the rail, nicknamed the "Jig-Jig") and the saw on the guide rail with the blade positioned perfectly on the line.
[attachimg=2]

Hope that helps.

I thought I'd report that I just bought the Carvex guide rail base and made some test cuts.

It does a good job gliding smooth and cutting straight.  The one issue i had that I found a solution I thought I'd share.

Unlike the track saw, the jigsaw blade is far from the kerf-line, making it hard to line up to where you want to make a cut.

On my first pass, I tried to eyeball a cut along a drawn line (which I lined up the blade initially on the start of the line).  The issue was I had the rail at a slight angle and the cut moved away from my line due to the rail placement.  Unlike the router guide, you cannot really easily do a "dry-run" as the blade gets in the way.

So I took some 1/4" think scrap and butted it up against the guide rail, and made a rip cut with the carvex.  Now I have a setup block that I can set next to the guide rail lining both up with whatever cut line I want to make.  The width of this block  is matched perfectly to the kerf line with my current carved and blade.

2nd test cut using the setup block along my line, to get the rail placed very quickly, clamped the rail down, moved the setup block out of the way, and made the cut perfectly.

This worked so well, that I thought I'd share.  I think I will do something similar for the router as well to line that up faster with the rail.

Got any pictures of the setup? I *think* I know what you did, but pictures would make it clearer...

 

[Staniam]

Very interesting jig there. I'll make one right now and put it to the test. I had come tell forgotten I made this thread ever since I got the TS55. Now I'm off to put everyone's advice to the test.

Seems like more people have had similar issues so hopefully this continues with more tips and advice.

 

[mike_aa]

That's an excellent idea, Grasshopper.  Thanks for posting the photos.

Mike A.

 

[Grasshopper]

Sure thing!

The "jig-jig"  ;D

That's an excellent idea, Grasshopper.  Thanks for posting the photos.

Mike A.