Carvex Jigsaws - Post your questions here!

[Kodi Crescent]

This is sort of hinted at throughout this thread, but I want to ask this explicitly.

Is the trigger control on the D-handle Carvex a variable speed control, or an on/off control?
(As compared to the on/off control of the barrel grip Carvex)

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

This is sort of hinted at throughout this thread, but I want to ask this explicitly.

Is the trigger control on the D-handle Carvex a variable speed control, or an on/off control?
(As compared to the on/off control of the barrel grip Carvex)

Kodi, it's sort of both.  [huh]

The D-handle models have a toggle on/off switch on the side. Toggle one of these switches once and the saw runs until it's toggled again. Alternatively, you can use the trigger on the D-handle itself as a variable speed trigger.

Hope that makes sense. If not, we'll shoot a little more video of it.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

It makes sense, but I'm puzzled as to why you wouldn't just have a hold switch for the trigger?
What happens if you squeeze the trigger while the on switch is toggled?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

It makes sense, but I'm puzzled as to why you wouldn't just have a hold switch for the trigger?
What happens if you squeeze the trigger while the on switch is toggled?

There's also a trigger lock for the trigger on the handle. Sorry I didn't mention that.

Great question about what happens. Presumably the trigger on the handle would override the toggle on/off switch. Honestly, I've not tried it. I usually use the barrel grip. I'll try it out tomorrow, time permitting and post back to confirm my suspicions.

 

[Arthouse Joinery]

Got mine the other day  ;D Couldn't believe how light it is! Strobes are awesome, accessories are awesome, cut is easy to see, it's a D handle - but having the 2 extra switches on the sides make it really comfortable to hold and cut with the saw upside down. Happy customer  8)

 

[Mr Handyman]

I have a question regarding the use with the guide rail. When I insert the base on the guide rail, there is some play. As a consequence, I have to be very careful if I want to make a straight line. Am I the only one in this situation (a question for Shane or the other European users indeed) ? Is it a normal design (to avoid to block the blade) ? Why Festool did not put two screws like on the OF 1010 guide rail base which allows to adjust the play?

This is something I have been struggling with as well. At first I put the adapter base over the usual plunge saw track, but soon realised what has been said here already, that the saw then would cut the guide rail in two. However, even when applied to the right part of the guide rail there is a play that is problematic, and that would have to be addressed in the same way as on the guide rail adapters for the OF1010 and OF2200. What is even more confusing is that there seems to be a space made for some sort of insert there, you who own it can easily see what I mean.

What is the solution to this problem? 

Otherwise the saw is great!

 

[fregamin]

Why can I not cut material thicker than 20mm with the Guide rail?  This is the main reason I bought the Carvex. [unsure]

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Why can I not cut material thicker than 20mm with the Guide rail?  This is the main reason I bought the Carvex. [unsure]

For long straight cuts in thicker materials, the TS tracksaw is the better solution. The option to use the jigsaw with the guide rail is for thinner materials.

 

[fregamin]

My material is 73mm. The TS55 EQ only goes to 55mm.  Can a straight line be cut with the Carvex handheld, or should I cut from both sides with the TS 55?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

My material is 73mm. The TS55 EQ only goes to 55mm.  Can a straight line be cut with the Carvex handheld, or should I cut from both sides with the TS 55?

Yes, I think cutting from each side with your TS 55 would be a better solution and give you better results.

 

[fregamin]

Thank you so much.  I'll give it a try.

 

[Paul G]

Why can I not cut material thicker than 20mm with the Guide rail?  This is the main reason I bought the Carvex. [unsure]

For long straight cuts in thicker materials, the TS tracksaw is the better solution. The option to use the jigsaw with the guide rail is for thinner materials.

Why?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Paul, trying to cut thicker materials with the jigsaw attached to the rail may not yield the best results. Like I recommended, there are better tools for those types of cuts: the TS saw, or a bandsaw for stock too thick for the TS.

 

[semenza]

Hi fremagin,

Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

      I agree that the TS55 cutting from both sides will give you a better cut.  Transfer your mark or align the rail using a square lined up with the kerf on the first side.  If you have a little extra room at the start end of the cut you can test a bit to check alignment before committing to the full length. Also I assume you are rip cutting solid wood?  What blade do you have on the saw?

Seth

 

[bkharman]

If the stock is short enough and you have an MFT or similar, put a stop on your fence and flip it under the rail. I have done this a few times as I only have a TS 55 (no 75... Yet )

I just got the Carvex and would be hesitant cutting a big block like that anyways... Too much potential for the blade drifting or deflecting.

 

[Paul G]

Paul, trying to cut thicker materials with the jigsaw attached to the rail may not yield the best results. Like I recommended, there are better tools for those types of cuts: the TS saw, or a bandsaw for stock too thick for the TS.

Naturally the blade motion of a jigsaw is going to leave a more pronounced cut mark, is that what you are talking about or are we talking about out of square/deflection issues? What best results issues are you specifically addressing?

 

[Paul G]

If the stock is short enough and you have an MFT or similar, put a stop on your fence and flip it under the rail. I have done this a few times as I only have a TS 55 (no 75... Yet )

I just got the Carvex and would be hesitant cutting a big block like that anyways... Too much potential for the blade drifting or deflecting.

Carvex is supposed to have addressed deflection issues, which for me so far has been successful cutting 1.5" thick lumber freehand and it's kept good square

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Blade deflection is not the issue. In material that thick, there may be binding or other issues. It's just the wrong solution for the task. If you want to try it anyway, go for it.  [smile] I have given our recommendation on the matter.

 

[mouppe]

Am I missing something?

Use the other side of the guide rail as a straight edge and run the jig-saw freely along that using the regular base.