Cedar/Glulam by Me

[embarassed] Hahah lol it wasn't my plan to inflict you with this gun [poke] [big grin], but it is really fun to work with and
it makes your workflow much faster [cool]. I also heard today we have a GX 120-ME Gas system laying around
on the jobsite. This might be a better choise for you?! A bit less expensive and still really powerfull!

René
 
 
Rene89 said:
[embarassed] Hahah lol it wasn't my plan to inflict you with this gun [poke] [big grin], but it is really fun to work with and
it makes your workflow much faster [cool]. I also heard today we have a GX 120-ME Gas system laying around
on the jobsite. This might be a better choise for you?! A bit less expensive and still really powerfull!

René
   
Click to expand...

i have 1 and only suited for metal studding etc
 
Rene89 said:
[embarassed] Hahah lol it wasn't my plan to inflict you with this gun [poke] [big grin], but it is really fun to work with and
it makes your workflow much faster [cool]. I also heard today we have a GX 120-ME Gas system laying around
on the jobsite. This might be a better choise for you?! A bit less expensive and still really powerfull!

René
   
Click to expand...

Like Dean said the GX I did look at but the DX is more suited for me cost dont come into it  [tongue]  but what it can do does and the DX can do a lot more than the GX.

If I was to get one it will be the DX  but Dean has been telling me the Spit is better but I like the Hilti appearance  [tongue]

JMB
 
Hello!

Well kinda annoying but I had to do it to get the job moving forward!   The builder was using a crappy sander!  Getting covered in dust and everything! Had a dust mask and goggles and it was taking him ages!

Well I let him use my Rotex150 and CT22
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AND Look what arrived to day on site after he used my Rotex150 and CT22!   A brand New CTL26 and the Rotex150 should of been with it but the delivery company messed up so the Rotex150 will be on site 2 moro morning.
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Using my MFS and OF2200 I  routered out notches for the Rafters to slot into!   I still need to clean them up a little on the ridge but fingers crossed they should slot in and sit onto the ridge and wall plate 2 moro!

I used my TS75 to cut the rafters but they are 90mm thick so needed finishing off with hand saw [mad]

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Would the Protool Sword saw not be the tool for those rafters ?  You have the Sword saw don't you.
 
woodguy7 said:
Would the Protool Sword saw not be the tool for those rafters ?  You have the Sword saw don't you.
Click to expand...

Yeah but its to rough for this kind of work I think.  Its good for a normal roof but not this one.    Plus the builders wont let me use it as they think its to rough of a tool to use for this job.

JMB
 
I had these photos on my SLR  instead of my normal compact as my compact is not a wide viewing camera  thought my SLR would have more viewing angle but it aint da much better really.  

So I had a look at a wide viewing lense for my camera they are £400-600   [eek] so best shots I could get with the equipment I have.     The pictures dont really justify it really it looks very small on the pictures but in person it feels alot larger!    The rafters are 600mm apart but it dont look like it on the pictures.

Any way I lost my cable for the camera I found another one so I am now able to upload some pics from the camera!  

Im back on the job few days this week and then I wont be back on it again for couple weeks or more!   [unsure] The job is dragging on a little!  Still so much 2 do!

Oh well!

Here are pictures!

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What's the plan when the rafters drop at the ridge beam from lack of bearing support and load transfer?
Seriously.
 
I gotta agree with Ken.  Should there not be more of a plumb cut at the top ?  They look too pointy.
It all looks pretty though  [smile]
 
haahaaaa! Comedy Woodguy and Ken come on!  you must know how you do a roof!

Clearly they are not the end of the rafter please dont tell me da is what you thought.

The rafters are birds mouthed onto that beam ontop!  Thats a flat ceiling I have put in which goes ontop of the Beam.   As it would be a dust collector if I had left it open and a fly spot.

JMB
 
Here you go woodguy and Ken a picture I took with my phone how I fixed the cedar from above to show no fixing from below the  builder didnt want any fixings!  But wouldnt let me rebate the rafters so this was the only other option.    I also didn't want to rebate the rafters to be fair as it would been a little awkward as well as reducing the thickness of the rafters across its width which I didnt think was a good idea with them being 4.8 meter span from bird mouth to birds mouth

The straps are just to butt the cedar up  to not structual as the roof will hold its self with out straps so thats why you can see no bolts.

As you can see der is alot more above the beam than just a thin point lol

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JMB
 
Why didn't you post that picture at the same time ya nugget  [tongue]

That cedar looks nice though eh.  What treatment going on it ?
 
woodguy7 said:
Why didn't you post that picture at the same time ya nugget  [tongue]

That cedar looks nice though eh.  What treatment going on it ?
Click to expand...

lol!  

Cus it was of my mobile and didnt think it would of been of much interest to post on here!   Well I thought you professional joiners would of know!    If I had done what you two thought I done it would mean der would be a flat roof at the top no?

Any way silly billies!   It was treated before it was fixed in place with this stuff.  I think this is the stuff ill have to check 2 moro
(EDITED)  That was not the stuff it was on the site not sure which one it is ill have to check I linked below to where it was but im sure it aint der any more non of them look familiar properly stopped selling it cus its crap!
http://www.silvatimber.co.uk/wood-care/finish-protect.html

In my opinion its CRAP I feel like it has not done anything to the cedar to protect it it just looks like dirty water it does not have a strong smell to it so it smells weak once its dried you can not tell if its had a coat or not!  Even after second coat you can not tell!  One of the lads spilt tea on couple boards and it took some sanding out as it had soaked in so in my opinion it does NOTHING    Also I left a piece of Cedar out side in the rain which had been treated and it had cupped slightly.    So for the cedar for out side im going to suggest to use something else i think

JMB
 
Yeah you nugget!  [big grin]  How was I supposed to know from those pictures and on my iphone?  So how are you finishing off the peak along the length of the ridge, and don't tell me thatch.  [tongue]
 
Those are sweet..  Imagine at the end of the day how much crap is in them  [eek].
 
Bringing back an old post back to life again  [big grin]

Just thought I would post some updated pictures of the job!   I layed the oak flooring which is covered up with hardboard at the moment.  I went last friday to fit the skirting ready for the stairs!  

Dont you love how builders listen to you when you ask them to do it how you want and more!

I asked if they could keep the plasterboard up by at least 1inch an half easy for me to lay the oak flooring and to allow for expansion!  
and they did just that! Also I wanted 2x1 fixing so they allowed me to fix 2x1 all the way around the room along the bottom before the foam back plasterboards where dapped to it!  

1. This was to make sure the walls stayed straight along the skirting area
2. Better fixing for me with my pin gun!

I also asked if they could NOT paint the walls lower than the skirting I said they could go 10mm past the skirting thats it!  This is so when I stick the skirting to the wall it has better bond.
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Some pictures of the facia I did a bit ago now the scaffold is finally down.

Can any one see the joints?    [tongue] [tongue]  Good match hey?  The bottom part of the facia with the curve was only 300 wide and needed to be a total of 550 so  PART of the curve is in the main bit and the rest of the curve carries onto the jointed piece using the domino! 

Couldnt get a piece of cedar that wide to get the full curve in one go so got the widest they had and started the curve in that piece because this avoids the small flap you get one the curve when it meets the straight section.

All corners are mitred!
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